Feds

Keep in mind that the weight advantages of an aluminum rad will be negated if the rad is higher volume. Water is wicked heavy.

The bumper is a good place to start, then FG hood and sail panel (between the lights) Fixed lights will be lighter than pop-ups, otherwise, I can't think of too much unless you want to unwrap the harness and take out unneccessary wires.

Rx7carl

Good point. 8lbs per gal.

Feds

No, 1 kg per litre.

Manntis

The header panel between the lights is actually quite light. Replicating it in fibreglass is difficult because it has metal structure running all the way down to the bottom of the Radiator

cosmicbang

Wow, that would be a lot of grinding!! I would just remove the entire bumper and make a very simple lightweight aluminum frame to hold the cover and lights in place. The bumper shocks themselves can be removed at the same time since they are fairly heavy and would no longer serve any purpose.

You are correct. My older MFR aluminum radiators look somewhat different. The Ron Davis/AWR/MFR aluminum radiators are $471 for the tall, and $445 for the short from AWR, which is a reasonable range for an aluminum radiator (they cost even more back then). It would not make sense to save a few dollars with a cheap one considering the consequences of overheating the engine.

Feds

Canadian GSL eh?

Have you ditched your headlight washers?

Also, things like sub zero fluid and hot start assist may be worth tossing.

What is the status of your interior? you can pull the carpet, take out the sound deadening, then put the carpet back down.

grantmac

Hmm, headlight washer container is empty and coming out as soon as I can find all the bolts that connect it. Possibly even take out the nozzles for it. The sub-zero tank and hot-start are both gone, along with all the emissions. I've got nothing in the car for interior except the dash and two sparco sprint seats (those babies are super light!). I also intend on adding a front strut bar and sway-bar, which sort of adds weight in the wrong area.
Would it be feasable to relocated the battery all the way to the back of the hatch area? I don't have any storage bins so I can pretty much mount it anywhere, the only advantage I can see with mounting it where the bins were is that it's gonna be lower down and so lower the CG a little bit.
Grant

kennetht638

iTrader: (1)

You may be in luck because I don't believe you would need hood pins to hold down a forward-opening hood unless you're removing the stock latch too, or you're going racing in reverse (and have a really tall reverse gear). You should be careful with removing hood bracing though, because at least some of it is there for a reason, and you probably don't want your hood buckling at high speeds.