Misthael

Everything was running great except when coasting around 35 mph in third or 4th gear it kinda sputtered. I had to coast in 5th. I decided to tweak the timing some more. That's where I went wrong. Now I can't get the timing back to where I first had it. It would be nice if the distributor and motor turned at the same rate instead of having different ratios causing me to just hit and miss until I get it. Is there any way to tell exactly how the main pulley is supposed to go on so I can put it back on right and timeit from there?

Misthael

Newest syptoms: After taking her out on the highway for a bit... she doesn't liek to stay at one speed period. She'll stay put better in higher gears/lower RPMs, but she sputters when, say, going 70mph in 5th, or going 40mph in 3rd or 4th. There's a tiny little lope after she's warmed up. Nothing liek it used to do with the stock carb. Is this a timing issue still? Or is my mixture a bit off?




P.S. I only drove approx 20 miles and used almost a quarter of the tank. WTF!?!?!?!?

rxseven07

dude! its the fuel filter! change it

Misthael

Fuel filter was put on at the same time as the fuel pump. It's only seen 30 miles of driving.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Did you time it with a light or did you just guess? Timing lights are pretty cheap if you don't have one. Also, you can usually rent one or borrow one off someone.

Misthael

I can't time it with a light because the main pulley isn't on right. It apparently can go on 4 different ways. Stupid engineers can't make that vital of a part go on only one way. WTF?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

you also have to make sure when the pulley is correct that you are lining the pin up with the leading mark.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

So when you try to time it, the mark is nowhere to be seen, correct? You are maybe 180* out. Try putting the light on L2 instead. If the mark line up with the pin, then you know that you are 180* out.

As a side note, I believe that Mazda fixed this pulley problem after '86. They moved one of the holes so the pulley would only go on one way.

Kent

Misthael

You are reading me wrong. I can't use a light at all because if I time it to the lines on the main pulley it is definitely wrong. I set the timing by lining up the leading mark to the pin, pulling the dizzy out and putting the mark on the dizzy with one of the two holes on the shaft. The mark it's supposed to line up with will be out of time since the pulley is wrong. It's a trial and error thing. I just need to know if timing is the problem. Or is it fuel? It starts fine and idles fine with a slight lope. It accelerates fine with no hiccups. It will hold on a specific speed, but it sputters. Timing or fuel?

Misthael

Remember. The engine is also rebuilt. Only 30 miles on it. Could that have anything to do with it?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

run a fuel pressure test on it. perhaps you have a float problem. is your bowl dirty at all. you can check float level through the sight glass on the front of the carb.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I know what you are saying. I was wondering when you changed the pulley position (by 90*) if you just changed the pulley (rotate it one direction) and try to see if it ran. I didn't know if you checked it with a light. If the mark is lining up with the pin and the engine is running, the pulley is problably in the correct position. If the pulley is wrong, then you will have the problems that you indicated earlier (not starting, engine kicking backwards).

Also on the dizzy, you there is a dimple in between the two holes.That is what you are suppose to align with the shaft. If the dizzy is aligned, the dizzy rotor should be pointing to the L1 position when the engine is at TDC (leading mark, assuming the pulley is correct).

With the pulley, did you change the position of the pulley, or are you doing it by rotating the dizzy?

Get it to where the leading mark lines up with the pulley (if it isn't already) and we will take it from there.

kenn_chan

Try this:

remove leading plugs

rotate engine by hand until front rotor is in center (approx) of rotor depression

remove distributor and set to fire on front rotor leading approximate

remove front pulley and realign 90 degrees at a time until the timeing marks are now in vicinity of each other.

put plugs in start, and set timing with light.

kenn

edit: or just give up and give it to me, I needs parts

Tony Silva

Maybe the fuel line (not the filter) is plugged up. Why don't you buy 15 feet of rubber fuel hose, connect it onto the tank run it up to the carby clamp it on and see if it will run up to the redline. Or maybe buy a fuel pressure guage and splice it into the current fuel line near the carby and rev the engine and look for any fluctuation in the guage.

Kentetsu

I still say your issue is in the timing. Like Ken Chan said, start with the basics first. You have to be able to know for sure that the front pulley is on correctly before you can nail down the timing....

Misthael

I think I'm gonna just take the pulley off and put it on every way it will go on until the lines show up with the timing light. I'm pretty sure I know which way it's supposed to be on. I'm guessing it's not fuel because it revs fine. If it's not timing I'm thinking hte air fuel ratio is a little off when the car is at a constant speed. I have tomorrow off to work on it. Wish me luck.

Elysian

this is the same problem i am having with my FB... when the motor was built atkins put the main pulley on loosely with 1 bolt, i assumed it was in the correct position, so i bolted it in the way it was... go to start it up, it won't start, backfiring thru carb... switched L1/T1 with L2/T2, it started right up... but it has a little bit of a sputter(tho it might be because its a new motor, still getting rid of hylomar or something), so now i think i'm gonna pull the pulley off and try and put it on the opposite way, basically 180 degrees around... but i can't do that until i get my new oil cooler, since i found my oil cooler has a absolutely massive leak