Smitch

hey
Im learning to drive and need a car to learn on. Ive been keen on rotaries for ages and ive almost got enough to go buy one.

So can anybody give me tips in buying a 1st gen. Like problems to look for. How to tell weather the engine has seen its day etc... Whats about the limit a 12a can go to (in mileage).

Thanks alot
Smitch

DONNA

Hi and welcome, there are several of your countrymen on this forum, you could try sending them a PM for some tips as well . I have over 150k miles on my 85, and it runs better than when I got it because of neglect from previous owner, if you find a running one for cheep than go for it, the rest is just how much you want to do with the car.

Steve Shulz

The only way to tell if an engine has "seen its day" is to do a compression check. The cars also have a tendance to rust in the storage bins (benind the seats) and in the drainage holes at the rear hatch (they get clogged and water just sits). Once again it all depends on what you want to do with the car and how much money and time you want to put in it. Welcome and good luck.

Rx7carl

Welcome to the forum.
Rust- rear wheel wells are prone to rusting. You need to remove the rear bins and have a look. Alternatively, look in the front side of the rear wheel wells, and lower, back section of the rocker panels. Another trouble spot is the lip along the rear hatch area.

Look more for condition than milage on the engine. Low milage engines can be bad, and hi milers be good. Look for smoke on startup and/or while running. White smoke can mean bad coolant seals. If you are able, a compression test on the motor will tell alot about its condition.

Hah Steve, you beat me. I guess I type too slow.

Steve Shulz

You betcha! Two are heads always better than one. I got your back too Carl!

Smitch

ok thanks i will be sure to check. I just dont want to spend all my hard earned funds on a car thats going to need repairs a few months down the track.

DONNA

if its going to be your only source of transportation than i would recommend getting something more dependable like a civic or corolla, unless you can buy a 7 thats been taken care of with receipts showing such, but you will be looking at a higher price for such a 7. and maybe keep looking for a cheeper 7 to build up....just my 2 cents,, some here swear by their 7 but if you read the forum alot, u will see a trend on how they do have their problems, not like civics and toyotas that seem to go and go up to and exceeding 200k miles with little maintence.....and double the gas mileage too...not slamming the 7s, but when mine is down i do have another car so not to be stranded for work school etc..

Smitch

before i go buying anything im going to pay to get a proper inspection done to catch out any big probs. But i do see wher your comin from. I just carnt see myslef driving anything else. And for the money I want to spend there isnt anything much better.

A freind bought a corrolla in top condition aboslutley nothing wrong with it, it lasted less than a year before stuff started going wrong. Wasnt like he didnt look after it either.

Its still something ive gotta think about
Thanks

Rx7carl

Yea, the good thing about these cars is that they are so simple. Most repairs can be done with average tools.

rotarymotorcars7

if you want my 2cents... i think these cars could outlast a honda.. toyota or anything like that....if they was taking good care of!! ive had many cars way over the 200k mark, and i just sold a 88 vert last fall with 350k miles on it... i knew the person who bought it new and ALLWAYS kept it up... But he did kill it one day sitting in traffic and blew water hose and over heated it...i bought it and poured tranny fluid in it to crank it... well it started and sot the radiator cap off... you know what happend! i just wanted to share that!

Rotofire

i paid 3K for my 85 gsl, with 69K on the original engine and body....the car is beautiful, well worth the money, although i beleive i paid a little much. Rust, comprestion, carb gum, are all good things to look for in a bad car.

Keaponlaffen

My toyota 4x4's got 375,000 km's on the original engine, still purrs like a kitten after a few rocker clearance adjustments, and a new timing chain and gears at ~350,000. Other than that, the only other thing I've replaced was the alternator and a few other minor things that usually have problems after high mileage.

And this is in a truck that's been abused for 90% of it's life. It still gets 23-26 mpg though, even with stock 4.10's and 33x12.50 AT tires.... Used to get 25 and up on 31's.

