I was wondering what everyone was running for their timing and also there gap for the spark plugs.This is for 12A motor

 

Gap is whatever BR8EQ-14 or BUR7EQ come with out of the box. As they wear, the gap gets bigger; not a problem for direct fire ignition systems. Just buy new BR8EQ-14 plugs if yours are old.

As for timing, there are many opinions out there. A 12A should make more power with a leading/trailing split of 8º. As for total advance, that can work alreight anywhere from 20-25º when reved up to and past 4k RPM. It should be at or near 0º at idle.

Others will know the specifics for a stock 12A, such as yours.

 

spark plugs are pregapped for our cars,take them out of the box and install them like jeff20b said.

 

THe poor guy is probably buying Autolites or someting to that sort and NOT NGKs.

He's probably wondering how you gap them if you've got autolits.

 

Oh man that's discouraging to think about. Another set of apex seals bites the dust, or rather autolites.

 

what autolites??? im using autolites 2594 (i think thats the number) with no problem.

 

wackyracer, do you have a direct fire ignition system hooked to the autolites?

 

Somebody should repost the autolite thing in the Canadian forum. There are a few guys there that recommended them in a recent spark plug thread.

In answer to the initial post - you CAN'T re-gap the 4-prong side-fire NGKs that our cars use. So they're either properly gapped (new) or needing to be replaced (old). Use NGK BR8EQ-14s or BR9EQ-14s. The BR9s are better on the highway, the BR8s better in the city IIRC.

Jon

 

Yeah.It's been a long time since I've been around rotaries...at least to me. I opened the box and saw their 4 prong before I looked at the forum but thanks for all the responses guys!!! By the way.There NGK.hehe
But I did just buy autolite spark plug wires because I broke a spark plug wire and just needed something quick while I wait to get better wires.

 

I'll have to say that after switching from autolite wires to NGK, I notice a good difference in the way my car idles, accells and gas mileage has gone up as well.

 

As for me, I'd only ever use the BR8 or 9EQ-14 or BUR7 or 9EQ plugs. I don't see a point to using autolites, whether side-fire or not, when the ignition system is in good shape. In other words, direct fire = win.

Autolites are akin to B8EV plugs. Jim Meaderer, or some other knowledgeble person at Racing beat, recommended B8EV in a through-the-cap (stock FB style) system for a streetported four port 13B when I asked if they still recommend the same plugs they did back in the '80s (as mentioned in my old RB catalogue). He said the BUR7EQs were a surface-discharge type of plug, and require a hotter ignition system than what the FB came stock with, and may not fire reliably if used in a high HP engine. Then I told him I was going direct fire and already had the plugs to try it with. He said "try it" or "go for it" or something. It worked perfectly. Heh, I love the BUR7/9EQ series plugs because they work quite well with a direct fire ignition system. It's sorta what they were manufactured for.

So in other words, the way I understand it is those autolites are a less expensive alternative to the B8EV plugs, and are ok (I guess) for a through-the-cap ignition system. I'd still use BR8EQ-14 in all four holes if I had a choice though (or just trailing if I had the BUR7EQ in leading). I don't have to go to a motorcycle shop to get them, and they're not as ugly as an autolite (if you can rate such a thing as looks when it comes to spark plugs). No side fire mods required either, although I suppose some of the ground 'prongs' could be cut off, but they're only used in the trailing holes (with a direct fire system on leading), so who cares?

Has anyone ever removed some of the prongs on BR8(9)EQ-14 plugs before?

 

Yup. Direct fire on both RX-3 and FB. the autolites works as good as the b10ev. No mod other than the usual gapping at .020.

 

Is it the same heat range as the B10EV? Them's cold!