If you are the type of guy that likes highly strung, well a big port 12A with 9.4:1 rotors goes much better than a 8.5:1 12AT with wussy ports.

I'm using a 1982 12A rear plate, and I make 330rwhp on a jewish dyno, and this setup will run a 11.0 @126-128mph down the 1320ft once I get my TII gearbox installed and a bigger diff. To give you an idea of the performance, think partial traction @ 110mph using circuit racing tyres in a straight line.

The ideal boost for a stock FC turbo is 15psi. If you highflow (bnr stage 2) it ~18psi. In both cases its back pressure killing you not compressor inefficiency.

All the setup needs to be is

3" turbo back exhaust with single high flow muffler (I use 10"x8"x22" truck mufflers)
$100 500mm x 300mm x 76mm intercooler with 2.5" pipes.

$100 K&N air filter mounted in the front air dam. E85 if available else use best octane petrol you can get (with $15 550cc primaries and $85 bosch 1600cc secondaries (1000cc secondaries if petrol instead of E85))

The thing that saves me is the quality of tune (logic) and how good megasquirt is as well as the $4000 engine build (read flat plates, new rotor housings, new seals)

I'm using factory 12A turbo apex seals (none of this RA/goopy/scr/ whatever bs), no doweling, no studding.

 

jewish dyno..???what da hell......new rotor housings??? 12a turbo apex seal????where are you from buddy.....back pressure is the killer 3 inch exhaust is a must...i stick with 12psi because i am running stock transmission and rear....330rwhp must feel nice...