My RX-7 gets about 14 mpg, has sucked my wallet dry more than once, mainly 'cause parts are expensive, and has gone through more than 3 engines in it's 295,000 km life. It wasn't even really driven hard, as I know the previous owner who bought it in the 90's at a fairly low mileage...

I have to admit though, for in-town driving, etc, I'd much prefer the 7 to the truck, but I'm a 'wheeler at heart, so the Yota is the daily driver for now.

Smitch

how do i check compression? Also can you please explain carb gum? If i find it on the car, what does it mean?

Thanks again

DONNA

use a compression guage, should see the same numbers on all rotations, and gum forms from gas that has sat up in a carb, fuel line, fuel tank,,,,that hasn't been run for sometime..
I commend you for asking questions, it shows that you are wanting to learn about auto mechanics,,,the best way not to get stranded while driving...
and by using the forum search it will help answer most all your questions too.

Smitch

so how does carb gum affect the car? How is it repaired?

Thanks Donna, hopefully ill learn enough to buy a reliable one, and one day help someone else out around here.

DONNA

it will/can totally block off your fuel supply,,,no gas to keep car running......sometims using carb cleaner will help but in worst case a carb rebuild is needed...

Smitch

thats definatley not a good thing, ill make sure i check.
I carnt wait to drive one. I probably wont be able to test drive as im only on my Learners licence. But ill get my dad to go for a drive so we can sus it out further.

Ive found one im my area for $4400 Australian ($3,424usd). I havnt had a look at it yet, but its a manual '82. White with 130,000kms (80,000 miles) on the clock. Its aparently full original and ment to be in good running order with a good body and a few small spots of rust.

DONNA

sounds to me like a great find,,low miles, price is a little steep, but may be able to talk him down some...start a new thread when you return with all the new info you have from the test drive,,,also either you or someone else stand next to the car at startup,,,check what color smoke (if any) is comming from the muffler when it starts,,,,,,a little is pretty normal for a minute but not for longer.....check the colors of the fluids too,,brake, clutch should be nearly clear, radiator green, red or blue not brown, and the oil on the dip stick clear not burnt smelling, open the oil filler tube and check for excessive amounts of rust in the tube,,,,,good luck and keep reading and searching the old post,,lots of usefull info here to get you familiar with the 7's......

Smitch

hey, thanks donna.
what fuel do the 1st gens run on? It would be leaded right? Leaded petrol (sorry 'gas') is being phased out over here, and pretty soon we are going to have to buy lead supplements and add it to the tank after we have filled up.

What year did the Rx7s start using unleaded petrol?

Sorry, we call is petrol over here instead of gas.

Thanks in advance
Smitch

DONNA

they use unleaded and the lowest octane you can get is the best for these engines,, here is some reading 4u.
http://www.rx-7.org/1stgen/index.htm
did you get to test drive one yet,,,,,

CPekel

That price is actually pretty spot-on for a car with those sort of kilometres on it, provided the overall condition is excellent.
The Americans (most of you) on this board should realise that older cars are worth more here than they are in your country.

Rx7carl

Cool, wanna buy a few of mine?

RX7UP

Rust, Rust, Rust...... Check for rust..... Wheel wells Remove rear tire and check there... Open hatch and check in water drains, etc.... Engines last to about 150-175 miles...

JAMES-RX-007

Here is a general strategy. Looking back on how much more I have paid to maintain and repair my car than I paid to buy it (2 1/2) after 2 yrs I would recommend searching hard for one that has been well maintained and had lots of repairs/maintenance-in other words one that does not need lots on near term repairs that will only show once you get it and start finding problems along the way. A car this old will always need lots of replacement parts and service but if you can find one where someone has already done much of it then it will be behind you and you will pay less for it and spend less time doing it or having it done. Spend several hundred $ (us) to determine the detailed condition of the car at a dealer or good independent shop-preferably rotary performance/repair oriented- before spending thousands of $ to buy a car that you only later discover needs $thousands to repair/maintain.

Smitch

Ok thanks alot.
I havnt test drived one yet, but i will be this weekend. Ill tell you how it all goes.

Smitch