I am trying to get the most power out of my gsl-se. I am going to rebuild my engine pretty soon with some kind of port. I was wondering what kinda port i should go with. I heard that people are driving bridgeported motors on the street with no problem. Also, I have the street headers from racing beat and a super afc. I am going to complete my exhaust, but was wondering what else I might need to get the most i can N/a with out NOS. I am not going to run a stand alone, but probably the emanage and ITB.

 

If you want the most power you would go with a PP. Thats fro race cars though. I would go with a bridgeport if I were you. Do you have a smog check every year? If so, then you won't pass. Search around and you will find out a lot. Rmember a bridgeport won't last as long as a streetport or stock port. If you don't care how long it will lst then go with the bridge.

 

Bp's don't make good DDs, unless you port the aux ports only and have them working. If you are going with itbs, then I would toss the front and rear irons, go with 12A irons instead along a large streetport and MegaSquirt. I you're more interested in power than lowend and street manners, go with a 1/2 bridge 4-port, full bridge if you don't care at all.

While it may not make sense or simply sound just wrong, you can pull more overall power out of a ported 13B 4-port, than you can a 6-port. The 6-port will offer more lowend, but you gain more mid-topend with a 4-port.

 

what exactly are the irons? pics if possible.

 

Front and rear irons are the plate that closes the engine off on the front and rear.

 

As my fellow Colleague would state. "Don't mean to be a butthead", but if you just had to ask that question. I recommend before you start buying kits or parts to rebuild that you buy Atkins rebuild video and also crack open a rotary manual.

 

WHat he said ^


Also don't worry about the motor you currently have in the car for right now.
I would find you a 86-88 motor and build that one. Local junk yards sell those motor for 60-100 dollars and drop in your car buy using your oild pan and font cover. SE parts are getting hard to find and people want to buy them so sell those to off set you engine build.
You can port the hell out of the 2nd gen motor and when you break something on the motor, parts are easier to find. Also that motor had a bit more hp stock.
Now sure how in depth you want to go but the easy and cheap route would be to run the following parts from the 86-88 rx7;
motor
uim
lim
TB
ecu
passengerside wiring harness
AFM.

This motor posted to a BP or a serious SP running stock fuel should be a 200 hp motor. My setup is close to this and I have been told I am around the 200 hp mark although I have never dyno'ed it as I am not done.
Good luck

 

if ur like me, more power over stock and need it to last as long as possible cause it will be driven every single day of the year, then a streetport would be the best choice. what i would do in ur position is, like already mentioned, go 4 port. either by using the irons from a 12a or T2, and the internals of the SE engine. not sure what the stock ecu is capable of but for induction, i'd use the weber style TB, retaining the stock wiring. it just all depends on how much $$$ u got to spend on it.

 

i agree with that whole use an s4 motor statement. MUCH easier to find parts. Im planning on getting a 12a core, an S4 na core and making a 4port 13b from this and using my GSLSE front cover and oil pan. From here i have enough stock parts and other stuff to turbo the hell out it.

I have an entire TII wiring harness, and sensor thing, plus intake manifolds, and TB, and so on and so forth to make this work.


which leads me to my next point:

the GSLSE EFI is based on a 12v maf sensor instead of the usual 5v. So, you can not use a SAFC, or any other piggy back on it. (hense me using my old TII harness)

 

Which is even a better idea to swap in a 2nd gen ECU on the gsl-se!
Your setup sounds like it will be nice. Pics when your done as I am planning to use the complete S5 TII motor, ecu, harness, and all the other bs in either my 79SA or my 85 GSL-SE. This way I will have a Turbo rx7 and can sell my 91TII to save for a 3rd gen.

 

i actually never thought of just replacing the ECU and MAF....

but i have the TII wiring harness thinned out so it not really a big mess. Im sure i can think of some other reason to use it.

 

Let's clear up a few things before everyone starts building engines they can't finish, or won't live up to thier expectation. S3 and earlier engines are not max and match with S4 and S5 engines. Coolant o-ring groves were moved between the 2 series.

