Timing Questions?
12-18-06, 05:39 PM
#1
Timing Questions?
I have tried to search for the info relavent to my setup. I have two confusing issues. First, I am running a stockport 12A with appr. 25k miles. I am using a S4 turbo. I would like to run her at 10 pounds of boost. The thing that scares me from trying that mutch boost is the timing. I am using the 2GDFIS. I know this retards the timing 10 degrees. so you would have to advance the timing 10 just to get it back stock. So after I lock the dizzy, my initial timing at idle should be about 10 degrees before TDC. Second is the trailing. By advancing the leading to compensate for the 2GDFIS, wouldn't this put the trailing at 30 after TDC? I'm confused. My take on locking the dizzy at full advance will put the timing at 20 before TDC. So when I put the timing back to 10 on the leading where will I need my trailing timing? Or should I say screw the trailing? So confused, so confused. Any help here guys?
12-18-06, 07:19 PM
#3
Okay, I still don't get the trailing. The leading would be basically +20 with the 2GDFIS. So is there going to be enough adjustment in the trailing to get it to -10? I am assuming the 10 degrees would be the same advancement on the trailing. I am getting a spare dizzy to play with. I don't know if anyone else is using this setup with the 2GDFIS and a locked dizzy for turbo. We shall see. I just don't want to damage anything experimenting!
12-19-06, 02:10 PM
#5
heres the math as i figure.locked in advance will fire the L at 10 BTDC and T 10 ATDC.w/ 2GDFIS, you will have a 10* split and should also cancel out the 10* advance on the leading, L timing should now be back at 0*, and the T will be firing at 10* ATDC(locked at full advance).
12-20-06, 03:51 PM
#6
That is what I was thinking! But I will need the leading at 10btdc, and the trailing at 10atdc. I have got the spare dizzy to play with, but I can't get that stupid screw in the middle if the shaft to break loose. Always my luck. Is there any good tricks to get that screw out?
12-21-06, 01:53 AM
#7
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by bad 83
That is what I was thinking! But I will need the leading at 10btdc, and the trailing at 10atdc. I have got the spare dizzy to play with, but I can't get that stupid screw in the middle if the shaft to break loose. Always my luck. Is there any good tricks to get that screw out?
just lock the dist. and run it the way its made to.... simple
oh and your timing speculation on what you think the timing is is way off....
do a search on locking the distributor, seanrot did a nice write up...
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12-21-06, 05:32 PM
#9
The reason I took the center screw out was to remove the top section from the shaft. I wanted to use the locater plate to make sure I got the fly weights out to the maximum distance before tack welding them into place. Plus it makes it alot easier to clean all the parts up before reassembly. I don't like putting dirty parts back together. Yes, senrot did a very nice write-up on using the stock ignition, but as I stated before, running the 2GCDFIS w/TT that gsl-se addict designed retards the leading 8 to 10 degrees. So how would this be off? This is the write-up that senrot posted.
"1. have the top on, grab the gear on the bottom and turn it till the weights go out. carefully remove the top and weld. my trick to this is to use a dremel with a cutting disk and grind down the top of the peg that the weight swings on. grinding it make a little rough area on top that stops the weights from moving around so much and gives a nice flat easy to weld surface.
2. With the two forms of advance on the dizzy, mechanical and vacuum. You actually are retarding the timing by locking it. I believe that on a stock dizzy that the mech and vac together advance the timing 20 degree. So , you set your timing at 0 then drive or rev your engine it changes the timing. After locking the dizzy it is set at your desired timing spot and wont change. In essence you have retarded 5 degrees at 5psi, 10 degrees at 10psi using the numbers that CarlRx7 posted above.
5psi = lock at 15 ---- 5 degrees retarded
10psi = lock at 10 ----10 degrees retarded
15psi = lock at 5 -----15 degrees retarded"
This is what gsl-le addict posted.
"Now that everything is connected. It is time to test. First, double check all your connections and make sure they are correct. Once that is checked, turn the key to the ON position. The LED of the circuit should light. Now try to start the car. When cranking or at idle, you will see the LED blinking. Above idle, it will look solid as it flashes so fast, the human eye can’t detect the flashing.
If the car starts, you will need to reset timing. This circuit has shown to retard timing 8* to 10*. Reset to factory or your desired timing. Now take the car for a spin and see what you think."
See, I do know how to use the archives.
"1. have the top on, grab the gear on the bottom and turn it till the weights go out. carefully remove the top and weld. my trick to this is to use a dremel with a cutting disk and grind down the top of the peg that the weight swings on. grinding it make a little rough area on top that stops the weights from moving around so much and gives a nice flat easy to weld surface.
2. With the two forms of advance on the dizzy, mechanical and vacuum. You actually are retarding the timing by locking it. I believe that on a stock dizzy that the mech and vac together advance the timing 20 degree. So , you set your timing at 0 then drive or rev your engine it changes the timing. After locking the dizzy it is set at your desired timing spot and wont change. In essence you have retarded 5 degrees at 5psi, 10 degrees at 10psi using the numbers that CarlRx7 posted above.
5psi = lock at 15 ---- 5 degrees retarded
10psi = lock at 10 ----10 degrees retarded
15psi = lock at 5 -----15 degrees retarded"
This is what gsl-le addict posted.
"Now that everything is connected. It is time to test. First, double check all your connections and make sure they are correct. Once that is checked, turn the key to the ON position. The LED of the circuit should light. Now try to start the car. When cranking or at idle, you will see the LED blinking. Above idle, it will look solid as it flashes so fast, the human eye can’t detect the flashing.
If the car starts, you will need to reset timing. This circuit has shown to retard timing 8* to 10*. Reset to factory or your desired timing. Now take the car for a spin and see what you think."
See, I do know how to use the archives.
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