357

So I tried searching for A/C compressor problems, and I found some, but everybody that had posted had said that when they hotwired their compressor, that they got cold air. When I hotwire my compressor, the clutch engagement ring clicks, and pops onto the pulley, but only when the engine is off. When the engine is on..nothing. Not even a click. Any ideas?

357

New development: Now the clutch doesn't even click when the engine is off.

357

And now it works again...What the HELL is wrong with my car!!!!

jr69187

dunno i took the ac off to save weight

jr

357

Ok, sorry guys, I'm being really stupid today, and i can get the clutch ring to engage now even when the engine is on, (a matter of getting a good electrical connection on the bettery end of my jumper), and my mom claims that when I do that, the air gets colder, but I'm afraid to run the compressor for more than about 3 or 4 seconds, so I don't burn it out. Anyway, It's obviously something in the electrical system that's preventing the compressor from turning on. What are the most common problems? Also, when I finally got the compressor turning, it made sort of a scraping sound (a lot like a piece of sandpaper drug across a 2x4). Is this normal for a healthy compressor? Last question; how much would it cost to have a leak detection test done, and then the leaks repaired (assuming none of the major components need to be replaced)? Thanks for your help, and sorry again abotu my stupidity!

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you are low on Freon/R132A. Don't screw with it anymore. It's too easy to make the whole system uselss. Take it to somebody who knows how to fix them.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Either low on freon or bad pressure switch

357

Thanks guys! By the way, if it turns out I have a leak, how much does it usually cost to get it diagnosed, and repaired?

BadAssRX-7

well i had a FUCK1ng fuse be the pain in my 84 a/c *** theres 3 fuses in the fuse box..... 1 A/C 2 BLOWER 3 LIGHTER( ok mazda explan wtf the lighter has to do twith the A/C)

357

Thanks, I'll check my fuses again as well. One more thing; has anybody heard of a pressure swich going bad, especially if the a/c had sat uncharged for a while?

V8kilr

ok im gonna have to ask you to break out your chiltons for this one
"put away that ****** haynes i said chiltons"

now look at the wiring diagrams,
the pressure switch does not normally just go bad but it will work
which means if theres low pressure it will shut off your a/c on you.

but that could be the problem,
could be a little worse

if your car is 84-85 then all this info is correct,
if older i dont know?
theres more relays then just the a/c
theres a fuel cut relay which i would check,
its for people like me who buy a used rx7 that doesnt run because the computer blew up or something just tripped the fuel cut relay and it dont run,

so you hop under the dash and cut one wire,
locate it and see if theres a wire cut
you DO NOT need the computer to drive the car,
its not FI

now if it is cut then chances are your computer is blown and theres another problem which still could be a problem even if yuor comp is not blown,

and thats the a/c cut relay

see what im getting at?


so far the 84 gsl i own now is the first rx7 i will keep the a/c on,
although it doesn not work much like yours,
but my computer is either blown or the pressure switch kicked in,
which i do not know,
but i do know i cut my fuel cut relay when i bought the car,
so the comp could be blown,

i also have low pressure,

check your pressure and see if yours is low as well,
you do this by going to the compressor and finding the two bike tire looking valves and pressing them like a bike tire,
DONT INHALE
that will let you know if it is extremely low,

im gonna charge mine up and see what happens,
i will keep you updated on any new finds and check your threads for new finds as well,

if we can solve this problem then i think this thread is archive worthy

357

Awesome. I looked at my Chilton's, and I would the A/C cut and A/C relays in the wiring diagram, but I still have no clue as to where each of the relays is.

But anyway, I just checked under the dash, and I didn't see any wires that had been cut (although I didn't exactly knwo which wire to look for, and since there are about 8 bundles of nearly 15 each...).

I'm the second owner of the car, and it ran when i bought it four months ago, and still does, if that gives you any useful info.

Now, on the "bike tire thing", should I press the suction (low pressure;S) side of the compressor, or the discharge (high pressure;D) side, or both? If the system is charged, how fast should the rush of freon be? How would it compare to the rush of air out of a car or bike tire (for comparison)? Oh, and I'm assuming I should probably wear leather work gloves while doing so to make sure I dont get frostbite.

