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Weber 45 DCOE tuning in WI

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Old 05-14-18, 09:38 AM
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Weber 45 DCOE tuning in WI

I know there have been quite a few threads for tuning a Weber 45 DCOE and jetting to use, but I was curious if anyone has had a 45 DCOE on a 12a tuned in Wisconsin and if so, where at, and the results? Currently my car accelerates pretty quickly, but as soon as I get to 4500 - 5000 rpms, it seems to fall on its face. I've verified my spark plugs are set correctly, currently running an MSD 6a with 3 blaster coils, 1 for each leading plug, and one for trailing plugs, running the full racing beat street port exhaust system, but the engine is still stock.

I'm looking to take the car in to have it dyno'd and tuned, but the tuning rates are 250/hour and I'm afraid I may not have the correct jets available to get the car tuned correctly. From reading other documentation, the symptoms I'm having is usually corrected with changing the size of the Air Correctors. I started with 160, and have gone down 3 sizes, to 145, but still having the problem. If anyone near the Slinger, WI area has experience with jetting and tuning the 45 DCOE and can at least let me know if tuning/jetting will correct the issues, it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, if you have taken yours to a tuner and had great results I'd love to know the place. The place I plan on taking it for tuning is Beyond Redline in Greenbay.
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Old 05-14-18, 06:01 PM
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What size chokes are in there?
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Old 05-15-18, 07:54 PM
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The current numbers for all:

Choke - 36
Venturi - 45
Main - 190
Emulsion - F11
Air Corrector - 145, but i have 140,150, and originally started with 160
Idle - 60F9
Pump - 45
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Old 05-16-18, 02:45 PM
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also, not sure if it is typical, but in order to get the car to idle I did have to adjust the air bypass screw.
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Old 05-18-18, 07:50 AM
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Any one else run into the problem with the Weber 45 DCOE where the acceleration is great, but top end completely lacking? I know it might not be possible to have the best of both worlds, but currently as soon as I get to 70-80 mph, 4500-5000 rpm, there isn't much power. I'm just not sure which jetting should be adjusted, and whether up or down in size, so if any one can give some advice it would be appreciated.
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Old 05-19-18, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by rayadas View Post
also, not sure if it is typical, but in order to get the car to idle I did have to adjust the air bypass screw.
each time it idles? or just the one time to set it up? the Weber is designed to be used with 1 barrel for one or sometimes two cylinders. the rotary is almost like 3, so its moving a lot more air, and adjusting the air bypass is needed. with the IDA, we end up moving the throttle stop to add more air, and then we loose a transition port, which tends to cause hesitations.

Originally Posted by rayadas View Post
Any one else run into the problem with the Weber 45 DCOE where the acceleration is great, but top end completely lacking? I know it might not be possible to have the best of both worlds, but currently as soon as I get to 70-80 mph, 4500-5000 rpm, there isn't much power. I'm just not sure which jetting should be adjusted, and whether up or down in size, so if any one can give some advice it would be appreciated.
190 jet might be too big. also what fuel pump are you using? it could be running out of fuel. its helpful to have a wideband oxygen sensor here, it will tell you if its too rich or too lean
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Old 05-19-18, 07:55 PM
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The air bypass was adjusted the one time when initially tuning. I'm using the Mallory 4070M fuel pump. I do have a wideband hooked up to the leading exhaust pipe and numbers are looking good. When I rev the engine and monitor the gauge, it doesn't appear to be too lean or rich, but just doesn't really have a top end. Typically the number is around 12-14 regardless of the rpms.
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Old 05-20-18, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rayadas View Post
The air bypass was adjusted the one time when initially tuning. I'm using the Mallory 4070M fuel pump. I do have a wideband hooked up to the leading exhaust pipe and numbers are looking good. When I rev the engine and monitor the gauge, it doesn't appear to be too lean or rich, but just doesn't really have a top end. Typically the number is around 12-14 regardless of the rpms.
WOT over about 4000rpm should be about 12.8:1 +/- about .5 of a point.

if it is, the carb is close enough, and you need to look elsewhere. ignition is important, wires can be checked, but cap and rotor should just be newish.

after that you just need more air flow, if you could up the venturi's to 38's that would help.

what are you running for exhaust?
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Old 05-21-18, 09:07 PM
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For exhaust I'm running the Racing Beat Streetport Exhaust system. For ignition I have the MSD 6a with 3 blaster coils and MSD wires. I may just get a new cap and rotor as well as new spark plugs, they should be good, but it has been quite a few years since they were replaced. Any thoughts on the spark plugs I should run? I believe I'm currently running the NGK BR8EIX plugs. I'm also going to get the 38 venturis and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 05-24-18, 05:04 PM
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in the trailing the GSL-SE, or FC/FD trailing plugs work fine. BR9EQ, or BR9EQP

for the leading i like the Rx8 leading plugs, they work better and last longer.
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