I have one that will work on rotaries but will need a second hand to operate since it's not running yet... can in the future but haven't been able to yet. But it's on the list! 👍

 

One thing I thought of but really don't think it should matter is that it's just a header on right now.... it shouldn't keep it from starting with little to no back pressure right? I know from experience they need the pressure but it should still start.

 

It should be fine, I wouldn't worry about the exhaust. Heck, they happily start without a header .


It does make it tougher since you can't time it and crank with one person, but I would really suggest prioritizing it. That would be my first step before anything else personally, and it would help us confirm spark so that we can move on to other potential issues. Worst case and you can't rope anyone into cranking, it's not terribly difficult to rig up a remote starter "switch". Just have to power the solenoid.

 

very true! I've been thinking of that as well.... I'm just a bit nervous doing that considering all the crazy things that have happened so far! With it turning over on its own and then a fire that got put out quick I'm a bit shy with rigging things at the moment. Lol

 

I've verified spark by myself. You don't need to be seated in the car to turn the ignition key. Just rest spark plugs on the shock strut's bare threads. Or use the t-light, its leads should be plenty long to crank and hold the t-light trigger down.

Good thing to pull the FUEL PUMP's fuse ! !

"......getting more and more less positive...." >>>--->that's part of doing an engine swap, and Only if you have been in the deepest valley, can you ever know how magnificent it is to be on the highest mountain.

"going 90 degrees trial and error on stabbing the dizzy......" >>>---> ha ha, I've had to do that.

 

thanks man.... the problem from what I'm seeing with this 80 and pulling the fuel pump fuse is that it looks like the ignition is hooked to the same fuse? And thanks for the words of encouragement!

 

Before I go taking the front cover off and checking the front stack and the dizzy drive gear to make sure it's on correctly would I even be able to line up the timing marks as well as they are if it were on backwards? The arrow points in the right direction along with the timing marks on pulley.... if it was backwards would it be able to line up that well?

 

So for anyone still reading up on this thread.... I've got a good promise on starting. But after test lighting it turns out the trailing isn't getting juice. Negative side of the coil to ignitor has connection but in the back of my mind I remember something about the trailing being turned off during start up. I've deleted the rat nest and is there something I'm ignoring to allow the trailing to kick in before full start up? Or something else? Thanks again members for all the help.

 

Better update! After being nearly ready to pop off I put a bit of seafoam into each chamber via the side draft intake vac ports and turned the key. And all of a sudden it went vroom! To the point I had to turn the key off cause I had the idle set way too high and it went to town in about a second. But in that second it was even, consistent in igniting and sounded strong! So when it's not nearly midnight I'm gonna do the same with the seafoam and with lower curb idle speed to try and get the seals all set in and warmed up. Fingers crossed and prayers said to get it running under normal operations.

 

that's good stuff! glad you got it fired. i'm happy for you.

Seafoam is awesome!

 

thanks man! And I never thought of using it for that before but it works for yet another application. Still have the troubling starting up but it seems easier each time. And the temp Guage isn't working so I don't like to run it too long till I get that figured out. Lol