If anybody has any insights, please feel free to post!

swrx7

ok.....first of all convert your a/c to 134a. should be able to find a retro fit kit for about $35. then buy a can of f 134a with leak deterctor dye for about $6. even if you have a slow leak (like mine) its not too expensive to keep it working. and if u need a new compressor you can get a re-man. from autozone for $211. also make sure ytou have a toggle switch to turn off the compressor cuz you will burn it up if you leave it on without the car in.....or it may kill your battery first.

357

I've already done the R134a conversion. How does this leak detector dye stuff work? Is it just a colored gas that is sprayed out where the leak is? I like the idea, though, so I'll get a can when I go to Walmart today.

About the toggle switch...
I'm not quite sure I get you when you say to make sure I have a toggle switch to turn the compressor off, or else I'll burn it up. Currently, the only way I can get the run is by hotwiring it, which I don't really want to be trying to do while the car is in motion.

Thanks for the info.

357

Ok, I was just at Walmart, and I found the dye-type leak detection stuff, btu I t gives no indication what to look for if there is a leak. Any ideas?

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I bought a freon sniffer from Snap On, also got a vacuum pump and a recharge setup hoses etc, it was a bit pricey but considering I NEVER keep an AC working for more than a month it was better than paying the guys down the street $50 each time.

V8kilr

forget about the toggle switch,
lets acutally fix the problem,not just rig it up

here is a pic of the fuel cut relay,
notice the cut wire,black w/yellow



and here is where it is located
it is circled in red




here is another showcasing the location,
my index finger is touching the realy



when pressing in on the comressor,press in both fittings to check for air flow,
it should rush out like a full bike tire,
use a punch or screwdriver so you dont get frostbite

V8kilr

also i know that this is not the best photo,
i dont feel like breaking out my scanner,
so basically this is from the chiltons and show wich section of the diagram to look at if you have a 12a,
not a 13b,

i just want to make sure you not looking at both

the highlighted area is for a 12a



dont look at the ohter a/c relays there for a 13b

im gonna see if i cant find the cut relay and which wire to cut on it to see if its bad,
and i will also try to find the low pressure relay

357

Ok, just checked it, and the wire is definitely not cut. If I were to cut it, it'd cut power to the A/C cut relay, thereby forcing the A/C to run, right?

cletus

If it is not working, there is a reason. Low pressure, high pressure, maybe a clog. You force it to run when something is telling it not to, you could make matters worse. So before you start cutting wires to the safety switches, try to figure it out first. You could use that as a test to see if the relay is bad or something, but I really wouldn't leave it like that. Mine was trying to tell me something

357

I just did the "bicycle tire" thing, and got absolutely NO pressure from either side of the compressor, and I put two cans of 134 in 6 weeks ago, so there's a pretty big leak somewhere. Also, when I first put the stuff in, i could hear a very slight whooshing sound coming from the area of the A/C hose that goes from the compressor towards the front-left of the engine bay.

V8kilr

no,
im just trying to help you through process of elimination

V8kilr

sounds like thats your problem,
low pressure causing the pressure switch to cut off your a/c

357

Now that we've established what the problem is, what's the best way to go about fixing it?

Can I buy A/C lines somewhere, and replace them myself, 'cause there's no pressure in the system, or do I have to have it done professionally?

fatboy7

You need to find the leak, either with the died coolant, and a sniffer or have someone who knows what to look for(chances are its an o-ring, or something lame, and cheap to replace). And like its been said, if there is no coolant in the system, the pressure switch will not allow the clutch to engage, and for good reason. The oil (either ether or PAG) binds itself to the coolant, without the oil the compressor will be jacked in no time.... I just hope your scraping sound isn't the sound of your compressor keeling over, they're about $200 rebuilt.

So when you are leak testing, buy a can of ether or or PAG. To get the system to take the refridgerant you'll have to get the clutch to engage. I used some simple allagator clips to touch the +battery to the clutch line. Hook up the refridgerant w/dye and pulse the clutch while running the engine at idle. Quick pulses of no more than a second or two. after a couple pulses, attach the oil can (you'll need a second fill kit), tip the oil upside down, and pulse the clutch several more times, let it take as much oil as it will, then back to the refridgerant. At this point, because you've got some oil in the system, you don't have to be as careful with the clutch, but until you put at least 4 oz of oil and an entire can of refridgerant in the system, don't attach the clutch back into the system. Once reattached to the system it should run when the A/C switch is pushed, if not then start hunting electrical problems. And of course listen for leaks...