200 hp to the wheels is near impossible with a 6-port, ask the 2nd gen guys who have tried, many times. It is quite doable with a 4-port. Only the 2nd gen TII and vert ecus are capable of hadling boost, the NAs are not. They still limit the amount of hp one can attain. After about 250, it's time to go stand alone, which is near what one can get with a 4-port carb setup.

 

as you can can see, your main question (making the most power) can be answered many different ways. there have been a few great ideas tossed out to you so far. what you need to do right now, before you even think of touching that car, is research. i agree with what rx7doctor said. it's hard to imagine that you're at a level where you're going to port and rebuild a motor correctly, much less reliably, if you're asking such an elementary question. that's not to call you dumb or put you down - it's just an assessment based on what you've posted so far. i'll speak for myself, but i'm sure i'm not alone on this, but i'm more than willing to help you with planning or didactic issues for your build, but you need to bring some prior knowledge to the table because after all, it's your car - not mine, not Trochoid's, not Fire's or anyone else's. it's yours!

obviously you're building a car for the street. however, you need to forget what you "hear" about bridges on the street and "listen" to a bridge on the street, then decide if you can live with that everyday, everywhere you go.

as for the ITB idea, it can be good, or it can be a waste of time and money. if you do it, you have to do it right. now, i'm not going to impose my own thoughts on you, but if you're going to spring for the hardware, then it would make sense to me that you should also spring for the software. my 2 cents ....

good luck and happy studying.

 

those housings don't go together - just want to save you some anguish now rather than later. in all honesty, hardcore racers can make them work, but i'm not sure if you're going to be taking that route. you really should probably keep keep pre-'86 with pre-'86 and post-'86 (except Renesis) with the like.

EDIT:
Okay, Trochoid has started to address this, too, so i'll let him have at it.

 

where would my GSLSE 13b motor fall into? s3? because that is what im thinking about using for the housings if i cant use S4/S5.

 

The change occured in 86, 85 and earlier parts, 13B housings with 12A irons, work.

 

trochoid, I did state a 200hp motor, so 180 at the rear?
But anyhow what do you think this setup would be at the wheels?

S4 Streetported motor
S4 uim
S4 lim
S4 TB with TB mod done
Stock Injectors in primary
710cc's in Secondary
S4 AFM
S4 ECU
S4 harness
RB lightweight flywheel


No emissions
Full RB streetport exhaust

Thanks

 

Correct like stated before this setup will not work.


I was trying to say that buy using the s4 parts you could get them easier down the road. Also you would be able to get a good price for your SE motor as those parts like the 12a parts are getting harder and harder to find in rebuildable condition.

It all really comes don't to what you think you can do yourself, how much money you have, and how much your willing to invest.

 

probably 170+

 

4-port or 6-port? With a 4-port, 1/2 sp, 1/2bp, you might get close to 200 fwhp. To get the most out of it, find a set of Judge Ito's porting templates and go with a MegaSquirt ecu. Find a set of TII end irons and exhaust sleeves. If you can afford the SDJ header, that will give you a few more hp, but it's quite pricey. Not sure if they make one for the 13B or not.

A little porting on the exhaust ports will probably help, but if ported wrong, it can also reduce power output. The 1/2 bp is up to you, it all depends on what kind on street manners you want. I would keep the stock flywheel, maybe even upgrade to the TII flywheel, clutch and tranny, if you go with the 1/2 bp. A lightweight flywheel and a bp are friendly for starts and stop and go city traffic.

Building an SE engine with 12A end irons and a 48/51 mm IDA Weber will be cheaper and yield as much, probably more hp, than going with the S4. If you do go with the 1/2 bp, be sure to do all of the 8k+ rpm mods as the useable power band will be moved up. Your low end will suck, but once you hit 4-5 k rpm, hang on. Built/ported right, you could be making power to 9k. If you have no plans for boost, go with the carbon apex seals.

 

so much to thing about...

i MIGHT stay n/a but the question is then 48/51 IDA or keep the EFI and go megasquirt. htoughts on overall potential. would end up costing the same.

 

That will come down to what you feel comfortable with tuning and what tuning resources are availible in your area. If you plan on winter driving, the efi will perform better, the ida has no choke.