What do you lift your car with?
03-06-02, 09:54 AM
#26
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Originally posted by mar3
---->pele, go with Autolifters...they're $2200 for the lift that'll cover most weights short of a duallie long cab....stupid FirstTexas...
---->pele, go with Autolifters...they're $2200 for the lift that'll cover most weights short of a duallie long cab....stupid FirstTexas...
03-06-02, 09:54 AM
#27
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Originally posted by treceb
That is my home.
That is my home.
You live at the garage, as in, place of business? Or you have a garage bay with a lift at your home? I'm still unclear,but if you've got a lift at home, I'm intensely, insanely jealous!
03-06-02, 10:23 AM
#28
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i lift the back with a floorjack(el cheapo $30 at autozone) in the center of the diff. then put jack stands just forward of the lower suspension links. for the front, i drive the car onto a 2x4 laid flat. this gives me just enough clearance to get the floor jack under the center of the crossmember. once in the air, i put a jackstand on each end of the crossmember where the metal is still flat on the bottom. i've also seen drive on ramps that are not quite as steep and should work for our lower cars.
03-06-02, 11:10 AM
#29
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Originally posted by mar3
You live at the garage, as in, place of business? Or you have a garage bay with a lift at your home? I'm still unclear,but if you've got a lift at home, I'm intensely, insanely jealous!
You live at the garage, as in, place of business? Or you have a garage bay with a lift at your home? I'm still unclear,but if you've got a lift at home, I'm intensely, insanely jealous!
Yes, we have a 2 oversized car garage at home. And one of them has a lift.
My problem is that my car sits too low, so ive got jack it up the rear about 6 inches so the arms of the lift fit underneath.
03-06-02, 03:40 PM
#32
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Autolifters? What are those?
I was thinking more along the lines of:
For those of you with low garage ceilings, there are floor plate style lifts that do not reach over 10 feet high. They still mount to the floor, and are not the in ground style... The cables and hydraulic lines just run under a hump on the ground rather than over the vehicle. WIth a 10 foot ceiling, it should lift the car high enough for you to walk under while ducking a bit... Depends on what car you're lifting... I'm judging on the RX-7.. not a minivan or something.
I was thinking more along the lines of:
For those of you with low garage ceilings, there are floor plate style lifts that do not reach over 10 feet high. They still mount to the floor, and are not the in ground style... The cables and hydraulic lines just run under a hump on the ground rather than over the vehicle. WIth a 10 foot ceiling, it should lift the car high enough for you to walk under while ducking a bit... Depends on what car you're lifting... I'm judging on the RX-7.. not a minivan or something.
Last edited by Pele; 03-06-02 at 03:47 PM.
03-06-02, 09:20 PM
#33
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The Autolifter is just like that but it's braced so you don't need the overhead bar connector like the one in your photo. The posts are 8' high and it is an asymetrical lift. The concrete has to bear something like 3000 lbs/sq.in., but guess what? That is the standard in residental development anyway, at least here in the Metroplex...you guys are getting my blood boiling again as I think of all the stupid things that happened to rob me of my lift! Stupid, stupid FirstTexas dunces!
03-06-02, 10:30 PM
#34
Anytime baby!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by mar3
The concrete has to bear something like 3000 lbs/sq.in., but guess what? That is the standard in residental development anyway, at least here in the Metroplex...
The concrete has to bear something like 3000 lbs/sq.in., but guess what? That is the standard in residental development anyway, at least here in the Metroplex...
Just bustin your *****-(I'm a structural engineer).
Right on.
03-07-02, 12:13 AM
#35
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brownmound, you're a structural engineer? Cool, I'm an Architect (student). I was actually thinking the same thing about the footing. Most of the garage floors around here are on the el-cheapo side...
03-07-02, 01:19 AM
#36
Anytime baby!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by smnc
brownmound, you're a structural engineer? Cool, I'm an Architect (student). I was actually thinking the same thing about the footing. Most of the garage floors around here are on the el-cheapo side...
brownmound, you're a structural engineer? Cool, I'm an Architect (student). I was actually thinking the same thing about the footing. Most of the garage floors around here are on the el-cheapo side...
right on.
03-07-02, 07:09 AM
#37
Old [Sch|F]ool
structural engineers? architects? forget all that, what we need is a grammaticist...
"With what do you lift your car?"
(hee hee, hey i'm bored and waiting for my roommate to come home so he can move his car out of the driveway so i can leave)
"With what do you lift your car?"
(hee hee, hey i'm bored and waiting for my roommate to come home so he can move his car out of the driveway so i can leave)
03-07-02, 08:52 AM
#38
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Originally posted by brownmound
Yeah, 3000 psi is an average for concrete compressive strength. However I would be a bit weary of mounting a lift on a 4 1/2" (typical) garage slab.
