Timing & distributor question
03-28-10, 04:04 PM
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Timing & distributor question
Hey guys quick question, is it possible for my 1984 mazda rx7 GSL to run if the distributor is installed backwards? When Im timing the marks on the pulley are at the bottom. Im just curious if you can get them to run good with the distributor installed 180 degrees backwards? Im thinking the pulley might be installed upside down, thanks.
03-28-10, 05:37 PM
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I have read through all of the archives about the flywheel way of setting TDC, I am not sure if I have it right since I have a centerforce lightweight flywheel on the car, it doesn't look the same as in the pictures. I have the distributor rotor arm (it has an arrow on it) pointed at the L1 pickup on the distributor cap, I think that should be TDC, but my timing marks aren't at the timing pin, the timing marks on the pulley are about a quarter way around from the pin. Which makes me believe that the pulley is on upside down, but I guess there is only one way to put the pulley on the car due to the keying. The car is running fine, it's just I would like to be able to time the car.
03-28-10, 05:53 PM
#5
Yeah, shutup kid.
The hub the pulley is on is keyed to the e-shaft, but the pulley is bolted to the hub with 4 bolts and can be put on wrong. The pulley or distributor could be on wrong. With the timing mark lined up and the dizzy cap off the rotor should be pointing at the drivers seat, if the timing mark is in the right place. Since you say it runs good and the timing mark is 90deg off, just unbolt the pulley and spin it.
03-28-10, 06:26 PM
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If you have an aftermaket lightweight flywheel that has a separate counterweight, you have to align the counterweight in the top inspection plate. I think the info is in the same thread about finding TDC.
There's actually a much better way to verify TDC by feeding oil into the front rotor housing. It's in the 2nd gen forums, I believe Hailers posted that thread. If you don't feel like dumping several ounces of oil into your engine, similar method can be done using air. If you have an adapter for a compression tester, screw it into the leading plug hole and slide a clipped off finger from a thin rubber glove over it and secure it so it's airtight. Then slowly turn the engine by hand. The rotor will push the air out, inflating the finger as it approaches TDC. Once it's past TDC it will start sucking the air in instead and the finger will start to deflate. The idea is to find the spot where compression passes its highest point. Move the rotor back and fourth very slowly and notice the point where deflation beings. That's your TDC. It's not as accurate as Hailers' oil method, but it'll get you close enough to where you can determine if your pulley is on wrong.
MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE RUBBER FINGER SO IT DOESN'T GET SUCKED INTO THE ENGINE!
There's actually a much better way to verify TDC by feeding oil into the front rotor housing. It's in the 2nd gen forums, I believe Hailers posted that thread. If you don't feel like dumping several ounces of oil into your engine, similar method can be done using air. If you have an adapter for a compression tester, screw it into the leading plug hole and slide a clipped off finger from a thin rubber glove over it and secure it so it's airtight. Then slowly turn the engine by hand. The rotor will push the air out, inflating the finger as it approaches TDC. Once it's past TDC it will start sucking the air in instead and the finger will start to deflate. The idea is to find the spot where compression passes its highest point. Move the rotor back and fourth very slowly and notice the point where deflation beings. That's your TDC. It's not as accurate as Hailers' oil method, but it'll get you close enough to where you can determine if your pulley is on wrong.
MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE RUBBER FINGER SO IT DOESN'T GET SUCKED INTO THE ENGINE!
03-31-10, 10:41 AM
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Lets say my distributor was installed 180 degrees backwards, would the spark plug order have to be changed for the car to run? Im asking this because in a recipricating engine I was told the spark plug wires would have to be installed backwards also (as in firing order). Would this be the same situation for a rotary engine?? Would the car still run if it was backward?? The firing order would change though in the distributor to L2, L1, T2 T1? I would appreciate it if someone could let me know if my thinking is correct there, thanks.
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03-31-10, 11:18 AM
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Lets say my distributor was installed 180 degrees backwards, would the spark plug order have to be changed for the car to run? Im asking this because in a recipricating engine I was told the spark plug wires would have to be installed backwards also (as in firing order). Would this be the same situation for a rotary engine?? Would the car still run if it was backward?? The firing order would change though in the distributor to L2, L1, T2 T1? I would appreciate it if someone could let me know if my thinking is correct there, thanks.
when i put mine together i marked where #1 Leading on the cap is in reference to the distributor (i put the cap on, and drew a line from L1 to the distributor body) then i put the rotor in, lined it up with my mark, put the distributor in and was close enough to start it.
this will ONLY work when you know TDC, you are aligning the distributor with the rotors, basically
04-04-10, 05:15 PM
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I have a streetported 12a, anyone else know where exactly the bolt on the distributor should line up when timing your vehicle? OR the degrees that I should be running at for leading and trailing?
