Urgent!! Avoiding disaster...
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Owasso, OK
Urgent!! Avoiding disaster...
Part 1 - The Potential Disaster:
I was piddling under the hood of my car this morning when I discovered the metal fuel line at the firewall was leaking. It's leaking a little ways before the rubber hose under one of the clamps holding it to the firewall. Some of the fuel is leaking onto the hot oil lines near the oil cooler. I really don't want to run all new rubber lines from the fuel pump under the car. Do you guys think I could just cut the metal tubing behind the leak and get a longer rubber line to reach a little further, do you think I could wrap it in something, or will I have to run new line?
Part 2 - The Common Problem:
I've noticed alot of "Help with Mikuni" threads lately and I had a few of my own way back when. This has inspired me to try to fix mine since I still haven't. Here are the problems as detailed as I can get them:
I was piddling under the hood of my car this morning when I discovered the metal fuel line at the firewall was leaking. It's leaking a little ways before the rubber hose under one of the clamps holding it to the firewall. Some of the fuel is leaking onto the hot oil lines near the oil cooler. I really don't want to run all new rubber lines from the fuel pump under the car. Do you guys think I could just cut the metal tubing behind the leak and get a longer rubber line to reach a little further, do you think I could wrap it in something, or will I have to run new line?
Part 2 - The Common Problem:
I've noticed alot of "Help with Mikuni" threads lately and I had a few of my own way back when. This has inspired me to try to fix mine since I still haven't. Here are the problems as detailed as I can get them:
First. When driving on local roads I can't hold anywhere over 3k RPMs or it will sputter and slow just a tad. The further away from 3k I get the lesser it gets. On highways it does the same thing, but since it's higher RPMs and speed it does it less. I believe it's due to the butterfly valves being open just enough to let too much fuel or not enough airt through causing a way too rich mixture. I have no way of verifying this, but that's what I've heard about before. I also know that I am all ready running rich since my right side light assembly turns black every 20 miles or so with unburned fuel. My current jetting for the jet block is 240 main air jet and 200 main fuel jet. Should I go with a larger main air jet or a smaller fuel jet?
Second. When I slam the gas pedal I get a lack of fuel like I would without an accelerator pump, except I have one. It seems that the diaphram on my accelerator pump is always depressed like it's supposed to be only when I slam the gas pedal. I've tried rotating the lever around the throttle bar and there's not a better position. I've also tried adjusting the arm with the spring that activates the diaphram lever. That also didn't work. I sure could use a good pic of hte accelerator pump assembly and linkages to see what a good one looks like. This part I'm not entirely sure of; it's been a long time since I worked on it. I'm going to check it out again real quick and either edit this section or post a new reply with up-to-date information.
Second. When I slam the gas pedal I get a lack of fuel like I would without an accelerator pump, except I have one. It seems that the diaphram on my accelerator pump is always depressed like it's supposed to be only when I slam the gas pedal. I've tried rotating the lever around the throttle bar and there's not a better position. I've also tried adjusting the arm with the spring that activates the diaphram lever. That also didn't work. I sure could use a good pic of hte accelerator pump assembly and linkages to see what a good one looks like. This part I'm not entirely sure of; it's been a long time since I worked on it. I'm going to check it out again real quick and either edit this section or post a new reply with up-to-date information.
Too old to act my age
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,164
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From: Tulsa, Ok.
As for the first issue, you should be able to cut the metal line, and add a longer rubber hose. Heck, you could even just cut it right at the leak, and use a short piece of rubber hose as a splice, by simply cutting out the section with the hole.
As for the carb issues, I don't know much about that carb, but most accel pumps use a spring to return it to the "idle" position. Is this item setup correctly?
As for the carb issues, I don't know much about that carb, but most accel pumps use a spring to return it to the "idle" position. Is this item setup correctly?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 530
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From: Owasso, OK
I looked further into the Accel. Pump problem. I think when I rebuilt the carb I somehow changed the linkage a bit. This is how it looked when I got it:
It's no longer like that. The spring is soo compressed that it's always pushing on the diaphram lever. I'm going to take the carb off and work on it sometime. Maybe Saturday or Sunday afternoon. But knowing me it'll probably be a few weeks before I get to it. I really need to get this all fixed before the Quad State meet. I know camocarl and some others will have some advice...
It's no longer like that. The spring is soo compressed that it's always pushing on the diaphram lever. I'm going to take the carb off and work on it sometime. Maybe Saturday or Sunday afternoon. But knowing me it'll probably be a few weeks before I get to it. I really need to get this all fixed before the Quad State meet. I know camocarl and some others will have some advice...
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 530
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From: Owasso, OK
I fixed the accelerator pump linkage. The butterfly valve shaft was in backwards so the linkage was in the wrong position. I had to remove the butterfly valves, pull the shaft out, and reinster teh shaft the other way. Now when the throttle is opened the accel. pump linkage presses on the diaphram releasing a little more fuel for better throttle response. I haven't fixed the fuel line problem yet because I need to jack the car up for that. Hopefully I won't have to start the tuning over again since the accel. pump was working incorrectly all this time.
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