KenGVR4

So, I have considered making my GSL-SE into a full on "race car". It's in okay shape, can be made nice with for a few dollars, but I really don't feel like dumping a lot of money into fixing up cosmetics (I already have a Galant VR-4 that I spend too much on). It's the ugly tan color with the nasty cracked poo brown leather interior. So I'm considering either selling it, or building a drag racing monster.

If I go the racecar route, I'll want to put a turbo on it. I want the car to be fast, 10 second ET's would be my goal. I have enough knowledge and skill to pull off either a TII swap, or put a turbo on the stock 13b. However, I don't know what would be the better option.
And yes, I understand that I will have to rebuild the motor in either case.

Also, I have considered the option of throwing a bunch of nitrous at it too (and I mean A LOT), but I haven't heard much about how the 13b likes the spray.

Your expert RX-7 opinions are greatly appreciated.

Ken

wwilliam54

how many miles

rebuild with TII houseings and rotors and port it ?

KenGVR4

Oh, one more thing. The current motor in the car (which runs, and doesn't smoke or anything) has 108k on it.

wwilliam54

hmm thats a tough call
well i say go TII with a large streetport/bridge

fatboy7

I'd go for the 13B-RE cosmo engine, if your looking for 10's. This engine is built stronger than the TII engine, and almost as good as the 13B-REW that 3rd gens came with. At that point, a rebuild with porting (probably Bridgeport, especially if its just a drag car), running a good sized single, aftermarket EFI, slicks, and of course stronger tranny, driveshaft, etc.

With all that 10's shouldn't be too hard, check out www.ajc13B.com.

fatboy7

I know that there are acouple 2nd gens running some serious nitrous (250 shot +) on their turbo engines, but I don't remember who......

Why nitrous though, when turning up the boost is an option?

Maguire

iTrader: (1)

ajc13b makes his peak power at 11k, that mean youre going to need e-shaft strengthining. (reads: "a lot of money). How much are you wanting to spend? 10sec is going to take a lot of work.

kuhlrx7

nitrous has been very bad for a lot of people. the saying used to be its the quick way to blow a rotary. but with that said there has currently been a lot of luck with small shot wet systems with turbos. nitrous can tear up rotary engines beond rebuildable condition. go to some of the racers sites that use nitrous in their engines and ask them. a turbo should be anuff to get you in to the 10s

fatboy7

You can see 400+RWHP with a streetport and a GT35/40 at much lower than 11k rpm. Something tells me that they didn't have the rpm scale correct on those dyno pulls.

If you have a turbo, you don't need to rev the pee out of the engine, cause you have torque.

fatboy7

AJC's car is a street car BTW, full interior w/stereo, the works. You can get into the 10's with less power, if you lighten the car to race only.

KenGVR4

It would be a race car, I'd lighten it as much as possible, I think I would like to keep it street legal though.

Is there a website that details the specific differences between motors? All I have ever found was stuff on US spec motors, but no talk about what makes any motor better than another. I guess I would really like to keep the 13b that I have now, and build that, instead of having to source another motor to try and keep costs down.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Where are you getting this FALSE information from?

Keaponlaffen

if you're going by his videos, he already clarifyed that the dyno wasn't set up right, and that's why it was reading 13k+ rpms....

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I got about 13k in mine so far, and im not in the 10's. So you see this can get pretty expensive pretty fast.

Rex4Life

Yea but Mike-P-28, you got a totally awesome setup there.

Didn't really pay much attention to the signature till I saw the $10k figure--yea that's about right.

Scott

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

www.rotorworx.co.au, for about $5 grand will get you into the 10's, the can sell you a complete bolt in, turn-key DIY package. This was reccomended by AJC13b, he says this guy (Vlad), really knows his ****.

680RWHP12A

if i were you i would add a stock turbo 2 rurbo to your current motor with a weber 48 blowthrough carburator. its inexpensive and easy to tune , while not needing alot of parts to swap to turbo! when you get bored you can upgrade as needed, trust me a small turbo is way more fun than no turbo! and as for the poo brown interior, tint your windows real dark so people cant see in!

snake eyes<l><l>

link no worky

Snake Eyes<l><l>

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

I've got the same color tan on crap GSL-SE that you do. Except mine was garage kept all its life, had 101,000 miles on it, and I only paid $300 for it!

The car is so light that it doesn't take tons of power to get to the 10's if you can get everything hooked up right. The key is getting your drivetrain to last and getting a big enough tire under it. 400 rwhp in a 1st gen can get you around the high 10's. That hp level isn't hard to get from a rotary. I probably wouldn't add a turbo to your engine just solely based on the high mileage it has and how much power you would want from it. You can get a complete 'long block' J-Spec T-II engine complete with turbo, intake manifold, injectors, intercooler for about $850. Maybe even cheaper if you know where to look. Thats the price I can get them for here in Houston. I found a good T-II tranny in a junkyard for $200. Pick up a Microtech computer on a group buy for cheap control. You get the idea. So many ways to do what you want. Just research it out a little and go for it.