update: intake o rings
01-29-07, 10:02 PM
#1
update: intake o rings
Ok, couldn't think of title but this works. some of you know my problem to those who don't, heres the info
I found a puddle of coolant one day under the carb right on the intake manifold and engine. Was told the intake o rings were bad, got new gasket and o rings. Turned out the one o ring were it was leaking was busted.
Installed new o rings and gasket. got thermostat for the overheating problem. Installed everything, connected everything up added coolant and all, and tried to start her. By this time, shes been sitting for prolly about 2 months(almost). Put the gas pedal to the floor a few times and pulled choke and tried to start her. Flooded. deflooded it, spark plugs were wet pretty good. Put them back in and it flooded again. Then i got her started. Let her run for about 8 minutes or so, blowing white smoke, cleaning up everything form sitting. Went away after warm and then I noticed the engine bay smoking, Turned it off. I looked under the car and coolant was leaking from somewhere. Checked everything was hooked up again and all fine. The white smoke was coming from around the carb(left side of carb if in car). I don't know whats up. Any ideas. I tighend up maifold all good. I don't understand. Oh ya, one time when the carb was off, It wasn't totally straight up once. Kinda leaned over. Then I saw some clear fluid coming out of a whole in the carb where i think a hose would connect. Sorry so long, just want to drive stick again and my 7 in general.
I found a puddle of coolant one day under the carb right on the intake manifold and engine. Was told the intake o rings were bad, got new gasket and o rings. Turned out the one o ring were it was leaking was busted.
Installed new o rings and gasket. got thermostat for the overheating problem. Installed everything, connected everything up added coolant and all, and tried to start her. By this time, shes been sitting for prolly about 2 months(almost). Put the gas pedal to the floor a few times and pulled choke and tried to start her. Flooded. deflooded it, spark plugs were wet pretty good. Put them back in and it flooded again. Then i got her started. Let her run for about 8 minutes or so, blowing white smoke, cleaning up everything form sitting. Went away after warm and then I noticed the engine bay smoking, Turned it off. I looked under the car and coolant was leaking from somewhere. Checked everything was hooked up again and all fine. The white smoke was coming from around the carb(left side of carb if in car). I don't know whats up. Any ideas. I tighend up maifold all good. I don't understand. Oh ya, one time when the carb was off, It wasn't totally straight up once. Kinda leaned over. Then I saw some clear fluid coming out of a whole in the carb where i think a hose would connect. Sorry so long, just want to drive stick again and my 7 in general.
01-29-07, 10:15 PM
#2
just to let u know no liquid should leak out of the carb unless its a fuel hose/area related
iv put a carb gasket on wrong above the spacer plate and it caused gas to come out of the vaccum lines
wipe down around ur manifold and run the car look for leaks because some times the o rings can fall a lil while installin the manifold when u tighten up it can pinch the rubber and not seal
but only other clear liquard besides water is gass so be carfull
iv put a carb gasket on wrong above the spacer plate and it caused gas to come out of the vaccum lines
wipe down around ur manifold and run the car look for leaks because some times the o rings can fall a lil while installin the manifold when u tighten up it can pinch the rubber and not seal
but only other clear liquard besides water is gass so be carfull
01-30-07, 03:36 PM
#5
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Keep in touch here on the forum. I may have a similar problem since I replaced the same orings and gasket about a month ago, or rather, I had an Apprentice Mechanic do it. I'm afraid he cut a corner someplace: he's not as careful or studious as me.
01-30-07, 04:10 PM
#7
I would verify that coolant is actually leaking before you tear apart again. Could it have been coolant that spilled on top of the exhaust manifold from the removal? Did the level go down?
Also a tip. I do not refill the cooling system with coolant until I have verified that there are no leaks after performing a repair that drains the coolant. This way I don't have to worry about trying to save the coolant if I have to go back into the system.
Also a tip. I do not refill the cooling system with coolant until I have verified that there are no leaks after performing a repair that drains the coolant. This way I don't have to worry about trying to save the coolant if I have to go back into the system.
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01-30-07, 04:17 PM
#8
Get a pair of 20mm freeze plugs (little metal things used on engines to cap coolant holes, any engine shop will know what you mean and any import-rebuilding engine shop will have 'em for like fifty cents each)
Tap those into the coolant holes on your rotor housings where your manifold attaches. It won't interrupt any critical coolant flow for the engine, but it'll prevent leaky problems when removing the manifold. You'll be able to remove and replace the manifold without leaking a drop of coolant, so if you get an aftermarket carb or ported manifold you'll be able to mount it no problem. Also, it'll stop hot coolant from coursing through your manifold, which *might* bring your intake charge down a degree or two.
It's the best way to go, I've got mine done that way. That should solve your problem really well, if that's where you're leaking from.
Jon
Tap those into the coolant holes on your rotor housings where your manifold attaches. It won't interrupt any critical coolant flow for the engine, but it'll prevent leaky problems when removing the manifold. You'll be able to remove and replace the manifold without leaking a drop of coolant, so if you get an aftermarket carb or ported manifold you'll be able to mount it no problem. Also, it'll stop hot coolant from coursing through your manifold, which *might* bring your intake charge down a degree or two.
