Trailing timing adjust????
05-06-04, 06:31 PM
#1
DSM
Thread Starter
Trailing timing adjust????
I got the leading timing good, but the trailing timing is off. I think the haynes manual said to do something on the dizzy trailing vaccuum thing or whatever.
I thought I adjusted it according to the manual but it did nothing for the timing.
I HAVE removed my rats nest if that makes a difference.
How do you adjust the trailind timing?
I thought I adjusted it according to the manual but it did nothing for the timing.
I HAVE removed my rats nest if that makes a difference.
How do you adjust the trailind timing?
05-06-04, 06:38 PM
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Trailing timing is adjusted through a X-head screw inside the distributor housing that is only revealed by removal of the stator (the rotating head assembly), and the metal cover that protects the vacuum advance plates. You'll have to look at your dizzy to see, I may have remember this wrong; the adjusting screw may be on the outside...
Anyway, this isn't an easy process to do, since it requires you to adjust, turn it on and check timing, turn it off, adjust, turn it on to check timing, etc.
Be advised that the vacuum advance adjusts BOTH leading and trailing under acceleration via the Vacuum Solenoid Valve that you've conveniently removed along with your rat's nest. My guess would be that you have no vacuum advance on either unless you have another vacuum source hooked up.
Reply back with what you find, and I'm sure somebody here has done this without a rat's nest installed. Best of luck,
Anyway, this isn't an easy process to do, since it requires you to adjust, turn it on and check timing, turn it off, adjust, turn it on to check timing, etc.
Be advised that the vacuum advance adjusts BOTH leading and trailing under acceleration via the Vacuum Solenoid Valve that you've conveniently removed along with your rat's nest. My guess would be that you have no vacuum advance on either unless you have another vacuum source hooked up.
Reply back with what you find, and I'm sure somebody here has done this without a rat's nest installed. Best of luck,
05-06-04, 06:55 PM
#3
Airflow is my life
Long duck, put down the 
pipe dude. 
Ryan, turning the dizzy is for leading adjustment but will aosl affect the trailing. So now that the leading is right this is what you do. On the trailing vacuum advance pot (where the vacuum hose goes to) youll see 2 screws and that the holes are slotted. Also if its not too corroded or dirty you'll see hash marks that are a guide. Loosen the 2 screws and slide the pot in and out while the timing light is hooked to the T1 wire. Youll see that the trailing only will now be adjustable this way.
pipe dude. Ryan, turning the dizzy is for leading adjustment but will aosl affect the trailing. So now that the leading is right this is what you do. On the trailing vacuum advance pot (where the vacuum hose goes to) youll see 2 screws and that the holes are slotted. Also if its not too corroded or dirty you'll see hash marks that are a guide. Loosen the 2 screws and slide the pot in and out while the timing light is hooked to the T1 wire. Youll see that the trailing only will now be adjustable this way.
05-06-04, 07:10 PM
#4
DSM
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Rx7carl
Long duck, put down the pipe dude.
Ryan, turning the dizzy is for leading adjustment but will aosl affect the trailing. So now that the leading is right this is what you do. On the trailing vacuum advance pot (where the vacuum hose goes to) youll see 2 screws and that the holes are slotted. Also if its not too corroded or dirty you'll see hash marks that are a guide. Loosen the 2 screws and slide the pot in and out while the timing light is hooked to the T1 wire. Youll see that the trailing only will now be adjustable this way.
Long duck, put down the
pipe dude. Ryan, turning the dizzy is for leading adjustment but will aosl affect the trailing. So now that the leading is right this is what you do. On the trailing vacuum advance pot (where the vacuum hose goes to) youll see 2 screws and that the holes are slotted. Also if its not too corroded or dirty you'll see hash marks that are a guide. Loosen the 2 screws and slide the pot in and out while the timing light is hooked to the T1 wire. Youll see that the trailing only will now be adjustable this way.
It doesnt change anything. I took off the rats nest according to yourguys tutorial i thought-- ran tubes from both of the "pots" into a "T" then plugged it into second from the left port on the carb spacer
DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG?
