gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Cool. Thanks for the report. I haven't played with the fixed PW much. The low end was so much worse, I didn't even bother. It is nice to see the high end is improved. TurboSE noted the same thing. If the high end it that much more improved, maybe I could modify the circuit to switch modes when the variable PW falls below 2ms. That way we would have the good low end and good high end. I will see if I can figure out an easy way to make it work.

Check out the timing with the fixed PW too. See if there is a difference (at least down low/idle). Maybe the timing does chage, I am not sure. What the fixed pulse width does is forces the pulse to the 2nd gen ignitor to be constant. This means that up high, where maybe the J-109 maybe only putting out a narrow PW, the fixed PW mode effectively widens the pulse in this situation (longer, hotter spark).

The electrical drain issue is intesting. The variable will cause a larger drain as the charge time is longer than the fixed PW mode. Doesn't seem like it should cause that much drain, but we will have to check that out. After all, this is what the testing is for.

Thanks again for the feedback. All this helps to make improvements to the design.

Kent

Kentetsu

I think that the reason that I am having success with the fixed pw is the fact that I moved my timing to maybe 6 or 8 degrees more advance than stock while in variable pw mode. Like I said earlier, I think that when you switch from variable to fixed, the timing might be getting a little more retarded. So, if you are at stock settings and switch to fixed, your timing might be so far retarded that you can't idle for ****.

When I get home in the morning I will check my timing in both modes and see what the difference is. But if you have time to play around with it, you might try advancing your timing a bit for the fixed pw and try it again... I'll keep you "posted"...

Kentetsu

Okay, I've been driving the same route to/from work for 13 years now. I know the turns, acceleration/braking points etc like the back of my hand. I always drive my car to the max when traffic is absent, and I know how my car performs.

Running on the fixed pulse rate while coming home this morning was by far the best before/after test that I could perform short of a dyno. Now I find that in areas where I would nearly top out in 3rd gear before I had to brake for a turn I am suddenly having to shift to 4th well before the braking point. The rpm needle literally shoots to the redline! HOLY ****!!! That's about all I can say.

If I had access to a dyno I would test this in a heartbeat. I still have all of my previous wiring intact, so switching from the transistor mod back to the standard 2nd gen mod would only involve unplugging one connector and plugging in another. Someone needs to get some numbers on this, because like I said, "HOLY ****"! This is by far the best thing that I have done for my car.

It's still too dark out for me to break out the timing light, but I will check it when I get up this afternoon just to see exactly what's happening. This has turned my car into a whole new monster! Stop by anytime Kent, and I'll take you for a ride....

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I think I have a way figured out to run both of the modes. The circuit would be the same as it is now, but I would need to add an additional component and remove the switch. The way that I am thinking should output the longer pulse of the two modes. This way the variable PW would be used at the low end of things and the fixed PW mode would kick in once the variable PW mode fell below 2ms. This way we get the benefits of both. I will try to do some bench testing next week sometime. I will then throw it in the car and see how it works.

I well let you know. For the guys testing the current design, maybe we can figure out a way to upgrade yours if this works out.

Kent

BlastinSideways12A

My car is running like poo right now and getting 11MPG, I'll test the setup for ya.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Send me a pm if you would like to buy one of the next batch of circuits. This way is easier for me to keep track of how many I need to build and for who. It may be a couple weeks before I'll have a chance to build more. If you need something before then, I'll see of I will have the chance to do a write-up of the building basic circuit. That way you can put together your own.

lovintha7

I think I may be having timing troubles. I've got a timing light at work, but it won't pick up the signal from the leading. Trailing is splotchy and stops working after 3k rpm. What timing light are you using? I'd prefer to have one that has the **** for advance, plus a possbily a retarded one for the trailing. I think this may have something to do with the problems I'm having with the new carb.

