The manual choke is a separate system not connected to the A/C. Not sure how one could affect the other.

 

As far as I know, A/C fittings are not like air fittings. I've only used A/C fittings that are one piece. (the crimp sleeve is part of the fitting itself) You can cut them off but they are not reusable, you reinstall a complete new fitting. Fittings are available thru a variety of manufactures and part numbers can vary from one mfg to another.

The fittings you require are really determined by the hard components (compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer) that make up the system. If a compressor say, has an O-ring style connection with 1/2 male threads, then you need an O-ring type fitting with 1/2 female thread connection. Sometimes, previous owners can fix or replace items and you might have a mix of connection types, so it pays to look at each component to identify what kind of connection is actually needed.

Things to know: Flare vs. O-ring, they are just two different methods of achieving a solid seal between the hose and component. O-rings came later and became the standard way of sealing the connections. There are also 2 types of hose. Standard barrier and Reduced barrier. The reduced barrier has the same inner diameter as the standard, but the O.D. is smaller in comparison. It's used more in current cars since is bends easier and everything is packaged so tightly nowadays. I've only ever used the Standard barrier hose, but its worth noting because you need to make sure that what ever fittings you choose, also match the type of hose you are also using. Standard barrier hose = standard barrier type fittings and vice/versa.

To keep things simple, I'm going to use a stock SA (79/80) system as an example. First, all the connections in SA's were FLARE TYPE fittings. They did not yet use the O-ring type fittings as they were only integrated on the Rx-7 beginning in 1981. It was also all Standard barrier type hose/fittings.

There are 3 different thread sizes used, each thread size can also be identified by a numerical value. 3/8 (#6), 1/2 (#8) and 5/8 (#10)
Manufactures will often call out the numerical value (6,8,10) when identifying the fitting size, not the fractional thread size. Each size of fitting also requires a different inside diameter (I.D.) hose for a proper fit. 3/8 fittings use a 5/16 (8mm) I.D. hose, 1/2 fittings use a 13/32 (10mm) I.D. hose and 5/8 fittings use 1/2 (13mm) I.D. hose. Have I lost you yet? It's not that bad.

Starting at the compressor and going forward to the top of the condenser. Both components have 1/2 male threaded connections, so it requires a flare type, #8 female fitting. You also must choose a shape. In this case both fittings need to be a 90 degree shape. This is the high pressure line and if you were only replacing one line, I'd recommend replacing this one. Unfortunately its also the most difficult one to replace. This hose is 13/32 (10mm) I.D. and needs to be 38" in length.

Next, the bottom connection of the condenser to the inlet of the dryer are both 3/8 male connections, and requires flare type #6 female fittings, again both 90 degrees. The hose is 5/16 (8mm) I.D. and 15 inches in length.

Coming out of the dryer and going back to the evaporator connection at the firewall, these are again both 3/8 male connections, requiring flare type #6 female fittings, but this time they are both straight (180 degree) in shape! The hose is again 5/16 (8mm) but 63 inches in length.

The last hose is also the largest and connects the evaporator back to the compressor. Both components have 5/8 male connections requiring flare type #10 female fittings. You can use 90 degree fittings at both ends but the one at the evaporator (firewall) is actually bent a little more than 90 degrees to angle it slightly back towards the firewall. I've used a hand tube bender to slightly tweak more bend into a 90 degree fitting here. The hose is 1/2 (13mm) and 33 inches long.

Couple of last notes, I imagine some fittings could be longer or shorter than others and could affect the length of the hoses a little. My lengths were listed as just the hose only and did not include the added reach of the fittings. Use them only as a rough guide for ordering in bulk. Also, all these fittings require some kind of crimper. They make hand held ones, some with a hydraulic pump which makes crimping much easier, but more expensive if you're buying the crimper yourself.

 

Thank you for that! I have an SA and the A/C is indeed Flare so this is a great resource to have. There is a local company that makes lines but I was afraid they'd either not have the ends and unable to make them or reuse the existing. I should call them but I made my own oil lines with AN-fittings so I figure if I could do that, A/C lines should be about the same experience.

Thank you again!

 

I have the A/C wiring installed , but there is an problem.
the fuse op the chocke/hot start blows.
this one



I wonder if there is a wrong connection.

these 2 are different colors in my car?


anybody has a picture where it is Connect in the car?
The colors of these wires in my car are blue green but one is blue black in my car:
late 1979 car



i measure plus + power on every connection wire to the ac relai.is that normal?
exept the wire to the ac pump.
Alsno not whene ac button is pushed.

 

Here is a car that is also a late production 79. (3/79). There are two blue / black wires going to a blue and a blue / green going to a green.



Here is the relay on the fender.




