Well looks like project gold turd is gonna change direction $80 motor compression vid
#1
Well looks like project gold turd is gonna change direction $80 motor compression vid
I went to the local Upull it yard the other day. Anytime they get a 7. I rape that sucker! Heres the video of the motor compression checks. This is no ATF done yet or cleaned up. Total dry compression check. Cars been sitting almost a year. Sorry for shaky camera skills. Doing compression checks one handed.. LOL
ROTOR 1:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
ROTOR 2:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
Car was a 1987 GXL with 78K miles. And a receipt for a new Mazda clutch just 3 months before the date the car got smacked according to the yellow marker on the windshield with the date. Also on the receipt new plugs, fuel filter, wires, air filter. I think the total said $800 something bucks.
Paid $89.95 for a complete 13b.. I mean complete, from oil pan to intake/ throttle body etc. AC pump, Power steering etc etc
So I left the junkyard with the entire front cross member complete from sport suspension electric motors, hubs, rotors, rack and pinion, sway bar, all the lines etc etc. Only thing Im missing is the 4 piston calipers. Some A-hole beat me to that. LOL Somebody also got the S4 AFM.
I took the 5 speed transmission, oil cooler, ECU, complete wire harness, instrument cluster, wiper switch, AC logicon, every ECU in the car (body, cruise etc etc), steering column, both coil packs, etc etc. Complete truckload of parts. I even took the rear limited slip independent rear suspension. Total score was $250 give or take a few bucks for tax.
So here I affectionately going to call this 83 gold GS - project Gold Turd. Im going to swap the entire crossmember in there. Its got a decent tight steering box now, but I swap the cross member I don't have to buy Racing Beat expensive stuff. No oil pan, No GSL SE front cover and no $100 motor mount. Going to be weird with a first gen with a 5 x 114.3 bolt pattern, good brakes, and a car that actually steers good. Only thing I would have like if it were a turbo, But my vert runs excellent with the same engine, and that car is WAY heavier than this one...
ROTOR 1:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
ROTOR 2:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
Car was a 1987 GXL with 78K miles. And a receipt for a new Mazda clutch just 3 months before the date the car got smacked according to the yellow marker on the windshield with the date. Also on the receipt new plugs, fuel filter, wires, air filter. I think the total said $800 something bucks.
Paid $89.95 for a complete 13b.. I mean complete, from oil pan to intake/ throttle body etc. AC pump, Power steering etc etc
So I left the junkyard with the entire front cross member complete from sport suspension electric motors, hubs, rotors, rack and pinion, sway bar, all the lines etc etc. Only thing Im missing is the 4 piston calipers. Some A-hole beat me to that. LOL Somebody also got the S4 AFM.
I took the 5 speed transmission, oil cooler, ECU, complete wire harness, instrument cluster, wiper switch, AC logicon, every ECU in the car (body, cruise etc etc), steering column, both coil packs, etc etc. Complete truckload of parts. I even took the rear limited slip independent rear suspension. Total score was $250 give or take a few bucks for tax.
So here I affectionately going to call this 83 gold GS - project Gold Turd. Im going to swap the entire crossmember in there. Its got a decent tight steering box now, but I swap the cross member I don't have to buy Racing Beat expensive stuff. No oil pan, No GSL SE front cover and no $100 motor mount. Going to be weird with a first gen with a 5 x 114.3 bolt pattern, good brakes, and a car that actually steers good. Only thing I would have like if it were a turbo, But my vert runs excellent with the same engine, and that car is WAY heavier than this one...
#2
Now w/ 12A SP
iTrader: (3)
Congrats mike sounds like the beginings of a pretty sweet build. Gysgtfrank has a build similar to this going in the builds section, even kept the cruise. I'll find a link and post back.
EDIT:
Here's the link he did his in a 79',
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=993140
EDIT:
Here's the link he did his in a 79',
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=993140
Last edited by PK_12A; 04-07-13 at 04:45 PM.
#3
Cruise control looks the same. The cable is a lot longer on the 12a.
Once I modify the front sub frame with the spacers and re drill the front. I'll bolt everything up. Struts and all and lift the entire thing up into there just like they did when they built them.
Did he keep the AAS? Curious I might do that. Everybody was warning me about the wiring. Lol I LOVE electrical. I work at Toyota motor manufacturing and they give me all the wiring problems. Thing will be a breeze.
Shame tho. Perfect running / compression 12A coming out.
I'll have that and a crapload of parts for sale soon. With that weber 45 DCOE. A steering box. Several distributors. A few Nikki's.
Moral of the story: don't necessarily walk by an engine cause its a little rusty looking. Could be a good engine and you'll at least get the $80 back in scrap. Not counting all the extra parts you'll have.
