1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I got at the project car this weekend, and tore the rats nest out but having seen some of sterlings beauties, theres still just too much crap on my carb.

I have noticed that in some of the bare bones carbs that the parts Ive circled in red have been removed. Im trying to keep everything in this car as simple as possible, so If anyone could point me in the right direction I would really love to get rid of this junk. Any tips on what has to stay and what has to be blocked off would be amazing.



Also, I think that mechanical secondaries would be in order if I can get rid of the actuator I circled in green. It would be great to have this carb lookin all clean and snazzy, and also a bonus to be able to see the rear float glass. Any help on the tasks would be awesome!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Okay the choke assembly and the Dashpot (circled in Purple) can be removed right away with no ill effects.

The altitude compensator (circled in orange, leftmost) *can* be removed, but it's a bitch to plug those holes properly and so I usually just leave it in place.

The vacuum secondary box can be removed if you convert to mech secs, which includes doing the accel pump mod (longer accel pump arm, more gaskets). Otherwise, leave it in place.

Jon

cjrx7

The thing about the vacuum actuated secondarys that you gotta remember is that if you take it off you will have to make a small block-off plate to cover-up the vac ports that activate it wich will be fine and dany and then just do the ordinary wire wrap mechanical method.The exposed vacuum fittings are simple,I just bought a whole bunch of different vac caps and plugged all of the unused fittings,If you still use your choke you would have to close it on your own if you remove the bi-metal spring deal that heats up and closes the choke but if you do not use a choke at all I would gut the choke plate that covers(chokes) the primary runners and for the openings that are left from removing it just thread a bolt into it,that is what I ended up doing to one of my old ones and it ran great,figuring out how to keep the crankcase filler neck froth-free and the crankcase itself from getting fuel in it from not having that little black check/relief whatever the hell it was hooked up right was another story.

cjrx7

I have to add one more thing though,I personaly did NOT like the mechanical set-up at all,I put mine back on after about a 2 minute drive.

RXJIM

iTrader: (3)

I have read alot about removing the choke during the niki mod, but how do you warm the car up with out it? My 85 would take 15-20 min. at least before it will hold and idle and not sputter when you give any gas.

cjrx7

I re-adjusted my idle mix and speed and timing to a little more friendly of settings (almost a daily thing anyways) and just kept it running with my foot on the gas popping it up to keep it alive, annoying, and the bennitfits are to little to even bother doing that again on my new FB

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

You can leave the fast-idle rod connected, it's just the choke plate and related assembly which gets removed. So you start the car, pull the choke ****, it revs to 2,500 as usual, and works the way you expect it. It's so similar to the way it was before that I don't for the life of me understand why the choke plate is there to begin with. I'm thinking that maybe it takes me another pump or two of the gas to get it to catch, but once it's running, it's the same as it's always been.

Cjrx7, did you do the accelerator pump mod when you did the mechanical secondaries? Because if you didn't, that would explain why you didn't like it and removed it after a few drives. Without the accel pump mod, it would be starving for fuel when you open the secondaries, which would cause a bog. And if you're a lead-footed driver who just smashes the pedal without any regard for the finesse of driving a mech-sec carb, that would also do it. If you drive a car with an actual Sterling modded Nikki, I'm sure that you'll like the mech secs just fine. I can't imagine going back to the old vacuum secondaries, mech secs give you so much more control... IF they're done right.

Jon

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

easey...
what i did was removed them mixxed up jb weld put it in the hole then put maskin tape on for a smoth finish and hold the jb weld in put the carb proped up so the jb will run to the tape and not in to the carb let it dry and repeat i totaly stripped myn and it works mint i got the car to idel at 750 rpm

cjrx7

Vipernicus 42, That makes sense,I never even considered that back when I did it,hmm,good lookin-out.