Yeah, 3000 psi is an average for concrete compressive strength. However I would be a bit weary of mounting a lift on a 4 1/2" (typical) garage slab.
Just bustin your *****-(I'm a structural engineer).
No problem at all, any wise person knows you can't know it all, so it's much better to listen sometimes instead of yappin' all the time. You can learn from others easier and gain the benefit of their life experiences...
03-07-02, 10:59 PM
#39
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Originally posted by brownmound
Yeah, 3000 psi is an average for concrete compressive strength. However I would be a bit weary of mounting a lift on a 4 1/2" (typical) garage slab. Unless your lift supports happen to fall along a grade beam, you could be in for something we call "punch through." Of course if you are rock you are probably okay, but I would prefer to sawcut out the slab and dowel in a spread footing.
Just bustin your *****-(I'm a structural engineer).
Right on.
Yeah, 3000 psi is an average for concrete compressive strength. However I would be a bit weary of mounting a lift on a 4 1/2" (typical) garage slab. Unless your lift supports happen to fall along a grade beam, you could be in for something we call "punch through." Of course if you are rock you are probably okay, but I would prefer to sawcut out the slab and dowel in a spread footing.
Just bustin your *****-(I'm a structural engineer).
Right on.
What do I need to mount a two post lift. (Not the Auto Lifter... A garage duty 7000-9000 Pound lift.) to a floor?
I always thought they were held down with Drop in anchors. The really big kind that take 3/4 or 1 inch bolts.
Of course, theres only two ways I know of to mount something to a cement surface. Hammer drill and use drop in anchors or use a nail gun like a Hilti or something.
Having been an electrician, I've done both of these and therefore know that they are effective methods for holding some things to cement.. but not automotive lifts.
Looking at the ones in the shop, all I see is some threaded rod sticking up and a nut and washer holding the base of the lift. Some are welded (Hardware to the base) if that makes a difference.
I plan on using residential grade garage slabs at a minimum. If/When I build my own house, I'll get a slab poured in at extra thickness.
Last edited by Pele; 03-07-02 at 11:01 PM.
03-08-02, 01:55 AM
#40
Anytime baby!
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Pele
Huh?
What do I need to mount a two post lift. (Not the Auto Lifter... A garage duty 7000-9000 Pound lift.) to a floor?
I always thought they were held down with Drop in anchors. The really big kind that take 3/4 or 1 inch bolts.
Of course, theres only two ways I know of to mount something to a cement surface. Hammer drill and use drop in anchors or use a nail gun like a Hilti or something.
Having been an electrician, I've done both of these and therefore know that they are effective methods for holding some things to cement.. but not automotive lifts.
Looking at the ones in the shop, all I see is some threaded rod sticking up and a nut and washer holding the base of the lift. Some are welded (Hardware to the base) if that makes a difference.
I plan on using residential grade garage slabs at a minimum. If/When I build my own house, I'll get a slab poured in at extra thickness.
Huh?
What do I need to mount a two post lift. (Not the Auto Lifter... A garage duty 7000-9000 Pound lift.) to a floor?
I always thought they were held down with Drop in anchors. The really big kind that take 3/4 or 1 inch bolts.
Of course, theres only two ways I know of to mount something to a cement surface. Hammer drill and use drop in anchors or use a nail gun like a Hilti or something.
Having been an electrician, I've done both of these and therefore know that they are effective methods for holding some things to cement.. but not automotive lifts.
Looking at the ones in the shop, all I see is some threaded rod sticking up and a nut and washer holding the base of the lift. Some are welded (Hardware to the base) if that makes a difference.
I plan on using residential grade garage slabs at a minimum. If/When I build my own house, I'll get a slab poured in at extra thickness.
Ok. then, you want to mout a 9000 lb lift. so lets say 4500 lbs per lift column. Say the lift columns are TS 5x5 or some ****. Welded to a base plate thats say 10x10 or 12x12 with four anchor bolts. So say a compressive force of 45 psi. That aint ****. So you got nothing to worry about.
Or do you? That lift probably ain't gonna crush the concrete, though you might get a shear failure. But say the weight is a bit uneven on the lift, then you got some uplift force on you anchor bolts. if you only got 4 1/2" of concrete below, you could have a pull out failure of the bolt. If it was me, and i was putting a lift into an existing slab, I would probably go ahead and saw cut a 2'x2' square out of the slab and drop in a footing about 2' deep or so. Of course, I'm just shootin from the hip, and of course, I'm drunk. But that should work, and hell, a 4 1/2" slab with 3/4" anchor bolts epoxied in might work as well, in practice. But why risk it. I'm sure the lift manufactures have all the info you need for putting in these bitches. And if you are bulding, just run a grade beam (a 1'x2' deep reinforcing beam below grade) right under the lift so you got plenty to anchor to.
Hire a goddamn structural engineer. We'll do that **** for like $500 or some ****. if not for you car, then for the economy.
Right on.
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