1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

weird fuel issues with my gslse

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Old May 10, 2016 | 06:12 PM
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From: seminole florida
weird fuel issues with my gslse

Alright so ive been having a real hard time keeping my gslse running lately. i have a fuel pump switch and just put on 10mm magnecor wire, msd high vibration coils, br8eq14 spark plugs, and all new silicone vacuum lines.

So the issue ive been having is itll start with the fuel pump off and run for a while, i held it at 2000 for a 45 seconds maybe then was able to drive up and down the street before i switched my fuel pump on and it almost died but kept going. some of my other symptoms are that itll run really sluggish until after 3700 when it gets a noticeable increase in acceleration (kinda like when you have water in your gas) but after 5000 in 2nd it just bogs or maybe has too much fuel. also when i start it with the fuel pump off and turn it back on it just dies.

Can anyone help me please ive been thinking its leaking injectors
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Old May 11, 2016 | 02:05 AM
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First off, I don't think you have your Fuel Pump switch wired correctly, because without power to your fuel pump you will not have enough injector rail pressure to run the engine at 2000rpm for 45 sec, much less drive it up and down the street. Your fuel pump is working just fine - likely putting out the required 45psi or so, or the engine wouldn't even start. Check your wiring on that one; I'm curious what you're actually switching.

'Running really sluggish until 3700rpm' sounds to me like your '6'-ports are working! They tend to open due to exhaust backpressure right at around 3500-3700rpm and you'll feel the power boost as they rotate open and let more air/fuel into the engine. Topping out at 5000rpm in 2nd gear bogging may be running too rich. What does the exhaust smell like - and what exhaust system are you running?

If you think it's leaking injectors, you need to check your fuel mileage - you do track fuel mileage, don't you? It's a good method to see if something is going wrong in your fuel or intake system if you keep a baseline and notice a change. If you have leaky injectors you'll notice extremely poor fuel economy (~8-10mpg) vs. normal city/highway @~16-18mpg or more, if you drive a lot of highway time. All highway, my -SE topped out at 28mpg at 60mph on perfectly flat ground and taking it very easy on the throttle.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 05:37 AM
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Why do you have your pump wired to a switch? There is no need to have it that way unless there is an underlying issue.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 04:33 PM
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my fuel pump was wired to a switch from the previous owner and it looks like they have it wired through the ground, also while driving the switch can get pretty hot. my fuel pump is fairly new and so is the filter. Both pulsation dampeners have been deleted as well. and i am certain the bog is from being too rich.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 04:37 PM
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also for my exhaust i have an RB header straight to what looks like a monza? or some sort of racing beat type of muffler except with a slanted tip. also theres a huge leak right at the flange from the header to piping previous owner did a hack job weld and left a huge hole and 2 small ones
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Old May 11, 2016 | 04:38 PM
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and for fuel mileage i cant really track it as my fuel gauge and speedometer doesnt work
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Old May 11, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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You don't need a working fuel guage, all you need is a GPS app and the amount of gas at each fill up.

Anyway you have some work to do to undo the PO handiwork.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 05:51 PM
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so today i bypassed the switch, have it wired normally and it starts really good now just theres still the significant difference in acceleration from below 3700 to above 3700 it was never this way.
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