Casey Gibson

So is there any way to trick the maf sensor, because with the swap the maf doesn't kick the fuel pump on and off and only sends power while cranking. Plan on upgrading to a fitech efi system after rebuild. Any thoughts/advice?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Won't the stock SE EFI pump be too much for the Holley? Are you running a regulator and a return line?
How does a maf even hook up to the holley?

Not an SE expert, but from what I understand the fuel pump is controlled by the key on and the ECU.

GSLSEforme

OK... First thing. Se does not have a MAF as original equipment,it has an Air flow Meter. All air pulled thru it and into the engine causes a flap/door to move/open that has a resistance unit attached to it. The ecu uses this and several other sensors to calculate the proper amount of fuel to inject into the engine. There are also a set of contacts in the air flow meter that close when engine is cranked(flap door opens slightly from air being pulled thru it) to start that turns on fuel pump to supply fuel. There is a green "test plug" near right side strut tower that can be jumped to turn on fuel pump,this is there for diagnostics and car shouldn't be operated with system jumpered in this way. The way the system is designed,it shuts off flow of fuel if it doesn't see a signal from trailing ignition coil. In the event of a crash and a ruptured fuel line this system won;t be spraying pressurized fuel to make things worse... the jumpered car will pump fuel no matter what til key is turned off or battery dies. Download the wiring diagrams from this site to familiarize yourself with how it all is put together. Having said all that, are you trying to hook up air flow meter to carb somehow? The oe fuel pump technically can be used-it's a high pressure/volume pump but will have to be regulated down to 5-6 psi for Holley carb. Also need to run at least 3/8" fuel return line back to tank, 8mm oe lines aren't large enough and will cause fuel to overrun the carb on decel(flood). Lastly there is a recent thread here about somene doing what you propose AND another thread(80' with six port) where a knowledgeable member has gone from a Holley carb to a Fitech unit. Suggest you look thru that thread as he's having some problems that are not yet resolved,before you entertain putting a FiTech system on your car. It is possible that system and A Rotary engine is not a happy marriage.

wankel=awesome

wanna know why? They never sent me one to help them develop it, lmao

Casey Gibson

Ok sorry I haven't kept up on this, Iv been out dickin with it trying to work out bugs, ok it has an inline 6-12 psi fuel pump on an acc harness with a fuse and relay, so it has power with key. Iv deleted all unneeded sensors, and have resolved all this. Right now I'm having trouble to get it to idle, I have the idle cranked up to 1500 rpm and will not idle lower than that. I have a 3 core aluminum rad and a gsl oil cooler with the shorter hoses. It won't warm up past 165-170 and I'm thinking that's why it won't idle lower than 1500 rpm. Checked for vacuum leaks and all that jaz.

Casey Gibson

i read the thread on the fitech and am planning on going that rout some time in the near future.

wankel=awesome

Lol

you must not want a running car someday

First, despite the absolute library of information here on the forums that tells you to avoid the RB holley, or any holley. Ignored. It's your car, whatever.

Second, the Fitech had potential. But that's it. It needs a totally different brain than what it had to run properly on the rotary, or a custom fed map. The self tuning ability is out the window. Even it's sensor array isn't ideal to start with. It has had ZERO development for the rotary, despite some of our best efforts to do it FOR them.

I guess you'll figure it out. This is an expensive game to play even without wasting money on junk.
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wankel=awesome

I'd also be willing to bet that this isn't an RB holley, and in fact a 200$ holley 600 from ebay, right? Vac secondary?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Temperature has little to do with idle stability and once it gets above 159F the tstat opens anyway.

Your idle issues are either a holley tuning issue or vacuum leaks. Is this a RB holley or just one you
picked up somewhere? Have you read all the threads on the holley posted here?

GSLSEforme

Would suppose op is a younger person from language used to inability to absorb good intel from the site.

Casey Gibson

Ok no it was not a true rb Holley, yes it had vac secondaries. I have read every thread I can find that had any relevance to my situation. Long story short, I have already done away with the vac secondary re jetted the car 62s on primary 64s on secondary. I have not yet got to drive it enough to know if I need to adjust. Deleted the electric choke, and changed out the accelerator cam. I am still running the 30cc accelerator pump but plan on swapping it out due to a thread iv run on to on here that the 55cc works better. Yes the Holley set up is less than perfect but I know there are people on here that have had luck spending enough time not money on this set up to make them very drivable without harming the motor. I am no rotary expert and have little experience but I have owned one sense i was 15 I am 29 now, am here to learn and appreciate all your advice already and advice in the future.

Casey Gibson

Oh and plugged the power valve* there is a long story behind this build and kind of had to go this rout on the build due to circumstances.

wankel=awesome

You read the wrong threads and you're listening to the wrong people.


that 600 will *never* be right. I could take my time here and type you a book explaining why, but I'm not. I've done it so many times already for new members who ignored my advice anyways.

Everybody thinks they will be the one to prove me wrong and listen to some other hack about their "fixes" and "mods".

Still hasn't happened. Still never seen an example with as much time and resources invested in it as my own, and I have a background in fuel systems to start with. It won't work. Do not waste your time. Even mine (heavily reworked RB465, total of 2k $ invested) sits on a shelf now doing nothing. It's an awful carb.

get a real carb (IDA or Nikki, that's all that truly belongs on it), and be done with it.

If you want injection, contact megasquirt and build your own system. It's even possible to use your junk holley as an EFI throttle body, which I've also covered here on the forums. I believe forum member peejay is still running an example of such.
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have fun, and for the love of all things rotating, take our advice.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I've stayed out of this thread for reasons wankel=awesome covered. I've also stayed out of "thething"s thread about his fitech stuff too. Good luck, and please do take our advice. It's virtually the only way you will have any luck.