Timing and Plug gap specs?!
05-04-04, 09:36 PM
#2
Gap is whatever BR8EQ-14 or BUR7EQ come with out of the box. As they wear, the gap gets bigger; not a problem for direct fire ignition systems. Just buy new BR8EQ-14 plugs if yours are old.
As for timing, there are many opinions out there. A 12A should make more power with a leading/trailing split of 8º. As for total advance, that can work alreight anywhere from 20-25º when reved up to and past 4k RPM. It should be at or near 0º at idle.
Others will know the specifics for a stock 12A, such as yours.
As for timing, there are many opinions out there. A 12A should make more power with a leading/trailing split of 8º. As for total advance, that can work alreight anywhere from 20-25º when reved up to and past 4k RPM. It should be at or near 0º at idle.
Others will know the specifics for a stock 12A, such as yours.
Last edited by Jeff20B; 05-04-04 at 09:39 PM.
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05-05-04, 12:24 PM
#8
Somebody should repost the autolite thing in the Canadian forum. There are a few guys there that recommended them in a recent spark plug thread.
In answer to the initial post - you CAN'T re-gap the 4-prong side-fire NGKs that our cars use. So they're either properly gapped (new) or needing to be replaced (old). Use NGK BR8EQ-14s or BR9EQ-14s. The BR9s are better on the highway, the BR8s better in the city IIRC.
Jon
In answer to the initial post - you CAN'T re-gap the 4-prong side-fire NGKs that our cars use. So they're either properly gapped (new) or needing to be replaced (old). Use NGK BR8EQ-14s or BR9EQ-14s. The BR9s are better on the highway, the BR8s better in the city IIRC.
Jon
05-05-04, 01:14 PM
#9
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Yeah.It's been a long time since I've been around rotaries...at least to me. I opened the box and saw their 4 prong before I looked at the forum but thanks for all the responses guys!!! By the way.There NGK.hehe
But I did just buy autolite spark plug wires because I broke a spark plug wire and just needed something quick while I wait to get better wires.
But I did just buy autolite spark plug wires because I broke a spark plug wire and just needed something quick while I wait to get better wires.
05-05-04, 01:16 PM
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I'll have to say that after switching from autolite wires to NGK, I notice a good difference in the way my car idles, accells and gas mileage has gone up as well.
05-05-04, 01:18 PM
#11
As for me, I'd only ever use the BR8 or 9EQ-14 or BUR7 or 9EQ plugs. I don't see a point to using autolites, whether side-fire or not, when the ignition system is in good shape. In other words, direct fire = win.
Autolites are akin to B8EV plugs. Jim Meaderer, or some other knowledgeble person at Racing beat, recommended B8EV in a through-the-cap (stock FB style) system for a streetported four port 13B when I asked if they still recommend the same plugs they did back in the '80s (as mentioned in my old RB catalogue). He said the BUR7EQs were a surface-discharge type of plug, and require a hotter ignition system than what the FB came stock with, and may not fire reliably if used in a high HP engine. Then I told him I was going direct fire and already had the plugs to try it with. He said "try it" or "go for it" or something. It worked perfectly.
Heh, I love the BUR7/9EQ series plugs because they work quite well with a direct fire ignition system. It's sorta what they were manufactured for. 
So in other words, the way I understand it is those autolites are a less expensive alternative to the B8EV plugs, and are ok (I guess) for a through-the-cap ignition system. I'd still use BR8EQ-14 in all four holes if I had a choice though (or just trailing if I had the BUR7EQ in leading). I don't have to go to a motorcycle shop to get them, and they're not as ugly as an autolite (if you can rate such a thing as looks when it comes to spark plugs). No side fire mods required either, although I suppose some of the ground 'prongs' could be cut off, but they're only used in the trailing holes (with a direct fire system on leading), so who cares?
Has anyone ever removed some of the prongs on BR8(9)EQ-14 plugs before?
Autolites are akin to B8EV plugs. Jim Meaderer, or some other knowledgeble person at Racing beat, recommended B8EV in a through-the-cap (stock FB style) system for a streetported four port 13B when I asked if they still recommend the same plugs they did back in the '80s (as mentioned in my old RB catalogue). He said the BUR7EQs were a surface-discharge type of plug, and require a hotter ignition system than what the FB came stock with, and may not fire reliably if used in a high HP engine. Then I told him I was going direct fire and already had the plugs to try it with. He said "try it" or "go for it" or something. It worked perfectly.
Heh, I love the BUR7/9EQ series plugs because they work quite well with a direct fire ignition system. It's sorta what they were manufactured for. So in other words, the way I understand it is those autolites are a less expensive alternative to the B8EV plugs, and are ok (I guess) for a through-the-cap ignition system. I'd still use BR8EQ-14 in all four holes if I had a choice though (or just trailing if I had the BUR7EQ in leading). I don't have to go to a motorcycle shop to get them, and they're not as ugly as an autolite (if you can rate such a thing as looks when it comes to spark plugs). No side fire mods required either, although I suppose some of the ground 'prongs' could be cut off, but they're only used in the trailing holes (with a direct fire system on leading), so who cares?
Has anyone ever removed some of the prongs on BR8(9)EQ-14 plugs before?
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