Bryan

Kentetsu

Have you verified that your leading ignition is actually working? Or is it just a matter of a bad timing light?

lovintha7

The timing light works. And I know i've got leading ignition. I've tried it with stock dizzy setup and the 2GCDFIS w/ BB. That's the new acronymn. (BB=black box) It works up to a certain point on the trailing, but never leading. I think it's the wasted spark thing that's screwing it up. If I hit up Sears, which one should I buy?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Get the cheapest light. Whether it has a fast charging/flashing circuit or not, it should be able to show the timing marks. I've got a really slow one that flashes only every other time and shows the wrong side of the pulley about half the time. It works for me. My old one flashed so fast that it could keep up with so called wasted spark ignition systems on rotaries. Too bad it died. It was a very cheap one and lasted a good ten years.

I don't think calling this circuit a BB/black box is a good idea. It's too misleading and reminds me of airplanes and modern cars which actually contain a "black box" that can tattle on you if you get in a wreck or drive your car hard enough to void the warranty, etc. I came up with "tranistor trick" because I knew it would be easy to remember like "ATF trick" from a few years ago (I always tried to push MMO as the better alternative). Their is only one transistor trick.

The ATF trick may be a bunch of BS, but gsl-se addict and others are proving that the transistor trick is quite an excellent mod, and very worthwhile to try on your own car. Black box is what some people call their J-109 ignitors lol. Brain box is even worse. Ever hear people call them that? *shudders* Let's not call the transitor trick a black box or brain box or anything else the less car knowledgeable types out there would call it because it implies ignorance on the person that refers to it as such. No offense.

lovintha7

LOL, can we call it the 2GCDFIS w/ TT? It's hard enough trying to remember the acronym. I still haven't figured out what HTH is....

OH yea, how do you count degrees when all you have is a pin to measure against?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the input, Jeff. I need to pick up a timing light, but I have been unsure which one to get. I guess I'll try to get a cheapie. Any particular brands that you have had good luck with?

As Bryan said, I think A lot of people have a hard time saying/remembering 2CGDFIS w/ TT. I call just call it the transistor trick. Bryan: HTH means Hope This Helps. It took me awhile to figure that one out. For awhile, I thought it was LongDuck's initials , since he usually uses it at the end of his posts.

This really is a nice and simple mod. I will try to mod the circuit this week to use both modes (fixed PW at the high end, variable down low). Should work pretty well based on what people have found testing.

Kent

lovintha7

I bought the $50 light at Sears. It's chrome....OoOoOoOo. No ***** or dials or anything. Works fantastic. 8 degrees leading, and it still runs like ****. I don't know what the hell else to try. I may end up dropping another Sterling on it. Oh well, the joys of custom ****. I wonder if I put a stocker intake on, if it'll change anything. I ported mine.

teejs

Kent, I have been researching the posts on the 2GCDFIS. You all have done some incredible work on this. I wanted to ask if you are still making up these kits? If it is a matter of finding the parts I would be more that willing to try to get them...I also do not have a clear idea of the cost.
Appreciably,
Tom

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, Tom. I will probably build another run of these kits. I will have to do it soon, as I will be leaving the country for 1 or 2 years to do a post-doctorate position in France. I will be leaving about the end of September. The worse part is going to be going that long without my RX-7 . I do plan a full restoration when I get back, though.

As far as price, I asked for $20 shipped on the past set (initial design). The next batch will probably be the same if I build the variable PW only type. If I make it to where it will do both modes (switch automatically between them instead of the manual switching that the initial circuits have), it may be a bit more (maybe $25 or $30). It is not that it adds much as far as cost of components (they are cheap), but it does add a lot more soldering connections and time to build the circuit with the dual modes. Maybe I'll build some of each and let people decide which one they want.

The hold up right now is the connectors (that plug into the 1st gen ignitor). I haven't had much time to look for one because I am busy trying to finish my PhD. My offer still stands. If someone can track down somewhere I can get these connectors alone and cheap, I will build you a circuit free of charge.

I also plan on putting together a write-up for building the variable PW only mode circuit. It is pretty easy to build and I think most of everyone could assemble one themselves without too much trouble. The version with both modes would be easy if we were using a printed cicuit board. That way you would only have to drop everything into place and solder. Unfortunately, it wouldn't be worth the cost for a basic circuit like this. The PCBs would probably cost $20 to $40 a piece to get made (especially since it would be low quantities).