05-06-04, 07:49 PM
#5
Airflow is my life
No, its not you. Sometimes a timing light will pick up the leading signal even though its hooked to the trailing wire. They just arent sheilded enough for a car with dual igintions I guess. Try another light if you can borrow one. Or move it to a different location on the wire to try to eliminate the interference.
I got 2 timing lights. My good one is worthless on a rotary, but my wal mart special works like a champ. I dunno why exactly.
I got 2 timing lights. My good one is worthless on a rotary, but my wal mart special works like a champ. I dunno why exactly.
, I was having the same issue . ill try and reply
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05-06-04, 08:49 PM
#8
Airflow is my life
I dont have a direct hook up light, only inductive ones. I would suspect that a direct one would not have this problem, but again I dont have one to try out. Soooooooooooooo.................. let me make another suggestion. Maybe your advance plate is sticking or has a seized bearing. To check it try this. Pull off the cap, rotor and metal shield. Youll be able to see the rod that goes from the vacuum advance pots and see where it terminates. Now loosen the screws and move the trailing pot in and out. One of the plates should move with it (one with the trailing mag pickup). If the bearing is bad or stuck, the plate wont move and the rod will only compress into and out of the vacuum pot. This is really hard to explain in words.
05-06-04, 09:15 PM
#11
DSM
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Rx7carl
I dont have a direct hook up light, only inductive ones. I would suspect that a direct one would not have this problem, but again I dont have one to try out. Soooooooooooooo.................. let me make another suggestion. Maybe your advance plate is sticking or has a seized bearing. To check it try this. Pull off the cap, rotor and metal shield. Youll be able to see the rod that goes from the vacuum advance pots and see where it terminates. Now loosen the screws and move the trailing pot in and out. One of the plates should move with it (one with the trailing mag pickup). If the bearing is bad or stuck, the plate wont move and the rod will only compress into and out of the vacuum pot. This is really hard to explain in words.
I dont have a direct hook up light, only inductive ones. I would suspect that a direct one would not have this problem, but again I dont have one to try out. Soooooooooooooo.................. let me make another suggestion. Maybe your advance plate is sticking or has a seized bearing. To check it try this. Pull off the cap, rotor and metal shield. Youll be able to see the rod that goes from the vacuum advance pots and see where it terminates. Now loosen the screws and move the trailing pot in and out. One of the plates should move with it (one with the trailing mag pickup). If the bearing is bad or stuck, the plate wont move and the rod will only compress into and out of the vacuum pot. This is really hard to explain in words.
Im gonna try a different light in the morning just for the heck of it.
The weird taste is a good thing. 
Nothing like 20 year old rubber and stale air.
05-06-04, 09:46 PM
#15
DSM
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Rx7carl
Try disconnecting the vacuum line when you try to make the adjustment.
Try disconnecting the vacuum line when you try to make the adjustment.
Thanks for all the help. My dads gonna help me tomarow. Maybe we'll figure it out.
Ill post back
05-06-04, 10:28 PM
#16
Hunting Skylines
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
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Originally posted by LongDuck
Trailing timing is adjusted through a X-head screw inside the distributor housing that is only revealed by removal of the stator (the rotating head assembly), and the metal cover that protects the vacuum advance plates. You'll have to look at your dizzy to see, I may have remember this wrong; the adjusting screw may be on the outside...
Anyway, this isn't an easy process to do, since it requires you to adjust, turn it on and check timing, turn it off, adjust, turn it on to check timing, etc.
Be advised that the vacuum advance adjusts BOTH leading and trailing under acceleration via the Vacuum Solenoid Valve that you've conveniently removed along with your rat's nest. My guess would be that you have no vacuum advance on either unless you have another vacuum source hooked up.
Reply back with what you find, and I'm sure somebody here has done this without a rat's nest installed. Best of luck,
Trailing timing is adjusted through a X-head screw inside the distributor housing that is only revealed by removal of the stator (the rotating head assembly), and the metal cover that protects the vacuum advance plates. You'll have to look at your dizzy to see, I may have remember this wrong; the adjusting screw may be on the outside...
Anyway, this isn't an easy process to do, since it requires you to adjust, turn it on and check timing, turn it off, adjust, turn it on to check timing, etc.