There is a learning curve with the hardware nomenclature but the actual fabrication of the hoses is ridiculously easy. Flare Seal also make coated copper washers in different sizes, that mount on the actual flared sealing surface to help seal gouged or damaged seal surfaces. Might be overkill, but I use them on new fittings as well.

 

Interesting. My 1980 SA (very late 80 serial number) has O-ring fittings for the AC components all around except for the pipe fittings on the condensor. My AC is factory installed as well.

 

That is interesting. I know you've owned your car almost from new. I suppose they could have changed things over earlier than I mentioned and thought. I know my 80 (577104) Mfg 8/79 is all flare's.

So your car has 2 hoses that have an O-ring fitting on one end and a flare fitting on the other?

 

Hears a pic of my hoses when I was redoing the AC. The tape on the one hose is to reattach so the new hoses could be made using the old hose which I had to cut to get off easily for the project. The new hoses are the thinner wall, modern stuff which made it a lot easier to route about. I think my car was built in the fall of 1980, so it has some odd ball differences in some minor details (wiring mostly) that show up as standard in 81 models.

 

found it , the one on the relaiy from hot start was mixed up with one for the A-C relais.

never had issues funny enough with the hot start, but now when I pushed the A-C button , the fuse blew.

so issue found.

 

Which POE oil do you all use?

I have a new compressor so I must fill it up with something.

 

Have you checked to see if the compressor already contains oil? Not sure it would be assembled completely dry or that it didn't include a separate bottle of recommended oil.

Compressor msg's will recommend equivalents to their own oil brand. Not sure that the exact brand or grade of oil makes that much difference but you need the right type, so that it's compatible with the refrigerant you are using. R-134 uses PAG oil which is not compatible with R-12 or 152. Mixing those creates a gel that will clog up the system.

You need a Mineral oil for R-12 and / or R-152. Or, there are some synthetic Ester lubricants that are compatible with all the refrigerants. You car also get some that are pre-dyed for easier leak detection.

 

Thank you all for the answer.
finally got the ac working. I used a old relai bought on eBay bij riggs rotary.
but this one emptyed the battery over night.
It did not switch of somehow.

no I place a modern relay and all is ok.

i just have one question , in europe we only have one solenoid on the ‘rats nest’.
My Engine rpm goes down like 400 rpm stationary whene I switch on the ac
so i wonder if we miss the solenoid for the ac.
ore what should change the rpm with ac on.

could anyone show witch part should change the rpm with the ac on?

thanks so,far.

 

The simple answer is: the electrical relay on the fender should energize a solenoid in the rats nest that supplies a vacuum to the carburetor which slightly raises the engine RPM when the A/C switch is turned on. That being said there are a few moving parts in that whole affair that need to happen correctly.

North American SA's had anywhere from 2 to 4 solenoids in the emissions rack depending on year and model. JDM cars normally had 3 or 4. I believe that regardless of which variant, the solenoid with the White dot was always the A/C solenoid.


I'm not as familiar with European cars and you don't say where you are but I believe Mazda imported cars to both the UK and Belgium so I assume your car fell under one of those Import requirements. Regardless, I'd think that you're A/C should also operate off a White Dot solenoid. I've never saw a configuration with only a single solenoid. Has your car been modified?

Here are a couple pages from the 80 A/C manual which describes both the operation and how to check the solenoid for proper operation. That sill leaves the relay, carb diaphragm and A/C switch itself as possible failure points.

 

I see.
Thank you for this manual. European do not have it. Maybe the swiss cars only.
whe miss al lot of these emission and vacuüm switches original.
My car is original ,traded it in from a old lady back in 2004.
she as first owner.
I only added the AC and a strut brace I have put on.
we only have the blue dot solenoid.

No air vent solenoid.
no throttle opener units 1984 model.
i think I try to find the white solenoid. I do meassure a few volts on the connector where the white solenoid should be.

 

Thats a new one on me. Never ceases to amaze me the new things you learn and see on here. You might need a different set of piping to the emissions rack as well. The spacer under the carb is the source of the vacuum. It should have multiple mounting nipples coming out from the side facing the rack. The rack is connected the spacer by a series of vacuum tubes connected to the nipples coming off the side of the spacer. Since you only have one solenoid, some of the nipples may be capped off.

The piping routes the vacuum to the appropriate solenoid where they connect by another rubber vacuum hose. So when the solenoid get the electrical signal, the plunger inside shifts to one side, thereby plugging the vent to atmosphere path and connecting the vacuum signal to the carb. (see that previous page on operation)

Without the proper piping, supplying a vacuum signal to the solenoid, the electrical signal will have no affect. Looks like you can mount another solenoid. Maybe you can just run a longer vacuum hose from the solenoid inlet to the proper nipple off the side of the spacer? Does that make sense?