The car runs but idles rough and I can't get the car below 1100 RPM, I did the fluid distribution method to find TDC, it actually was at the yellow timing mark on the pulley, the distributor rotor was pointing at L2 when the yellow timing mark is on the pin, so I pulled the distributor and put it back in pointing at L1. The car would not start; So I moved the distributor 1 gear tooth advanced, wouldn't start. I did this two more times and it still wouldn't start, then I moved it back to where it was originally and it starts right up. Does this make sense to anyone? Could you tell me what is the degree for every tooth? Looks like 10 degrees for each distributor gear tooth?
Im wondering, does streetporting an engine require the timing to be that far advanced to run? I have a stock nikki carb, if I close the idle screw all the way how many turns opening is recommended as a good starting point? I would appreciate any ideas you can give me thanks.
The car runs but idles rough and I can't get the car below 1100 RPM, I did the fluid distribution method to find TDC, it actually was at the yellow timing mark on the pulley, the distributor rotor was pointing at L2 when the yellow timing mark is on the pin, so I pulled the distributor and put it back in pointing at L1. The car would not start; So I moved the distributor 1 gear tooth advanced, wouldn't start. I did this two more times and it still wouldn't start, then I moved it back to where it was originally and it starts right up. Does this make sense to anyone? Could you tell me what is the degree for every tooth? Looks like 10 degrees for each distributor gear tooth?
Im wondering, does streetporting an engine require the timing to be that far advanced to run? I have a stock nikki carb, if I close the idle screw all the way how many turns opening is recommended as a good starting point? I would appreciate any ideas you can give me thanks.
04-04-10, 09:23 PM
#10
when u had the mark on the pulley aligned with the pointer on the front cover, did u have the dimple on the dist gear aligned with the pointer on the dist shaft when u put it back in? the bolt the locks the dist in place is usually about middle ways in the slot.
04-04-10, 11:47 PM
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Yes, the two talley marks were aligned when I put the distributor back in pointing at L1. The car wouldn't start so I moved the rotor a tooth turning to the right, the car wouldn't start, so i did it again two more times. The car wouldn't start, until I moved the rotor back to pointing at L2. doesn't make sense to me. The engine can't be built out of time can it??
Where are the trailing distributor screws on the trailing vacuum diaphram with respect to the slots? I can't get the trailing to come anywhere close to the pin.
Where are the trailing distributor screws on the trailing vacuum diaphram with respect to the slots? I can't get the trailing to come anywhere close to the pin.
04-05-10, 12:13 AM
#13
bullshit. that is much more complicated than my old school tricks.
There's actually a much better way to verify TDC by feeding oil into the front rotor housing. It's in the 2nd gen forums, I believe Hailers posted that thread. If you don't feel like dumping several ounces of oil into your engine, similar method can be done using air. If you have an adapter for a compression tester, screw it into the leading plug hole and slide a clipped off finger from a thin rubber glove over it and secure it so it's airtight. Then slowly turn the engine by hand. The rotor will push the air out, inflating the finger as it approaches TDC. Once it's past TDC it will start sucking the air in instead and the finger will start to deflate. The idea is to find the spot where compression passes its highest point. Move the rotor back and fourth very slowly and notice the point where deflation beings. That's your TDC. It's not as accurate as Hailers' oil method, but it'll get you close enough to where you can determine if your pulley is on wrong.
MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE RUBBER FINGER SO IT DOESN'T GET SUCKED INTO THE ENGINE!
There's actually a much better way to verify TDC by feeding oil into the front rotor housing. It's in the 2nd gen forums, I believe Hailers posted that thread. If you don't feel like dumping several ounces of oil into your engine, similar method can be done using air. If you have an adapter for a compression tester, screw it into the leading plug hole and slide a clipped off finger from a thin rubber glove over it and secure it so it's airtight. Then slowly turn the engine by hand. The rotor will push the air out, inflating the finger as it approaches TDC. Once it's past TDC it will start sucking the air in instead and the finger will start to deflate. The idea is to find the spot where compression passes its highest point. Move the rotor back and fourth very slowly and notice the point where deflation beings. That's your TDC. It's not as accurate as Hailers' oil method, but it'll get you close enough to where you can determine if your pulley is on wrong.
MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE RUBBER FINGER SO IT DOESN'T GET SUCKED INTO THE ENGINE!
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