Be advised that the vacuum advance adjusts BOTH leading and trailing under acceleration via the Vacuum Solenoid Valve that you've conveniently removed along with your rat's nest. My guess would be that you have no vacuum advance on either unless you have another vacuum source hooked up.
Reply back with what you find, and I'm sure somebody here has done this without a rat's nest installed. Best of luck,
05-07-04, 11:24 AM
#19
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Hey, I DID say that I wasn't completely sure and he'd have to have a look at it!
The part about removing the rotator assembly and the dust cover was for him to grease the plates that rotate under the vacuum pressure of the assist. If these plates are crudded up, no matter how much vacuum you give it, they're not going to turn, and that's for leading and trailing both.
I'm with the other guys on checking your timing light. My Autozone $29.95 special works great, but a dial-adjustable advance gun is a good investment if you like to tinker and tune.
HTH,
The part about removing the rotator assembly and the dust cover was for him to grease the plates that rotate under the vacuum pressure of the assist. If these plates are crudded up, no matter how much vacuum you give it, they're not going to turn, and that's for leading and trailing both.
I'm with the other guys on checking your timing light. My Autozone $29.95 special works great, but a dial-adjustable advance gun is a good investment if you like to tinker and tune.
HTH,
05-07-04, 11:41 AM
#20
DSM
Thread Starter
Originally posted by LongDuck
I'm with the other guys on checking your timing light. My Autozone $29.95 special works great, but a dial-adjustable advance gun is a good investment if you like to tinker and tune.
HTH,
I'm with the other guys on checking your timing light. My Autozone $29.95 special works great, but a dial-adjustable advance gun is a good investment if you like to tinker and tune.
HTH,
05-07-04, 01:31 PM
#21
I'm sure it is.
And yes, it's a good idea to check for movement of the pickups manually with the engine not running. They should move clockwise at least a little when pushed. You should be able to feel the spring tension inside the vacuum 'things' and the pickups should return to their original position when pressure is removed. If not, something needs to be greased.
And yes, it's a good idea to check for movement of the pickups manually with the engine not running. They should move clockwise at least a little when pushed. You should be able to feel the spring tension inside the vacuum 'things' and the pickups should return to their original position when pressure is removed. If not, something needs to be greased.
05-07-04, 07:49 PM
#22
DSM
Thread Starter
okay, I got a different light tested the leading...Its good.
Trailing is the same thing though. I try to adjust it and nothing happens.
I really annoyed with this.
Trailing is the same thing though. I try to adjust it and nothing happens.
I really annoyed with this.
05-07-04, 08:15 PM
#23
DSM
Thread Starter
SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME IF THIS IS RIGHT!!
trailing is on top
leading is on bottom
L1 -----------bottom/front sparkplug
T1 -----------top/front
L2------------bottom/rear
T2------------top/rear
I have been having problems with not being able to adjust my trailig timing.
I hooked the light to the leading! wire and the marks adjusted when i moved the "pot" on the distributor.
WHICH POT SHOULD I BE MOVING TO ADJUST THE TRAILING TIMING?
1 or 2
trailing is on top
leading is on bottom
L1 -----------bottom/front sparkplug
T1 -----------top/front
L2------------bottom/rear
T2------------top/rear
I have been having problems with not being able to adjust my trailig timing.
I hooked the light to the leading! wire and the marks adjusted when i moved the "pot" on the distributor.
WHICH POT SHOULD I BE MOVING TO ADJUST THE TRAILING TIMING?
1 or 2
05-07-04, 08:31 PM
#24
Airflow is my life
Your right about the plugs. Which coil is going to the leading on your dizzy cap? The front coil should be trailing, rear coil leading. Seen alot of them switched accidentally. Only one pot (1 IIRC) has the slotted adjustment (and thats the trailing). The other is fixed in place. Someone has swapped wires on the car somewhere along the line. Either a high tension coil wire, or the other wires for the coils.
05-07-04, 08:44 PM
#25
DSM
Thread Starter
Well carl, that was the problem. the coil wires were switched. I think one of my friends was messing with them
It runs alot smoother now.
Thanks for all the help
It runs alot smoother now.
Thanks for all the help