It's the best way to go, I've got mine done that way. That should solve your problem really well, if that's where you're leaking from.
Jon
01-30-07, 06:30 PM
#10
When I replace intake gaskets and o-rings I use some high temperature gasket silicone for added sealing.
I dont slop it on very much I just do a skim coating on the gasket, and use it to hold the O-rings in place.
It is critical that you clean both the intake manifold, and the block every time (especially if you use silicone..only drawback). Gunk on either will lead to problems. Scrape it until its shiny lol.
Also, Finally when installing it just be carefull to put it on the studs straight, It also works best to tighten the 2 more central nuts before the bolts.
I dont slop it on very much I just do a skim coating on the gasket, and use it to hold the O-rings in place.
It is critical that you clean both the intake manifold, and the block every time (especially if you use silicone..only drawback). Gunk on either will lead to problems. Scrape it until its shiny lol.
Also, Finally when installing it just be carefull to put it on the studs straight, It also works best to tighten the 2 more central nuts before the bolts.
01-30-07, 07:20 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Gen1onr
When I replace intake gaskets and o-rings I use some high temperature gasket silicone for added sealing.
I dont slop it on very much I just do a skim coating on the gasket, and use it to hold the O-rings in place.
It is critical that you clean both the intake manifold, and the block every time (especially if you use silicone..only drawback). Gunk on either will lead to problems. Scrape it until its shiny lol.
Also, Finally when installing it just be carefull to put it on the studs straight, It also works best to tighten the 2 more central nuts before the bolts.
I dont slop it on very much I just do a skim coating on the gasket, and use it to hold the O-rings in place.
It is critical that you clean both the intake manifold, and the block every time (especially if you use silicone..only drawback). Gunk on either will lead to problems. Scrape it until its shiny lol.
Also, Finally when installing it just be carefull to put it on the studs straight, It also works best to tighten the 2 more central nuts before the bolts.
01-30-07, 08:29 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Gen1onr
Hmmm. Did you use an O-ring as well as the quarter?
01-30-07, 09:23 PM
#16
Sealing the intake is quite simple. The o-rings go on 1st, which some forget. Use Hylomar, it will hold the o-rings in place better than vasoline. Make sure all of the old gasket material has been removed and both mating surfaces are clean. It's easy to miss little bits of old gasket. Gasket sealer is NOT needed and can squeeze out, into the intake tract, interfering with flow.
Proper torque and tightening sequence is the key. All 6 fasteners need to snugged, then the center nuts torqued, then lower bolts on each side and lastly, the top ones.
Proper torque and tightening sequence is the key. All 6 fasteners need to snugged, then the center nuts torqued, then lower bolts on each side and lastly, the top ones.
01-31-07, 01:01 AM
#20
Ok, thanks guys. Thanks for the info too trochoid. I did put the o rings in first too. I'll restart after I get the freeze plugs if they are really nessecary. Are they? And what torque should the intake manifold nuts and bolts be at? Would autozone or somehting like that have hylomar, or do I need to get it from mazdatrix?
Last edited by twinkletoes; 01-31-07 at 01:06 AM.
01-31-07, 06:28 AM
#21
Freeze plugs can be a lot trickier to instal correctly than the o-rings. Hylomar can be found at most autoparts stores. Torque settings, open up your copy of the FSM and start reading, you will learn more that way than having the question answered for you.
01-31-07, 11:23 AM
#23
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My assistant mechanic claims there's no way to torque the manifold nuts and bolts, but he often claims things like that. Is it true? I can't imagine there is NO way to get a socket on a wobble extension in there. Or does it require removing the carb from the manifold? We left the carb on, and I'm worried that we may have over-stressed something, like a vac hose, or disoriented the floats by flipping the carb.
I'm going to run some more diagnostic tests to day to make sure I've got an oring leak and it's not just some vac leak or other problem.
I'm going to run some more diagnostic tests to day to make sure I've got an oring leak and it's not just some vac leak or other problem.
01-31-07, 11:40 AM
#24
i dont see why not with an apropiate extention u should be fine iv never had trouble with the bolts **** iv never torqued them to no specs just made them tight
flipin the car shouldnt do nothin as u said just check the hose's etc if tis not running or starting hit the bango bolts with a hammer the needles can stick sometimes
flipin the car shouldnt do nothin as u said just check the hose's etc if tis not running or starting hit the bango bolts with a hammer the needles can stick sometimes
01-31-07, 03:55 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by blwfly
i dont see why not with an apropiate extention u should be fine iv never had trouble with the bolts **** iv never torqued them to no specs just made them tight
flipin the car shouldnt do nothin as u said just check the hose's etc if tis not running or starting hit the bango bolts with a hammer the needles can stick sometimes
flipin the car shouldnt do nothin as u said just check the hose's etc if tis not running or starting hit the bango bolts with a hammer the needles can stick sometimes
After you've twisted off enough bolts you kinda figure how to finger-tight and wrench-tight a bolt and then to apply the right wrench and the right force at the right lever length to get the right torque. Mostly, but if you've got room it pays to use a good click preset torque wrench, like this one I bought in 1966 at Sears.