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Turns out you CAN use a Y iron in a R5 engine

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Old 11-29-08, 08:45 PM
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Turns out you CAN use a Y iron in a R5 engine

As long as its a middle iron

what you CANNOT mix, its front and rear irons

New apex seal vs. used apex seal. The triangular piece is new on both



YES, you can use a middle Y irong in a R5 engine.






Porrrrrrrrrrrting















Old 11-29-08, 09:06 PM
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Why isnt it running yet? Hurry up man lets hear this thing!!!
Old 11-29-08, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by IanS
Why isnt it running yet? Hurry up man lets hear this thing!!!
I need to press out the old rotor and e-gear bearings and install the new ones.

As soon as I do that, I will finish putting the engine together
Old 11-29-08, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by -xlr8planet-
I need to press out the old rotor and e-gear bearings and install the new ones.

As soon as I do that, I will finish putting the engine together
Nice! What template did you use for the streetport?
Old 11-29-08, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by twinkletoes
Nice! What template did you use for the streetport?

Racing Beat

I love the products they have.

I cant afford them now(currency+taxes+shipping), but one day I might
Old 11-30-08, 12:55 AM
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Very cool! These are awesome pics. I've saved them in case I ever need to explain porting to someone, or how the air gets in/out of our engines!

What's happening with your old apex seals?

Jon
Old 11-30-08, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by vipernicus42
Very cool! These are awesome pics. I've saved them in case I ever need to explain porting to someone, or how the air gets in/out of our engines!

What's happening with your old apex seals?

Jon
Nothing is wrong with them.

But Im building 2 engines. The 81 will get the streetported irons and new everything. The 80 will get a few new items, but most of the stuff was in good shape, so no point changing it. The oil control ring springs look NEW with the paint still in them

The 80 engine, should have run another 20 years, cause it was opened and refreshed with new seals and at least one new housing BUT, 2 owners ago, someone was too cheap and used tap water. In no time both rotor housings corroded and water found its way to the combustion chamber. A real shame.

Anyways, it was a sloppy rebuild, cause the dropped the needle bearing when putting it togheter.

Since Im going the nitrous route, I will put 2 side seal springs instead of one. I read its good for FI engines. What do you think?
Old 11-30-08, 09:12 AM
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About using to side seal springs i dont thing that is a good idea,Why?your adding more stress and tension to the seal and the plates will wear faster,BDC tried to do that on his HBP motor and it destroy the side seals in no time.People with new motors(post 85)are using the mazdacomp or third gen side seal springs(stiffer thant stock ones)plus on older motors the side seals springs are already stronger,stiffer and thicker in desing.How much nitrous are you planning to run your setup?
Old 11-30-08, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by joeylyrech
About using to side seal springs i dont thing that is a good idea,Why?your adding more stress and tension to the seal and the plates will wear faster,BDC tried to do that on his HBP motor and it destroy the side seals in no time.People with new motors(post 85)are using the mazdacomp or third gen side seal springs(stiffer thant stock ones)plus on older motors the side seals springs are already stronger,stiffer and thicker in desing.How much nitrous are you planning to run your setup?
If I remember correctly, the recomendation is on the RB manual/catalog.

I plan to run 100 shot of nitrous. The equipment is a 2 nozzle Nitrous Express EFI kit. Shark nozzles, fuel pressure sensor that cuts the nitrous solenoid if fuel pressure goes down, throttle switch to make sure I only shoot when at WOT etc.

I have a megasquirt waiting to be finished, and I will run a CAS and errors board on a MS1 chip. That way I will have the ability to retard timing when the nitrous solenoid is on.
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