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Watts Link. Is the brass colored bushing and large washer reusuable? Upgrading to disc rear and can’t seem to budge washer/bushing. And moving to a blow torch, but wanted to check that it’s not supposed to come off and I need to buy a new one? If memory serves me right the bushing and washer came with the Energy Suspension kit I installed a year or so ago. Looks like I need to buy the entire kit again to get bushing and washer.
Pinion Flange. Rad Potential mentions drilling the large pinion flange on a disc rear axle upgrade to match the different bolt pattern on the original drum brake drive shaft. That as straight forward as it seems? Now I have the axle off and see how the driveshaft and pinion flange connect I am concerned about hacking the hole positions and creating something slightly off center that will vibrate. I was hoping to see something self centering, but does not seem to be the case. Is it possible to to remove the pinion flange from the original pumpkin and move it over to the new one or does the fact it’s limited slip mean it’s not compatible, and is swapping it over a real pain? I also believe Mazdatrix have a driveshaft that will solve the issue, spend $360 on a driveshaft or screw up a diff trying to swap the Pinion Flange?
You can swap the flanges, but the problem is that you probably won't get the same preload on the pinion bearings unless the flanges are *exactly* the same length.
People who remove the flange to replace the seal would mark the nut and flange to tighten it up the same, but that goes out the window with a different flange.
The ring gear has to be off to set the preload, pretty much a differential reassembly.
Alrighty… That bushings is NOT coming off! Really tried, and scarred it up in the process. I am going to avoid problems and source new Watts link bushing, and a new driveshaft with the correct bolt pattern for the GSL pinion. Now, on to the master cylinder rabbit hole.
and a new driveshaft with the correct bolt pattern for the GSL pinion. .
the driveshaft isn't GSL or not, its 79-82 and 83-85 . in 1983 Mazda switched to a bigger driveshaft bolt pattern, so you just need an 83-85 driveshaft
Yeah personally I would just get the drive shaft to match your pinion flange (the 83-85 big flange in your case). Makes it easier and no need to go drilling holes.
Just be aware that the mazdatrix listing you show is for a car with an FC turbo transmission swapped in. If you still have the FB transmission this will not work for you.
To clarify for others reading this, the difference in driveshaft flanges is based on year, not drum/disk. 79-82 has the smaller flange with threaded holes, 83-85 has the larger flange with through holes which use a nut and bolt.
“the difference in driveshaft flanges is based on year, not drum/disk. 79-82 has the smaller flange with threaded holes, 83-85 has the larger flange with through holes which use a nut and bolt.”
Soooooo much learning! That’s what makes it entertaining.
And…. The driveshaft I had was wrong. Should be Mazdatrix 2691-701 which according to their very helpful phone person is how you bridge from a pre 83 transmission to a 83-85 rear end. (Just in case anyone sees this thread and orders the wrong driveshaft like me).
Mazda has three driveshafts for the 1st gen.
79-82, all 8871-25-100. small flange, U joints are replaceable, M003-25-060
83 is M026-25-100, for everything. Big Flange, staked in U joints
84-85 is M026-25-100 for the manual,
the new for 1984, 4 speed automatic is longer, so it uses M041-25-100, which i think is just shorter than the M026
the transmission output is all the same (except for maybe the 84-85 A/T), which is why its all plug an play.
What is the poster I always see at 24 Hours Lemons events….. “We are doing this not because it is easy. We are doing this because we thought it would be easy.”
I was lulled into a false sense of security by Rad Potential casually mentioning in one of his vids that you can re-drill the pinion flange. Maybe if I had a decent shop?
What is the poster I always see at 24 Hours Lemons events….. “We are doing this not because it is easy. We are doing this because we thought it would be easy.”
I was lulled into a false sense of security by Rad Potential casually mentioning in one of his vids that you can re-drill the pinion flange. Maybe if I had a decent shop?
its possible to do it, but its easier just to get the correct driveshaft, imo
and back to your first question, the sleeve and washer should come off the axle housing.
I'd try to push it forwards with a hammer & chisel behind the washer before moving on to a blowtorch.
Might need to remove 1 or 2 bolts from the heat shield. You'll only need enough room to grip the u-joint at the transmission side for reinstallation, it should slide out easily on removal..
You should have no issue removing the shaft with exhaust and such in place. It can be a little tricky getting the new one slid into the transmission with that giant shield in the way, but still do-able.
I have only watched a few of his vids but Rad-Potential seems to have some good info overall. I would not suggest re-drilling the flange though especially since a bolt on solution exists. Just my 2 cents...
Pulling the third member to swap out the flange for the large diameter with the through bolts is the easiest method for getting the pinion preload correct on a bench. Once you’re in that far though, you might as well inspect ring gear, pinion teeth, bearings, clutch discs and cone springs and thrust washers, etc (for an lsd). A new crush sleeve is cheap insurance too. If you are interested in that route, there’s really good guide in the faq. I have a marked up electronic copy with my own notes that weren’t exactly clear until I did a couple myself. By the way, the large adjuster spanner nuts that have that very specific ~7” cross width dimension that requires a mic is not really setting the bearing pre load, it’s setting the initial seat and making sure the flanges (could be mistaken for stiffening ribs) in the axle tube have the correct clearance so those can take the force when those caps expand.
oh also, if you are able to find a used large flange, get the correct m8 12mm head special length shoulder bolts along with it. They are NLA and I had the joy of getting every length m8 bolt to find the correct grip length class 10.9 bolt. A 13mm head fits nice and tight.
I can dig up my notes if you are interested to see the parts list and guide.
edit: if you do go that route, cut a couple pieces of 2x and make one of these. Makes working on it infinitely more better. I tried the vise on the web first and there’s no way that can work for the crush sleeve and it also messes up the surface. Also the pin spanner makes the bearing spacing and backlash adjustments easier. Just a bit of angle iron with bolts threaded into it.
I think I know the answer to this next one already, but gonna ask as I HATE being under my car. Sloping driveway in an earthquake zone.
To remove and reinstall my driveshaft do need to remove exhaust and heat shield?
I was lucky enough to have access to a lift when replaced my driveshaft, but I was able both remove the OEM, and install the new Mazdatrix driveshaft without having to remove anything. The new drive shaft slip yoke was stiff enough that I was able to push it forward to transmission output shaft and rotate it slowly until it slipped in.
And appreciate the detailed info SWBTM. Ended up getting a new large flange shaft. Seller had the diff apart to inspect it before sale and said in very good condition so going to leave it alone.
12-11-23, 06:08 PM