Once I modify the front sub frame with the spacers and re drill the front. I'll bolt everything up. Struts and all and lift the entire thing up into there just like they did when they built them.
Did he keep the AAS? Curious I might do that. Everybody was warning me about the wiring. Lol I LOVE electrical. I work at Toyota motor manufacturing and they give me all the wiring problems. Thing will be a breeze.
Shame tho. Perfect running / compression 12A coming out.
I'll have that and a crapload of parts for sale soon. With that weber 45 DCOE. A steering box. Several distributors. A few Nikki's.
Moral of the story: don't necessarily walk by an engine cause its a little rusty looking. Could be a good engine and you'll at least get the $80 back in scrap. Not counting all the extra parts you'll have.
#7
It'd fit but no real reason to do that? It's the sane exact unit. It's just the cable that's different. Only problem I see with this swap is I think(?) from memory. I'm not in front of the FB but the AC lines to the compressor are different. So it's do a little fab there with the lines. You'll have to use the FC compressor no way around that. Damn shame. The AC works in this car. I could just let the freon go but I'll take it up to hoefling tire. I'm sure he will take ~2 pounds of R134a. Lol
Ok no pictures yet. I will begin the swap soon. The FB is still complete.
Parts I'm going to need is: S4 AFM and hose, one line from power steering pump to the rack (guy at junkyard got a bit carried away with the fork truck - he had the whole car in the frigging air grabbing the motor hanging by the trans mount!!!!!!!!!) I'd disconnected everything only the stud through the middle in the mount holding it!!! It was a site damn about **** my pants saying WOOOO WOOO WOOO damn dude
Anyway! S4 AFM, that PS line, front 4 piston calipers and brackets and set of wheels (5 x 114.3) they probably have the wheels there but they were in a like 100 feet long 4-5 feet tall. It'd take all day! Need some spaces for the rear. I'm told 4 x 110 to 5 x 114.3 20mm offset spacers (82transam you listening) I need a rear tails haft and shift for a FB (I have 3 FB transmissions but I don't want to part a good tranny). Fuel pump and a decent gas tank!
When I start this week. I'll move over to the builds section. I move so fast I don't usually take pictures. But I'll try this time. This looks like an easy swap.
I've already done the 84-85 dash and cluster in an 83. That was way different in wiring but pretty easy. I'll try to document a build on that one.
Ok no pictures yet. I will begin the swap soon. The FB is still complete.
Parts I'm going to need is: S4 AFM and hose, one line from power steering pump to the rack (guy at junkyard got a bit carried away with the fork truck - he had the whole car in the frigging air grabbing the motor hanging by the trans mount!!!!!!!!!) I'd disconnected everything only the stud through the middle in the mount holding it!!! It was a site damn about **** my pants saying WOOOO WOOO WOOO damn dude
Anyway! S4 AFM, that PS line, front 4 piston calipers and brackets and set of wheels (5 x 114.3) they probably have the wheels there but they were in a like 100 feet long 4-5 feet tall. It'd take all day! Need some spaces for the rear. I'm told 4 x 110 to 5 x 114.3 20mm offset spacers (82transam you listening) I need a rear tails haft and shift for a FB (I have 3 FB transmissions but I don't want to part a good tranny). Fuel pump and a decent gas tank!
When I start this week. I'll move over to the builds section. I move so fast I don't usually take pictures. But I'll try this time. This looks like an easy swap.
I've already done the 84-85 dash and cluster in an 83. That was way different in wiring but pretty easy. I'll try to document a build on that one.
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#11
Stock is cheaper and I have one. I'm not afraid of wiring. The sport suspension diagram is the one I might need to study. That ECU I pulled that I didn't know what it was for now I think I know what's it's for (mounted by clutch pedal with 2 nuts)
#13
The AAS would be a piece of cake to wire. Especially the front. But the rear uses a strut (4 bolt mount) FB don't that would be a lot of work to cut and weld in a 'strut tower' in the rear. That idea is out. I don't think you can use any other strut but the ones for the AAS. The front struts have little motors that spin a **** to tighten or loosen something. Btw: in a FC the ECU is in the back behind the license plate.
Mapped out all the wiring today. Thought the PS was going to suck but I got a S4 it only uses the speed sensor wire from the instrument cluster. The S5 actually used input from the clock spring (steering angle) switch behind the steering wheel. That ECU is the one in front if the clutch pedal.
Mapped out all the wiring today. Thought the PS was going to suck but I got a S4 it only uses the speed sensor wire from the instrument cluster. The S5 actually used input from the clock spring (steering angle) switch behind the steering wheel. That ECU is the one in front if the clutch pedal.
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