update: intake o rings
01-31-07, 05:20 PM
#26
Ok guys. I think I'll just restart and just use the o rings instead of getting freeze plugs. It shouln't take me that long since i've done it like three times now, lol. I Don't think I'll start today, Not feeling like working on her right now. I don't know. I'll keep you guys updated while im in the process and the final turnout. Oh ya, all of the old gasket was off and I put sealant(hi temp) on the engine block(small coat) and the same on manifold. I think that should be fine. Thanks again for the info all of you guys. God bless.
02-02-07, 02:58 PM
#28
Ok guys everything is back together, filled up coolant. All ready. Just have to start her and hope for no leaks. Wish me luck guys. I'll start her later and let you guys know. O rings are in there great, so that shouldn't be the problem if there is a problem
02-02-07, 09:23 PM
#29
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Good luck, Twink.
I'm not certain I have to do this again on the 85GSL, it seems to start and run OK now. I'll watch for coolant loss and diminished pressure in the morning after sitting all night.
I'm not certain I have to do this again on the 85GSL, it seems to start and run OK now. I'll watch for coolant loss and diminished pressure in the morning after sitting all night.
02-03-07, 08:06 PM
#30
Hey thanks man^. I finished yesterday or something. I forgot. So i started her up sounded good choke fully out went up to about2.8k rpm after 15 seconds pushed it back in halfway, same rpm, after awhile then, fully in(choke) still at about same rpm. looked for leaks, nothing. Took her out for a spin around the block real slow. throttle response was weird. Then died when let off gas. Everything was connected. hoses, etc. so I got her up again and put her back in and turned her off. Had to go, went quading with buds. after I turned her off, I saw a leak(drip) under the intake manifold on the ground. I had the o rings in there for good. Positive they were in there. spent 15 minutes on making sure. hylomar and everything. tightened nuts and bolts as trochoid said they should. Sorry so long, just trying to describe as best as possible. Im about to roll the 7 off grand canyon or something. Notreally, but i fell like it not being able to drive my baby. I don't feel like doing it again cause it was good(positive).
02-03-07, 08:16 PM
#31
Vacuum leak, and since you have a drip, chances are it's between the intake mani and engine. If you've been doing this with the carb still attached, you may have teaked one of the cables to the carb or broke one of the vacuum lines. Practice makes perfect, lol. Check your intake gasket when you pull it apart again. You may have damaged it.
02-03-07, 08:23 PM
#32
Mayb i'll just take the stinking thing to a rotary guy I know who has a shop here. I don't know. I jsut want to drive the dang thing by know. Its been like 2 months for just taking swithching o rings and the gasket. The last time I took it off the gasket looked ok( i guess).How much would you guys think an estimate would be for letting jim mazurek(rotary mechanic here) to do the job. Im tired, 15 and just don't like my back hurting from leaning over all the time
02-04-07, 06:08 PM
#34
bump, I guess the gasket was screwed up i kinda remember. What the heck? Can i get a gasket at autozone or something? I don't want to order again. Oh ya, o ringquestion. Say you're bending over looking(down) at the engine block and the o rings are in. Are they supposed to be sticking out a little?
02-04-07, 07:24 PM
#35
Bump, im freaking done with the 7. If the guy that works on rotaries here doesn't get her running properly im going to like put like a grenade in the car im so pissed off. not really. shes a pain in the butt. Maybe while im at it i'll just get the engine rebuilt or something. ughhhhhh. How much do you guys think it would cost for the rotary mechanic to do this job? Anybody?
02-04-07, 11:14 PM
#36
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About a year ago a local mazda guy quoted me $150 for replacing the orings, but before I could take him up on it he closed shop and moved to Panama.
I figure that about $300 to replace the orings is right. Looks like 4 hrs work at $75, maybe.
The one that I've done, on my 85GSL, I had my guy "R" do as part of training him to maintain my cars, but, in the end I had to dump R because he never did things the way I told him to (didn't put parts in the clear plastic parts box, didn't label hoses and electrical connectors, then tore things madly apart in the belief he'd be able to figure out later how to put them back together, etc., etc.). He couldn't get the car running when he was done, nand the hoses were obviously wrong, so I had to debug it. I got it running for him, but next time it wouldn't start he had a crackpot notion that the timing gear had broken a tooth and the chain was skipping, etc., etc., etc., That car still isn't running right, but I got it running good when warm so I can drive it 20 miles to an RX-7 expert for service.
Sometimes it pays to hire a consultant. If he's experienced, thoughtful and understands engineering theories. Trial and error is no substitute for understanding the theory.
I figure that about $300 to replace the orings is right. Looks like 4 hrs work at $75, maybe.
The one that I've done, on my 85GSL, I had my guy "R" do as part of training him to maintain my cars, but, in the end I had to dump R because he never did things the way I told him to (didn't put parts in the clear plastic parts box, didn't label hoses and electrical connectors, then tore things madly apart in the belief he'd be able to figure out later how to put them back together, etc., etc.). He couldn't get the car running when he was done, nand the hoses were obviously wrong, so I had to debug it. I got it running for him, but next time it wouldn't start he had a crackpot notion that the timing gear had broken a tooth and the chain was skipping, etc., etc., etc., That car still isn't running right, but I got it running good when warm so I can drive it 20 miles to an RX-7 expert for service.
Sometimes it pays to hire a consultant. If he's experienced, thoughtful and understands engineering theories. Trial and error is no substitute for understanding the theory.
