hornbm

I have the racingbeat under drive main pulley, and the dual belt alternator pulley. Ever since I put on the alternator pulley, my charging at idle has really taken a hit. Used to be right around 14 volts, now I'm around 13.5. The guages even brighten up when I rev the engine.

Anyway, the only reason why I wondering is because I got my alternator used (80amp Second gen)and I have no idea how old it is. The bearings in it squeel just a little if you spin the pulley by hand.

Could this be a sign that my alternator is going out, or do I need to lay off the under driving?

Rotofire

alt is going, that's my opinion, the bearing i don't see how they have too god awful much about the lights brightening and what not.

Anex 570

Also check your battery, if its more then about 2 years old, it could be just going itself, because thats what contains the charge from your alt. Its pretty messed up about the whole thing, but are you lights at regular brightness then really light up when you hit the gas?

GavinJuice

your pretty much running off of your alternator when the car is running. Do you have a load on your charging system ie., car audio? That alone will slowly kill your alternator.

wwilliam54

get a buick alternator

cdrad51

My car tends to do the same, though I don't have underdrive pulleys. All lights will brighten up if I rev the car. However voltage will be at about 14 volts. Battery is new so it's now an issue, even though I'm aware is mostly up to the alt when the car is running. I only have about 400 watts on the stereo system, would that be enough to kill the alt?

wwilliam54

stock alt is 60amp

wouldnt help, you need to check your grounding

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

the RB pulleys doesnt supposes to reduce the speed of the alternator and the water pump? theres your answer in idle is so slow that only outputs 13.5 volts. that why is like that. maibe im wrong but that what i believe

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Underdrive Pullies suck on street driven cars - period.
It may not be the source of your problem, but it is definately a contributor.

hornbm

yeah i didnt really have a choice as far as the pulleys go, all racing beat pulleys are underdrive. I needed the dual belt alternator pulley and the timing marks on my stock main pulley were wrong.


Eddie, your probably right, I mean the pulleys arent helping anything, but I dont know if the alternator is adding to the problem. Basically what DF said.

Is anyone else using both under drive pulleys?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

The one Manntis sells is a double Alternator pulley, and is NOT underdriven.

NOTE:

1) A 2nd Gen (TII) Alternator wouldn't hurt One Bit
2) Replacing all the lighting in the car with High Intensity LED's will significantly reduce the electrical drain at night as well.

hornbm

Hey I have a second gen 80 amp alternator right now, but its N/A. Do you know what the difference between the N/A and the TII ones are?

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

i dont think theres a difference betwen them. the sec gen forum may can answer that

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

FB = 50 Amps?
SE = 55 Amps (Could be series III)
FC N/A = 70 Amps
TII = 80 Amps
Cosmo = 90 Amps
FD = 100 AMPS

Halfbridge12aT

FD alternator sounds really good right now i bet i can run my two 15" rockfords off that no problem

wwilliam54

ask rotary dankusagain about putting in a buick alt

they are like 50$ tops and put out 150 amps

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, you can't go wrong with the FD Alternator.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=172766

hornbm

S5 N/A alternators are 80 amp as well....

rotarydankus again

dude 13.5 at idle is nothin to complain about , check you specs thats above factory idle spec, more along the lines of 1500rpm or so, besides to get rite down to it voltage is irrelevant as long as it s around 13 its amps output that matters. ive got 120 amps , it kicks out 60 amp at idle but only around 13 volts,At full load it sees 95, thats all loads +electric fan hybrid ign, after market f/p, defrost high heat you name it head lites everything. the only time i see 14 volts is rite off idle no load. and your lites wont brighten with engine speed if you relay the headlites and get the load off of the lite switch . voltage drop across the low beem curcuit is uasually around 2 volts . so the lites werent gettin the 13.5 even, after relay conversion they are within .2 volts of alt out put voltage, alot brighter,