1982 GS 160k miles

 

Stiff cracked leaking accel pump diaphragm. Time for a rebuild kit. Smoky engine too.

Do not change the needles and seats or adjust the floats! Leave them alone! You might also consider cutting a new baseplate gasket out of thicker paper because the new one in the kit is super thin and can lead to vacuum leaks. The gasket that fits between the main body and cast iron baseplate is the thin one. Also do not use any of the phenolic spacer gaskets that cheap rebuild kits come with. They raise the carb up and block emissions holes. Leave the original bonded gaskets on either side alone.

I tend to forget what a stock Nikki is actually like (slow, weak). It's too bad you're in CA. Otherwise I'd recommend a hogged out Nikki with a basic strip job to get rid of the rats nest and the bulky choke hardware all over the upper side of the carb. Not to mention the extra power you could have with better than stock driveability. I've been told it's on par with modern EFI. Something to think about.

 

Engine rebuild or Carb rebuild? Probably going to need a little more written information to help you out on this one, dude.

How many miles?
Ever tracked?
How much oil consumption in X many miles?
Smokes on startup?
Smokes all the time?
Chain smokes like a trucker from Queens?

Help us to help you,

 

Originally I am from California yes, but currently in Germany.

It's 1982 GS 160k miles all stock. Besides E-fan and aluminum radiator.

I tracked it once at the nürburgring and that's where I drove it last. It drove fine off the track and as soon as I parked it and let it sit for little, I went to give it another lap before I went home and it started fine, drove it around toward entrance and it started to bog out on me like crazy I had to hold the choke out as I drove to get it back to the parking lot. I pulled the distributor cap and one of the prongs was bent and as you can see the carb was leaking. It pulled choke out when idling it was fine but if hit the acceleration pedal it'd die. I let it sit for a week or so . Started it up right meow and well this it. It smokes every time I start it. Well in the mornings at the first time of starting. Then it goes away. Higher Rpms lead to it smoking a lot too. To me it smells like fuel, not oil .. Oil consumption is actually pretty normal, compared to previous rx7s I've had.
I've never rebuilt a carb before but according to the threads here it doesn't seem to bad.

 

^^

 

Oh, well if you don't need to pass emissions, there is a lot of awesome stuff you can do to a Nikki and the rest of the car. And there is a lot of info on the forums. I've posted a ton of Nikki modding stuff. Start there and get some ideas for your setup.

 

Yeah, I'll be here for 3 years so I guess I can strip it of its rats nest even though everyone says not to.

 

My 2 cents. Read all the carb posts you can. Strip the rats nest, strip the carb and do the AP mod. Glazedham42 has best posts on this as I recall. Trim boosters. Note Jeff20b's recommendation concerning air bleeds on stripped carbs. I have had no issues whatsoever with mine, others seems to have.

 

Make a Fat Nikki! Do it!

 

A fat Nikki?

 

It's Farrel's term for a hogged out Nikki. They work far better than any stock Nikki because the stock carb's 20mm venturis are too small to flow worth anything, even for a stock port. And even Sterling's 22mm recommended size was found to be too small. I've found you need at least 23mm to get anything out of the carb. And then if you have supporting mods you can go bigger up to 24.5mm on stock ports.

Of course you you know my phrase for this carb modding stuff is a hogged out boost prepped Nikki where additional mods are performed for the carb to handle a full throttle run up to 8 grand in boost and then goes back to idle like it was nothing. I recommend this because I've learned recently that any carb that's been modified properly for boost can handle NA duties perfectly. So these days it's the only way I mod them anymore whether for NA or boost.