1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Very peculiar (almost) overheating

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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 04:00 PM
  #26  
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From: eau claire
I am with Kentetsu. Put that damn shroud back on there. Also if you want a 160 thermo i have the old mazda comp one here i got new from atkins!
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 04:04 PM
  #27  
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Don't think it needs to be SA. Anything 79-82 should do just fine.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 04:45 PM
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The stock FB shroud was too large, so I butchered it and used some precision mounting hardware that allowed for the smaller mounts for the SA rad to join to the larger FB shroud (zip ties) and a bolt and a new hole in the shroud.

I'll be damned if that wasn't it.

Sorry I ever doubted you guys. It's not that the fan was needing to do work, it was the shroud better channeling the air.

It's kind of what I expected, though. I just didn't think it would be so easy to do what I did. Redneck engineering.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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Pics?
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 06:18 PM
  #30  
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Both the shroud and the undertray are quite important in maintaining cooling efficiency. The other factor is the grille opening isn't all that large to begin with, so what air does come through needs to be correctly funneled through the radiator.

As an example, I installed a 1200 cfm e-fan in my 2nd gen. Front end and body work is stock and the engine ran way too hot in summer stop and go traffic. On the widebody, I modified the width of the grille opening to maximize air flow. I'm running that same 1200 cfm fan all year long with the 12A 1/2 bp and have not had any overheating problems. I do watch the temps closely with an aftermarket temp gauge.

I certainly don't recommend going with this small of a fan. Frankly I'm suprised I've gotten away with it so far and do plan on upgrading to a higher flowing fan soon. For stock bodywork, the 1200 cfm fan pulls about 1/2 of the air that's needed.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 10:51 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ray green
Pics?
Ask and ye shall receive.


....Tomorrow.


Originally Posted by trochoid
Both the shroud and the undertray are quite important in maintaining cooling efficiency. The other factor is the grille opening isn't all that large to begin with, so what air does come through needs to be correctly funneled through the radiator.
Yeah, the undertray is a project. I wire wheeled it, put that rust enamel paint stuff on it, and then sprayed undercoat on it. I figure if the undercoat doesn't work out, I can always remove it.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 11:22 PM
  #32  
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I changed my mind and took pictures.



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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 11:38 PM
  #33  
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i guess my $.02 was worth a little more than $.02
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 11:50 PM
  #34  
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Yup. I ate my words, my foot, and crow.
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 10:04 AM
  #35  
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The tstat checks out? Does that mean you tested it on the stove in a pot of water while measuring the water temp? Is it an OEM tstat? Was it mounted with the jiggle stick up?
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 02:03 PM
  #36  
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Brand new Mazda t stat, jiggle pin up, purchased and installed last October, removed and checks out.

I have 4 more Mazda oil filters, as well.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 05:46 PM
  #37  
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So I started having the problems again, and I'm positive there is also an electrical gremlin. An interesting thing was happening, where it would run "hot", I'd raise the revs to heaven and then it would "cool off."

That stopped happening.

So, I decided I'd fix the water pump, and since I was in the whole system, install a mechanical gauge. Couldn't find a good spot in the water pump housing, so I went to the t-stat housing.

Excelsior!! The stock electrical gauge is jacked.

Thanks for all the ideas and thoughts, guys!
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 06:19 PM
  #38  
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Electrical Gremlin Cure:

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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 06:48 PM
  #39  
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Ray, did you consider putting that sensor near the rear iron or beehive? I'd think you wouldn't be able to see the car warm up, but rather you'd see it shoot up once the thermostat opens. If you have a stuck thermostat, your dead-reliable gauge might give you the wrong idea.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 07:45 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Crit
Ray, did you consider putting that sensor near the rear iron or beehive? I'd think you wouldn't be able to see the car warm up, but rather you'd see it shoot up once the thermostat opens. If you have a stuck thermostat, your dead-reliable gauge might give you the wrong idea.
I take a little solace in the fact I can now tell that the t-stat is opening. If I don't see that thing move, I know the t-stat is stuck.

Unfortunately, with my schedule, I'm not given the time to properly do everything.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 07:47 PM
  #41  
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Been there done that Crit, it's all superstition.

After all, that little Sunpro is just there to keep the electrical stock gauge honest.

The stock gauge (which has never failed on any of my four GSLs, the problem has always been a ground) pokes in the engine right by the beehive, so if the t'stat gauge is F'ing up, the stocker should tell the story.

I'm assuming of course that the chances of the t'stat and the stock gauge screwing up on the same day are very slim.

But you never know, McCain might get elected.

I hear that sticking the after market mechanical probe in the water pump housing is a good idea. I'm going to try that with my second opinion Sunpro mechanical gauge for the Silver One.

Did you hear I got that little sunpro sucker out of the bargain bin at Advanced for $8.00?
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:11 PM
  #42  
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I just can't/couldn't find a good spot, that was sort of out of the way for the mech gauge.
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 02:47 AM
  #43  
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mccain is better than osama....
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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 06:19 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 1983GSP
mccain is better than osama....
Most people are better than Osama, but that is neither here nor there.


Oh, wait, you're making a crack at Obama. Now I must wait for the Hussein part, right?

No.

Obvious troll stays off my topics.
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