Currently running stock ignition on 12A, any benefit to upgrading to Blaster coils. If so do you have to change anything else in system if you upgrade the coils?

Car has RB street port system and "fat" Nikki carb.

 

May not notice much difference unless the oe coils are weak. Search DFIDLIS=Direct fire dual leading ignition system,several threads,several variations of it. You will notice better starting,driveability(throttle response) and a little more power. It'll perfectly complement mods you've already done. All pros,no cons except you can't buy and bolt on,you have to build it yourself. Not real complicated,not a big expense in parts/materials.
To answer your original question,no you don't have to change anything else in system to use the blaster coils,make sure your cap/rotor/plugs & wires are up to snuff.
FWIW,for what you're going to spend on those blaster coils,for less money you could do the DFI conversion using your oe coils,a pair of HEI modules,some wires connectors. Only other expense would be for about 6'of spark plug wire and terminals and boots to make your own wires. As noted before,you will notice a big difference on 1st test drive after doing the conversion. Money & time well spent.

 

Is there a write up on this DFI conversion?

 

Look in my sig for the link.

 

I'm not sure there's any benefit to Blaster (or any other aftermarket coil) over the OEM Diamond coils. Coils are transformers, and good transformers use oil to cool them. Unfortunately, the good oil was environmentally nasty stuff, so the coil makers either sent them to 3rd world countries for manufacture or switched to epoxy (like MSD Blaster), or both.

Effective cooling of the coil is key, and epoxy isn't as effective as oil. Yes, epoxy is very resistant to vibration, but that won't matter if you cook the windings.

Aftermarket vendors throw out a lot of interesting specs, which are often misleading or inaccurate.

I'm redoing my ignition system, and I'm using New Old Stock OEM Diamond coils.

I had a very good explanation of all this from a retired GM ignition engineer. He posted it to a forum, and I'll add it here if I can find it.

 

Quick question about coils , on the left side of the coil ( facing the driver side fender toward the engine ) there are two cables attached to it, MY CAR has only one cable attached to the coil on the left with the other cable blocked off. Why?

 

It would appear you're talking about trailing ignition coil,no good reason it would be disconnected... car will start and run without trailing ignition. Post a pic of disconnected coil and wiring?

 

We need a pic or start another thread. Like Mike says, sounds like trailing is disconnected.

 

Diamond coils here with DLIDFIS and stock ignitors.

 

I used two high vibration blaster coils for my Dual Leading Ignition Direct Fire setup and then used 2 Petronix 4 Pin GM style HEI modules and it worked great. Trailing I just used the stock igniter and a Petronix flamethrower coil. Mounted the direct fire coils in the stock location and the leading coil on the side of the shock tower. Put the aluminum plate with the HEI modules right where the hot start actuator used to be. The car ran beautifully after that.

 

Nice to hear about an HEI success out there.

 

Do they usually not run that well? I don't have the car anymore but the guy who has it still swears by it, and even fixed the carb I stripped for him (people who had it before me put a gasket in backwards.)

I also made my own Taylor Wires and ran some fresh NGK plugs.

I'm planning on doing the same setup on my 6 port 13B miata setup.

 

On the contrary, they are usually very robust and run well. Obvoulsy I'm a fan of the setup

 

I am pretty sure I used some of your writeup when I was researching it.

It works so well I'm going to do the same with my S5 13B miata swap.

 

Found it --> Best Ignition Coil? - Chevelle Tech