Weber45 masters wanted
02-23-03, 11:57 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Miinnesota
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Weber45 masters wanted
I recently installed a Weber 45dcoe. Im looking for some advice/help.
Ok, to start things off, my car is running very rich. My idle fluxuates between 800 and 1600 RPM's. If i try to lean it out, the car will not hold an idle whatsoever.
When attempting to accelerate from between 2,500 - 3,000 RPM's, the car bogs big time, i have to tap the gas several times to get it to go. What can i do about these problems?
Also, i removed the vacum advance for the dizzy... What does the vacum do? When removing it, how does it operate correctly?
I can not find any shops that will attepmt to tune it, no one wants to touch a roatary
Any ideas or opinions on what may be causing me my many problems are greatly appreciated.
Ok, to start things off, my car is running very rich. My idle fluxuates between 800 and 1600 RPM's. If i try to lean it out, the car will not hold an idle whatsoever.
When attempting to accelerate from between 2,500 - 3,000 RPM's, the car bogs big time, i have to tap the gas several times to get it to go. What can i do about these problems?
Also, i removed the vacum advance for the dizzy... What does the vacum do? When removing it, how does it operate correctly?
I can not find any shops that will attepmt to tune it, no one wants to touch a roatary
Any ideas or opinions on what may be causing me my many problems are greatly appreciated.
02-24-03, 01:50 AM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
First things first.
Could be a major vacumm leak. Check everything for leaks. WD40 spray works great to detect leaks.
Next thing is to check the carb, there is a great possibilty one of the auxiliary chokes is installed backwards. Remove the carb and check looking thru the barrels, look for a cone shape little barrel inside. This little barrel should have a smooth funnel shape looking at you but make sure both are the same. You can take them out by removing the set screws on the bottom. I suggest you take them out and inspect.
Now make sure the venturis are the correct size for you engine, I assume you are stockported...if so you should see a 36 stamped on both venturis. These are the big barrels that go inside the carb, they effectevily determine the amount of air that flows thru the carb. If you go to big the carb bogs majorly like you describe.
Once you test out the carb you can continue with the jets. Sounds like your primary jets are either too big or too small...these are the ones closer to the opening of the carb. The secondary jets are closer to the engine side. The four jets can be removed by taking out the circular looking cover on top of the carb and then unscrewing the emulsion tubes.
If you got any more questions feel free to ask. Once you get this sorted out you should not have any problems in the future.
Could be a major vacumm leak. Check everything for leaks. WD40 spray works great to detect leaks.
Next thing is to check the carb, there is a great possibilty one of the auxiliary chokes is installed backwards. Remove the carb and check looking thru the barrels, look for a cone shape little barrel inside. This little barrel should have a smooth funnel shape looking at you but make sure both are the same. You can take them out by removing the set screws on the bottom. I suggest you take them out and inspect.
Now make sure the venturis are the correct size for you engine, I assume you are stockported...if so you should see a 36 stamped on both venturis. These are the big barrels that go inside the carb, they effectevily determine the amount of air that flows thru the carb. If you go to big the carb bogs majorly like you describe.
Once you test out the carb you can continue with the jets. Sounds like your primary jets are either too big or too small...these are the ones closer to the opening of the carb. The secondary jets are closer to the engine side. The four jets can be removed by taking out the circular looking cover on top of the carb and then unscrewing the emulsion tubes.
If you got any more questions feel free to ask. Once you get this sorted out you should not have any problems in the future.
02-24-03, 11:58 AM
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
there are a couple of diagrams on the net that are really all you need to know the components on the weber. There is also a few articles on how to tune it.
I don't have the links with me but they help.
I don't remember right now my carbs combo but I'll check it out today at my shop if possible.
I don't have the links with me but they help.
I don't remember right now my carbs combo but I'll check it out today at my shop if possible.
02-24-03, 01:12 PM
#6
Re: Weber45 masters wanted
That idle prob sounds like a vaccuum leak.
The acceleration from 2500-3000 is the progression circuit and it's fuel flow is determined by the idle fuel jet and the idle jet holder. I would bet you need to go richer. With my dellorto sidedraft on a stockported 12a I ran size 75 idle fuel jets and I be the weber would be close to that.
The distributor has both a centrifugal and vaccum advance. The centrifugal advance will advance the timing as the motor's rpm's are increased. The vaccum advance will advance the timing when the motor is drawing more vaccuum. It's very common to eliminate the vaccum advance with an old rotary. You'll be fine.
Buy the book here. It is excellent!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...roduct-details
-bp-
The acceleration from 2500-3000 is the progression circuit and it's fuel flow is determined by the idle fuel jet and the idle jet holder. I would bet you need to go richer. With my dellorto sidedraft on a stockported 12a I ran size 75 idle fuel jets and I be the weber would be close to that.
The distributor has both a centrifugal and vaccum advance. The centrifugal advance will advance the timing as the motor's rpm's are increased. The vaccum advance will advance the timing when the motor is drawing more vaccuum. It's very common to eliminate the vaccum advance with an old rotary. You'll be fine.
Buy the book here. It is excellent!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...roduct-details
-bp-
Originally posted by RoTARY-ReX
I recently installed a Weber 45dcoe. Im looking for some advice/help.
Ok, to start things off, my car is running very rich. My idle fluxuates between 800 and 1600 RPM's. If i try to lean it out, the car will not hold an idle whatsoever.
When attempting to accelerate from between 2,500 - 3,000 RPM's, the car bogs big time, i have to tap the gas several times to get it to go. What can i do about these problems?
Also, i removed the vacum advance for the dizzy... What does the vacum do? When removing it, how does it operate correctly?
I can not find any shops that will attepmt to tune it, no one wants to touch a roatary
Any ideas or opinions on what may be causing me my many problems are greatly appreciated.
I recently installed a Weber 45dcoe. Im looking for some advice/help.
Ok, to start things off, my car is running very rich. My idle fluxuates between 800 and 1600 RPM's. If i try to lean it out, the car will not hold an idle whatsoever.
When attempting to accelerate from between 2,500 - 3,000 RPM's, the car bogs big time, i have to tap the gas several times to get it to go. What can i do about these problems?
Also, i removed the vacum advance for the dizzy... What does the vacum do? When removing it, how does it operate correctly?
I can not find any shops that will attepmt to tune it, no one wants to touch a roatary
Any ideas or opinions on what may be causing me my many problems are greatly appreciated.
