Water temp thread?
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Colorado
Water temp thread?
Looking to upgrade to a better water temp gauge (something with actual numbers...) and was wondering what the stock temp sender specs are (thread and depth mainly) to see if itll fit there or if I should just splice it into the upper radiator hose.
talking head
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,775
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From: Perth, WA, OZ
the dash gauge coolant sender thread on the 74 - up to ( and including ) 88 s4 plates is 8 x 0.75
note s5 up rear plates use a larger thread
PS
you can add your gauge sender to the front plate,, lower side ( under the PS bracket )
note s5 up rear plates use a larger thread
PS
you can add your gauge sender to the front plate,, lower side ( under the PS bracket )
Originally Posted by bumpstart
NOT the drain plug -that is in the middle plate and there is very little to tap into,, avoid playing here
,, look at your front plate
sensor seems to fit fine here, and reads perfectly well,, if slightly lower than those whacked in the outlet pipe or thermoneck
-yes- i run with the PS/AC bracket over the top
-didnt need to dislocate the stock dash sender from the rear of the block
-didn't have the issues with s5 block rear tapped point being an odd thread that there is no common cross adapter for
-didnt have issues with the bulb bottomed out before the bush
-did not have issues with it being lazy on the wrong side of the thermostat
( like fittings tapped into the thermo neck or intercepting the top hose )
------------
like i pointed out,, this is the easiest location to get at without stripping the UIM and alt or water pumps to tap the water pump
you simply exchange the plug
,, no need to tap your block
,, the bush required to adapt down to 1/8 NPT that most aftermarket senders are is easily found at any parts shop
and if you have a 70's mazda with a retrofit engine
then you will find the large mazda ( piston ) 3/8 NPT water temp sender threads here directly without bushes
,, look at your front plate
sensor seems to fit fine here, and reads perfectly well,, if slightly lower than those whacked in the outlet pipe or thermoneck
-yes- i run with the PS/AC bracket over the top
-didnt need to dislocate the stock dash sender from the rear of the block
-didn't have the issues with s5 block rear tapped point being an odd thread that there is no common cross adapter for
-didnt have issues with the bulb bottomed out before the bush
-did not have issues with it being lazy on the wrong side of the thermostat
( like fittings tapped into the thermo neck or intercepting the top hose )
------------
like i pointed out,, this is the easiest location to get at without stripping the UIM and alt or water pumps to tap the water pump
you simply exchange the plug
,, no need to tap your block
,, the bush required to adapt down to 1/8 NPT that most aftermarket senders are is easily found at any parts shop
and if you have a 70's mazda with a retrofit engine
then you will find the large mazda ( piston ) 3/8 NPT water temp sender threads here directly without bushes
Hey Bumpstart - I noticed you edited your original post that you quoted and changed the size. You originally posted 1/4NPT. Is it 3/8 NPT on the s4 also? I see Mike said it's 3/8 on the s5 but is s4 the same?
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 131
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From: Colorado
Sorry for the thread revival but Im terrible for planning on doing X, y, Z (and asking the questions) then only getting as far as X. Just now getting around to this so figured itd be better to revive this then start a whole new thread.
Im assuming the spot by the PS bracket has a plug in it normally? Semi related but whats the easiest way to route the wires for the gauges through the firewall and to the middle/left side of dash? (Thinking above the vents or the cover over the factory gauge panel). Unfortunatly even though its a race car Im required to keep the factory dash so have to work around that but still want to make it look nice (aka without wires just ruunning up the front of the dash)
Im assuming the spot by the PS bracket has a plug in it normally? Semi related but whats the easiest way to route the wires for the gauges through the firewall and to the middle/left side of dash? (Thinking above the vents or the cover over the factory gauge panel). Unfortunatly even though its a race car Im required to keep the factory dash so have to work around that but still want to make it look nice (aka without wires just ruunning up the front of the dash)
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