02-05-07, 03:18 PM
#37
Ok, I'm just going to do restart it again untill i do it right. I hate quitting. Thats who i am. I guess i'll keep going till i get it right. So i'll just get a new intake manifold gasket. I'll check for vacuum leaks too trochoid. Oh ya, the little vaccum hose that goes to the idle compensator in the stock air cleaner. The metal thing that the hose goes onto into the rats nest is a little bent. That wouldn't hurt anything right?
02-05-07, 06:47 PM
#39
Originally Posted by twinkletoes
There's a intake manifold gasket a guy can get in 1 day from the warehouse. The brand is beck/arnley though. Does that matter?
02-09-07, 04:48 PM
#40
Ok, checkers ended up not having the gasket at the warehouse, So i went to mazdatrix. I also broke the coolant/water level sensor on top of the radiator. Ordered those form mazdatrix on wednesday and got them in today. Mazdatrix is excellent. Prolly install new intake manifold gasket tomorrow and take my time to make sure its right. I'll ask questions along the way to know for sure everything is right. Pray for me and the 7 that she'll be ready to roll by sunday. I hope so, I freaking miss manual
02-10-07, 02:05 PM
#43
How will plugging holes help? Then the coolant will not be able to flow through right? Well, before i was going to start i started the car and seemed pretty good. Then white smoke(burning coolant) came from the exhaust manifold. Coolant fell on the exhaust manifold im sure because of it. I then turned it off when i saw the smoke. looked under the car and it was dripping coolant in one spot like a drip per 5 seconds. So, should I still restart?
02-10-07, 06:08 PM
#44
Originally Posted by twinkletoes
Hey thanks man^. I finished yesterday or something. I forgot. So i started her up sounded good choke fully out went up to about2.8k rpm after 15 seconds pushed it back in halfway, same rpm, after awhile then, fully in(choke) still at about same rpm. looked for leaks, nothing. Took her out for a spin around the block real slow. throttle response was weird. Then died when let off gas. Everything was connected. hoses, etc. so I got her up again and put her back in and turned her off. Had to go, went quading with buds. after I turned her off, I saw a leak(drip) under the intake manifold on the ground. I had the o rings in there for good. Positive they were in there. spent 15 minutes on making sure. hylomar and everything. tightened nuts and bolts as trochoid said they should. Sorry so long, just trying to describe as best as possible. Im about to roll the 7 off grand canyon or something. Notreally, but i fell like it not being able to drive my baby. I don't feel like doing it again cause it was good(positive).
Jon
02-10-07, 06:33 PM
#45
Think of it this way.. how many times have you had to remove the manifold so far? two? three?
If you had put plugs the first time, you wouldn't have lost coolant those other times. You wouldn't have had that mess, and removing/reinstalling would have been so much easier. My mani is on there with just the gasket. The mating surfaces were cleaned well enough that the gasket did its job and filled in the gaps, no goop, no hylomar, no mess. I can remove my mani whenever and not have a problem (though I usually get a new gasket every time it comes off and spend some quality time scraping the gasket material from around the secondaries becuase it really cakes on there).
The lack of coolant going through your manifold won't affect the cooling of your engine one iota, and won't affect performance. The only difference is that your maifold may take an extra minute to warm to operating temp, *maybe*, and that *might*, *maybe* affect emissions throughout that minute a little bit.
Honestly, it's not enough to even worry about in that circumstance.
and for the ability to easily remove the mani whenever, it's worth it.
Jon
If you had put plugs the first time, you wouldn't have lost coolant those other times. You wouldn't have had that mess, and removing/reinstalling would have been so much easier. My mani is on there with just the gasket. The mating surfaces were cleaned well enough that the gasket did its job and filled in the gaps, no goop, no hylomar, no mess. I can remove my mani whenever and not have a problem (though I usually get a new gasket every time it comes off and spend some quality time scraping the gasket material from around the secondaries becuase it really cakes on there).
The lack of coolant going through your manifold won't affect the cooling of your engine one iota, and won't affect performance. The only difference is that your maifold may take an extra minute to warm to operating temp, *maybe*, and that *might*, *maybe* affect emissions throughout that minute a little bit.
Honestly, it's not enough to even worry about in that circumstance.
and for the ability to easily remove the mani whenever, it's worth it.
Jon
02-10-07, 07:30 PM
#46
Good info as usaual Jon. I appreciate it. Well while you wrote this i was working on her. Got everything on there right with my dads buds helping me who is building a camaro from scratch. So, good knowledge with me we finished and started her. No leaks, YES, then take it out for a little spin, and add coolant alarm goes off in the neighborhood. Pulled over and turned it off. THen there was a hose(metal that is next to the passenger strut tower. THe thick one, it had a bend in it and i felt it and coolant was leaking from it. This is the problem now. The intake manifold wasn't leaking, only the metal thick hose. I'll just get that fixed and hopefully be ready by next week. I'll check into the freeze plugs next time i ever have to mess wiht the intake manifold jon, thanks for the info. God bless guys/gals
02-11-07, 12:27 PM
#47
Bump, ok guys, here is where the coolant/water leak is, its the big thick metal line. Its leaking where the kink is in it on the bottom side. here's the pic. 
for an idea of where it is.
How hard would it be to replace it? other than this leak, there is no other coolant leak like before between the manifold and engine block, thanks for helping me through this guys, god bless you all
for an idea of where it is.
How hard would it be to replace it? other than this leak, there is no other coolant leak like before between the manifold and engine block, thanks for helping me through this guys, god bless you all
