Well, Im getting ready to rebuild an engine, and anyone who has done this or thought of doing this realises that the cheapo engine stand that you can get from advanced auto really doesnt work well with our engines.

I made an adapter to fit my 12a engine on the 750 lbs cheapo engine stand. the stand was 36.99 from advance auto parts. Tested it tonight. Its surprisingly strong. I weigh 210 lbs and this is not a pretty picture but I was standing on the engine while it was attached to the stand. The engine didnt budge and I didnt fall and seriously hurt myself. You can still spin the engine to work on it in all directions.

I was wondering if there might be others interested in purchasing something like this, I was thinking of making more. I know mazdatricks sells one that costs $90.00 I'm thinking mine would be it the 25.00 - 30.00 dollar range.

BOY I hope I dont get banned for this.....
DISCLAIMER
(I'm not selling I'm judging interest in the idea)
(also its for a 12a so I thought 1st gen section would be appropriate)

 

i use a milk crate and a work bench.

the rest is manly muscle. lol.... and a hoist lol

seems like a good idea.. any pics?

 

I just use the arms bolted to the front plate. Two 12mm and two 10mm bolts of the correct length. I had a picture somewhere...

 

I just lined up the four engine stand arms and bolt them to the front steel using rear end bolts. It works great!

 

I'll get some pics up today. Its not a pretty piece but it does the job. Strong like bull...

 

is this something that mounts on the side like the Mazdatrix version so you can tear the engine down and rebuild it, or is it just something to hold the engine?

 

it'll will be like the mazdatrix version except instead of useing the hole in the engine stand it just bolts to the existing plate on the stand. You can spin the engine to work on it in 8 different positions.

 

OK, I took some pictures, please dont laugh too hard at the last one, I look like a great big fool up there. But it shows that it will hold the weight of the engine. Also this is the first one I made so its a little ugly, next ones will be better.

The photos are in the yahoo album last four pictures..

yahoo album

 

lol yea the last one haha. whats all involved in it. looks to work good.

hows it look with out a motor... and what dose it bolt to on the motor?

 

It looks like a rectangle box with four holes on each side. Two pieces of angle iron welded together and three supports along the open side to let you get in and tighten bolts. It attaches to the first plate on the a/c bolts 12mm and the two above that 10 mm. The first plate is the one between the front cover and the forward rotor housing. I used four 1/2 bolts from a harware store to mount it to the engine stand.

 

i bought basically the same thing for $40 bucks from a shop in post falls, idaho. he was sellin em for $90, give it a shot, its easy to make and im sure people will buy it

 

Here is how to set up the arms on an engine stand to work on a rotary (two rotor). It allows access to the plugs and everything! Highly recommended and cheaper than having to buy anything. It's what I used to rebuild my first 13B.

Edit: hmm, the forum is not letting me post a pic. I'll try again later.

 

SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH that wont help me any LOL

 

Well, after someone emailed me with a urgent need for one. After mailing him one I got off my *** and put one up on ebay. So, if your interested, its there to buy. Starts at 20.00. shipped one out today, shipping is $10.35 to Cali. It has a buy it now of 40.00 with free shipping.

 

I assembled an engine last weekend over a spare FB "cross" wheel. No 5 gallon buckets available.

 

i will now be selling 5 gallon buckets on ebay, starting price is $20.00 US, with a buy it now of $50.00...these things are great!!! Made out of white plastic some of them even have cool logos!

 

All These comedians and no votes. Thanks. bought time you chimed in....

 

I'm rebuilding a 13B on my engine stand with all four arms bolted tot he front plate. It worked very nicely.

 

I was playing with a 13B today and I was building it/breaking it down over a CINDER BLOCK! Hahahaha...

Basically anything sturdy enough with a hole for the e-shaft is good. Makes it a bit harder to put the front cover on, but that's alright. Just assemble the engine and put the front cover/oil pan on while it's on the engine hoist, kinda like how you can't put the flywheel on a boinger while it's on the engine stand.

 

hehe, all my motors are on cinder blocks.
I have two stand adapters at my shop the $90 one and one i made from 3 in channel that cost $2, they work just as good.

 

The only things I had to buy were two 10mm x 1.25 bolts. The other two are from the rear suspension of an FB. 12mm x 1.5 I believe.