The_7

I just bought new ball joints and inner control arm bushings from VB. I'm on a tight budget so I really don't want to get new control arms - especially since I already got the parts. I've read that people have had success with pressing in the new joints and then tack welding them in place. I don't have a welder, but my friend works at a trucking place with a shop so I could probably have him do it for me. Once you do this, when the new ball joints go bad you will need a new arm for sure as it would be extremely difficult to get the old ones out without ruining the arm. So is there a reason you shouldn't just weld a full bead all the way around? Will the continuous heat damage the ball joint somehow, or is this way overkill? If tack welds are plenty strong, how many should I do on each ball joint?

REVHED

There's no need to weld all the way around. I just put two tacks on each joint.

peejay

A tack weld is easily filed or ground through in case the ball joint needs replaced.

You don't want to do a full weld because the heat can ruint the ball joint. Just a quick tack here and there.

Or, don't weld them in at all. You might luck out. I tacked mine in because I race offroad and overkill is the best policy.

- Pete (it's a fine metal band too!)

REVHED

Yeah, chances are they might press in quite well depending on if it's been done before. If there's any looseness then you'll need to weld it.

The_7

Alright, thanks guys. If it rattles I'll have a few tacks put in it.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If it rattles, you may see the wheel going down the street ahead of you. LOL. Just tack it and be safe and done with it.

I did find a set that had a snap ring to hold the ball joint in. I forgot to put one of them in and by the time I had the car apart again, I had lost the ring. Both sides are now tacked.

The_7

Yea I read about some people using a kit from PST (I think?) that used snap rings.

richlrx7

Six words.........Weld them, weld them, weld them!! If its a stock ball-joint replacement w/o clips, give yourself the peace of mind and tack weld them in place. The factory did it for a reason, shitty design. Only pressing in the ball-joints is not enough even under light driving conditions. You can't avoid every pot-hole!

rustnrot

I just did this and put in energy suspension control arm bushings as well. I put 4 tack welds on each balljoint. I used a Miller tig machine and didn't even use any filler, just melted the metal together in 4 places. I ran it under the water after each weld to be sure I did not overheat it, overkill I am sure!

The_7

Well I had a little mishap just a minute ago. I was trying to remove the old ball joints and I don't have the proper tool; I was looking around the garage trying to come up with a way to do it without getting another tool. I figured I might be able to do it with my 2 jaw puller, so I put a big socket over the top of the joint so it wouldnt pivot and setup the puller. After I looked at this I thought it might bend up the sides of the contol arm. I've never done this before so I don't know how much force it takes to remove the joint. I was in a lazy and impatient mood so I just said F*ck it and went at it. LOL, sure enough, I bent up one edge of the arm. Damn, those things are in tight, it didn't even budge!

So, do I need to buy a new arm now? Looking at it, the only ill effects I can think it would cause is a little decrease in strength on that side...under load I guess this could cause the ball joint to bend the arm even farther throwing the steering/alignment out of wack.....so I should probably buy a new arm, what do you guys think?

If I buy a new arm, should I buy both or just replace the damaged one? VB wants $200 for one and Mazdatrix is $140, are there any cheaper places?

peejay

Uh, no. I have never seen a ball joint that wasn't designed "fail safe", IE should the ball joint come un-pressed, the control arm would "fall" between the joint and the knuckle, instead of off of the joint.

Besides, the strut would still hold the wheel on the chassis.

I wonder if you even know what we're talking about, or if you're just another one of the clueless empty-heads that just like to babble to hear yourself talk. You've certainly contributed nothing to the thread other than "M3 T00 LOLZ !!!!!"

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I have a 12 ton press and it just barely pushed out the ball joints. If not set up properly, it is very easy to deform the arm. I had to do a little straightening after I pressed mine out.

Your best bet might be to take them to a machine shop and have them press them in and out. They can tan tack weld them too. That would be a lot cheaper than buying new arms.

Maybe I should have put a smiley face in there, it was internet humor, so don't be so quick to jump and insult.

And perhaps you should reread my post. I did contribute the fact that there are some aftermarket ball joints out there that have a snap ring so you don't have to weld them.

RXDad

iTrader: (2)

I put new ball joints in... one started slipping out and one tack cured the issue.

I did, however, bend the arm somewhat pressing the new ball joint in and now have difficulty getting any negative camber on the alignment.

Good set-up and a knowledgeable press operator is required to get a good result.

RXDad

The_7

Ok, I will take them to a shop. But as far as the arm I already bent a little, Can I just bend it back carefully? One edge (were it bends down at a 90 degree angle) was bent upwards from the puller. I think If im careful to get it back to its original shape it should be fine.

peejay

Which makes zero difference. The snap ring does nothing useful, if the ball joint has insufficient press fit then it has insufficient press fit and it *will* knock around and damage the control arm (more). The clip prevents more radical vertical motion, but in the event of a lack of press fit the ball joint will not be secured.

This was the problem with all of the MX-6/626/Probe ball joints I'd do. The new joints would fall in. Sure there was a C-clip, but it was still a loose fit, which is still NFG, and still needs to be remedied.

The ball joints I got from NAPA fit nice and snug in the control arms, and were pretty cheap too. I only tacked them in because of the driving I do. I also am boxing the control arms and making new rear suspension mounting points out of 1/8" plate, this does not mean it is strictly necessary.

Rx7carl

Well these are all good posts, mostly anyway. For the record, use a damn hyd press to do this please. And I did not tack my new ones on the racecar, but I do check them after EVERY session, and it took all my 20 ton press power to get them in. So far no problem. Its dependent on the condition of your arms. If its a streetcar I would throw a couple of tacks on it, just for the peace of mind, potholes and all. Full welds are not only unnecessary but could cause a problem. First yes the arm is a throw away if the joint wears out, secondly your causing un necessary stress on the joint and the stamped arm. You could warp the arm.