Today's Hard Core Technical Question Part 2
05-11-04, 07:21 AM
#1
More Mazdas than Sense
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sunny Downtown Fenwick
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Today's Hard Core Technical Question Part 2
Alright, second question, and I am looking for answers other than "Tighten the belt, idiot!"
After I start the car, the alternator does not produce any output until I rev it over 5000rpm. I can drive all I want under 5000, and the voltage just gets lower and lower. Once I rev past 5000, the volts jump up to 13, and stay there until I turn the car off.
What could be causing this? I will accept answers that explain why a belt may start turning the alternator properly above 5000 and not below, but "Tighten the belt, idiot!" is still out.
Thanks for the help. The winner will be sent my congratulations, and, if they are canadian, a certificate for $1000 off their next GM vehicle.
After I start the car, the alternator does not produce any output until I rev it over 5000rpm. I can drive all I want under 5000, and the voltage just gets lower and lower. Once I rev past 5000, the volts jump up to 13, and stay there until I turn the car off.
What could be causing this? I will accept answers that explain why a belt may start turning the alternator properly above 5000 and not below, but "Tighten the belt, idiot!" is still out.
Thanks for the help. The winner will be sent my congratulations, and, if they are canadian, a certificate for $1000 off their next GM vehicle.
05-11-04, 07:47 AM
#2
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 510 Likes
on
345 Posts
Nah, I think I'm gonna answer this one first and then move onto #1... 
Anywhoozer, how new is the alternator. Could be bad... I've had em so that they don't produce much usable power till high RPM...
Also what year GSL did you put the SE engine into?
I believe earlier cars had an external voltage regulator. Later cars have them internal to the alternator. Running two voltage regulators might mess with things.
Anywhoozer, how new is the alternator. Could be bad... I've had em so that they don't produce much usable power till high RPM...
Also what year GSL did you put the SE engine into?
I believe earlier cars had an external voltage regulator. Later cars have them internal to the alternator. Running two voltage regulators might mess with things.
05-11-04, 08:33 AM
#4
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Northern South Africa
Posts: 969
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with Pele.The voltage regulator is acting up.
The coils inside start to charge @ low rpm allready (900 if i remember correctly).The regulator is suppose to supply it with a switch on voltage; for the diode bridge to be activated.The diode bridge then converts it to dc.
These days the regulator and bridge are a integrated unit.
Karis
The coils inside start to charge @ low rpm allready (900 if i remember correctly).The regulator is suppose to supply it with a switch on voltage; for the diode bridge to be activated.The diode bridge then converts it to dc.
These days the regulator and bridge are a integrated unit.
Karis
Trending Topics
05-11-04, 11:55 PM
#10
FD > FB > FC
Originally posted by GavinJuice
14-15? NO. Anything above 12.5 is charging but you should be sitting between 13-13.5 on a properly charging system.
14-15? NO. Anything above 12.5 is charging but you should be sitting between 13-13.5 on a properly charging system.
14-15 is what is supposed to be on a properly charging system
Last edited by hornbm; 05-11-04 at 11:59 PM.
05-12-04, 12:08 PM
#15
"If the voltage produced by the alternator goes above 13.5 - 14.5 volts, the battery will be ruined very quickly. It's the job of the voltage regulator to keep the output voltage between the 13.5 - 14.5 volt range."
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/elect.../aa122700a.htm
So we're both right. Go check your charging system on your car and tell me how many volts your actually putting out.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/elect.../aa122700a.htm
So we're both right. Go check your charging system on your car and tell me how many volts your actually putting out.
05-12-04, 12:28 PM
#16
More Mazdas than Sense
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sunny Downtown Fenwick
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow, all this talk about how inacurate the gauges are in Hardcore Technical Question, and the fact that I glanced at my gauge and read 13 volts almost causes a riot!
Anywho, worse of 2 alternators is in getting rebuilt, 5000rpm alternator is in the car now, and I am getting the temp probe tonight for investigation purposes.
Anywho, worse of 2 alternators is in getting rebuilt, 5000rpm alternator is in the car now, and I am getting the temp probe tonight for investigation purposes.
05-12-04, 05:41 PM
#17
Old [Sch|F]ool
The voltage is temperature-sensitive. When it's hot out (think Arizona in August) then you'll be seeing low 14's maybe high 13's to prevent from cooking the battery. Conversely you can see as high as 15-15.3 in the cold (think Minnesota in February).
So: 14-15 volts.
So: 14-15 volts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