In a few weeks, I'll have some more time. PM me if interested in a circuit. I will add you to the list. Maybe I'll make a thread about it when I get ready to build the next batch (if it is not against forum rules).

Kent

teejs

Thanks for the reply Kent, I am Definitely interested in obtaining one. I'm in the midst of re-restoring my SE. Do you need 'New-Unused' connectors or will clean oldies work? I start looking for both and I'll research the actual pins.
I hope the best for you on your trip...It takes a lot of dedication to do that.
Tom

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Either one is fine. If used, I would prefer to have about 3 ft of wire attached to each terminal. For the last batch I made, I used an old dash harness I had (the previous owner cut it all up, so I replaced it). The dash harness only has a couple of the correct connectors though. I would prefer not to have to destroy more harnesses if possible. There has to be somewhere that sells these connectors. You can also find these connectors on the back of the alt, speakers, illumination for the temp/blower controls, etc.

I may see if I can make some printed circuit boards. I have a program that will lay out the traces. They also have a special paper that you can print the image on with a laser printer. You then use an iron to transfer the toner on to the board. Then you etch away the copper that is exposed. You then just need to drill the holes and install the components. I tried the toner transfer thing before and it didn't work that well. This time may be easier since the boards are smaller than what I was using it on before. I also find it easier if I can keep the traces as wide as possible. I'll give it a shot. If it works, it should save me some time and maybe will cut a couple bucks off the final cost.

France should be fun. I will be in the south of France (in Aix en Provence). It is suppose to be very beautiful and has excellent weather. It will be a great experience and I will try to travel as much as I can. I will get 5 weeks vacation per year and a 35 hr work week. Can't beat that.

Kent

toxic_d

Kent, I'd be interested in on of the switching units... or at least a parts list to make up an auto-switching circut as your time seems to be short...

Toxic_d

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

In another week or so, I will start laying out the pattern for the printed circuit boards. I am thinking of adding a connection on the side of the box for future upgrades. I could run the fixed PW pulse, the variable PW pulse, the switching mode, 12v, 5v, ground, and maybe the output from the J-109. We just need to determine if it is worth doing or not. It would be pretty easy to add using PCBs. I am not sure what this connection would be good for (digital tach, RPM switch, shift light ??). The printed circuit boards would take a little more time up front, but would save a lot of time building. Since it seems a fair number of people are interested in the mod, using PCBs is probably the way to go. I will keep you all updated on the design.

I was thinking, I could do:

- complete built units (just connect to power, ground, coil, and ignitor)
- pre-built boards (you supply mounting box and wiring to board)
- PCB by itself (maybe with components) for people who want to assemble it themselves

- toxic_d: I'll add you to the list.

Kent

Kentetsu

Just wanted to give another update on my impressions of this mod. A couple of days ago I converted back to the stock ignition system just to see if I could feel a difference. The answer is HELL YEAH!!!

The gizmo seems to provide more juice all across the rpm range, but is mostly noticeable once you pass 4k. The tack shoots right up to the redline effortlessly on the fixed pw mode!

With the stock system, the rpms slowly go up to the redline when compared to the new setup. Plus, there is a lot more vibration and the engine just feels like its really struggling (again, by comparison). Also, when converting back, I adjusted the timing to the same setting that I was running the new setup at, so that's not why there is a difference.

Anyway, just wanted to keep you guys updated on how its working out for me. I've got about 1,000 miles on the system now and can't wait to get it hooked back up again (should only take 3 minutes or so)....

toxic_d

bump don't want thie buried

clubber

Kent, I PM'ed you a while back about getting in on the next set of this mod. This is just a reminder so you don't think I lost interest. Thanks

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the bump, guys. I haven't forgotten about you. I have you both on a list for a circuit. Give me a couple weeks and I'll start cranking more stuff out. I have this pesky doctoral dissertation to get taken care of first.

Kent

toxic_d

Bump

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

man this is confusing. i guess since im blonde i dont understand it. i have 2 2gen coils sitting and sittting i guess they;ll do until i can understand this more. i would like to try this new mode with even better spark but oh well