Uneven offset on rear wheels
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Joined: Aug 2018
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From: California
Uneven offset on rear wheels
I recently went to my friends house to have his dad check out my GSL-SE because he used to race them. He noticed something I noticed a bit before: my left rear wheel is poking out a bit more than my right, roughly a few cm. He said the my 4 link bushings are really bad (which they are) and need replacing in order to reset the offset. But my other friend told me that I simply have to move the axle more in in order to fix it.
Should I get the Racing Beat 4 link bushing kit or would moving the axle do the job? Should I do both? I really need an alignment and I don't think I can get it if the wheel is like this.
Thanks in advance.
Appa
Should I get the Racing Beat 4 link bushing kit or would moving the axle do the job? Should I do both? I really need an alignment and I don't think I can get it if the wheel is like this.
Thanks in advance.
Appa
ancient wizard...
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,335
Likes: 262
From: Maryland
What is the ride height of the car at all 4 corners,oe springs?
These are likely sagged from age,ride height can play a factor in rear axle centering.
Furthermore,many 1st gens exhibit this trait to some measurable degree and it is not a problem with alignment,tracking
Person you mention racing 1st gens previously should know this.
4 links are not responsible for centering rear axle and worn bushings in these links will not cause axle being off center condition.
Replacing bushings or 4 links themself will not change axle position-unless the links themselves are damaged/bent.
I have seen this condition from car having been in an accident or simply from someone jacking up rear of car by lower link,they’re not supposed to or designed to support weight of the car.
Begin your diagnosis by measuring ride height and then use a straight edge on all 4 links and both watts link arms.
Look very closely at stud that centers watts link on differential housing.It needs to be exactly 90 degrees from housing-measure it with an angle gauge. Again,have seen these bent from accident damage and more than one broken away from axle housing.
If none of these components are bent,examine the watts link bushings themselves. Rotted/deformed watts link bushings can affect axle centering on these cars,as can link mounts to body being bent.
These cars have a lot of years/miles on them and things wear out.
Regarding poly bushings in 4 links,they tend to pinch axle articulation/movement in hard turns and can contribute to snap oversteer the cars are known for.
I have experimented with my own cars and each one slightly different when poly bushings are replacing oe rubber ones.
I have used poly bushings in all 4 links and found it tightens car up too much.
Replacing upper links with oe Mazda rubber ones alleviates this condition to a point,some cars respond differently with poly lower and rubber upper links.
Wheel width and tire selection can change this condition negatively,stock wheel/tire size are more forgivng as traction is less and tires can slip more before axle binds up.
Poly bushings are an upgrade in both sway bars,strut rods,front inner lower control arm bushings and watts linkage and will make a difference in handling.
If you know you need an alignment,start by checking steering components for wear.
Ball joints,tie rod linkages,pitman and idler arms need to be tight. Miles and years will have worn some of these components and this will affect outcome of an alignment.
Good alignment shop will begin by checking these parts for wear and will recommend replacement before aligning car,other shops may set toe on your car and take your money leaving you dissatisfied.
These are likely sagged from age,ride height can play a factor in rear axle centering.
Furthermore,many 1st gens exhibit this trait to some measurable degree and it is not a problem with alignment,tracking
Person you mention racing 1st gens previously should know this.
4 links are not responsible for centering rear axle and worn bushings in these links will not cause axle being off center condition.
Replacing bushings or 4 links themself will not change axle position-unless the links themselves are damaged/bent.
I have seen this condition from car having been in an accident or simply from someone jacking up rear of car by lower link,they’re not supposed to or designed to support weight of the car.
Begin your diagnosis by measuring ride height and then use a straight edge on all 4 links and both watts link arms.
Look very closely at stud that centers watts link on differential housing.It needs to be exactly 90 degrees from housing-measure it with an angle gauge. Again,have seen these bent from accident damage and more than one broken away from axle housing.
If none of these components are bent,examine the watts link bushings themselves. Rotted/deformed watts link bushings can affect axle centering on these cars,as can link mounts to body being bent.
These cars have a lot of years/miles on them and things wear out.
Regarding poly bushings in 4 links,they tend to pinch axle articulation/movement in hard turns and can contribute to snap oversteer the cars are known for.
I have experimented with my own cars and each one slightly different when poly bushings are replacing oe rubber ones.
I have used poly bushings in all 4 links and found it tightens car up too much.
Replacing upper links with oe Mazda rubber ones alleviates this condition to a point,some cars respond differently with poly lower and rubber upper links.
Wheel width and tire selection can change this condition negatively,stock wheel/tire size are more forgivng as traction is less and tires can slip more before axle binds up.
Poly bushings are an upgrade in both sway bars,strut rods,front inner lower control arm bushings and watts linkage and will make a difference in handling.
If you know you need an alignment,start by checking steering components for wear.
Ball joints,tie rod linkages,pitman and idler arms need to be tight. Miles and years will have worn some of these components and this will affect outcome of an alignment.
Good alignment shop will begin by checking these parts for wear and will recommend replacement before aligning car,other shops may set toe on your car and take your money leaving you dissatisfied.
Hell, mine does this a bit and it has no bent or broken anything and poly swaybar and watts link bushings (makes a huge difference). The upper and lower links are OEM and never been changed (yet). Plus my ride height is a bit higher on the passenger rear side. None of this causes any issues with handling or alignment. Seen several other cars with the same issue. I'm not OCD enough to worry about it but maybe someday I'll fix it but its not broke, so ...
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
+1 to that.
just to add that on mine i made an adjustable watts link, and its basically there to center the axle. mine was maybe 1cm out, a few cm sounds like something is bent. very common on the GSL-SE, even the road test in the magazines they are sliding these things around!
its huge fun, but everyone hit something eventually http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/Ma...r%20GSL-SE.pdf
just to add that on mine i made an adjustable watts link, and its basically there to center the axle. mine was maybe 1cm out, a few cm sounds like something is bent. very common on the GSL-SE, even the road test in the magazines they are sliding these things around!
its huge fun, but everyone hit something eventually http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/Ma...r%20GSL-SE.pdf
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From: California
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