Something is seriously wrong with your carb. With that setup, my guess is that the car should make about 140 hp at the flywheel, mabey more. You should have beat that Olds hands down (btw, there was no quad 4 in early to mid 80's. that came later). As for getting into traffic, even my mostly stock, high mileage 12a with carb problems has no problem getting into traffic.

 

I agree that your carb is not tuned correctly. I bet a stock Nikki would feel more powerful.

Pele, yes, it's all I ever used (Dremel). My template was copied from some old '73 plates. I'm sure it's pretty close to the standard RB template. It worked fine on my R5 castings. I'm going to try it on my Y castings soon.

 

I said SOME of them.....read

85 rotarypower, when you say there was no quad in the 80's, are you refering to the olds? If so you must be off your rocker, they had quads in the frickin 60's, and sure did in the 80's.

 

the tail pipe is full of black soot

 

so I need jets and metering rods and springs and such, right?
I've got a stock carb out in the garage somewhere, but I dont think it will bolt onto the RB manifold, that and I'm not sure what should be plugged and what shouldnt, as well as I no longer have a return line
Hey Carl, can I plug the return line on the nikki?

 

you should do a DLIDFIS setup lol... and tune up that carb! bet u'd be doing great after that... theres no reason u should be slower than most of the conservative drivers out there

 

I dont know if I'm really slower than the conservative ones, its just the ones with egos that dont want to let me over, hehe. please forgive my ignorance, if thats possible as much as you have to deal with it... but what is DLIDFIS?
Dont Laugh I Didnt Fit In Sideways?

 

NO SOUP FOR YOU!



Dual Leading Ignitor Direct Fire Ignition System...

You basically double up on your ignition system for the leading plugs... Two ignitors, Two coils... Then plug em straight from coil to the plug... **** the distributor.

This helps two fold...

A.) You skip the extra wire and spark gap in the distributor cap... Hence Hotter spark and more fuel burned.

B.) You're getting a "Waste spark" setup, where as when the rotor is in the exhaust phase, you get an additional spark, lighting off any additional fuel that didn't get fired on the first Leading and trailing spark.

There's also a fringe benefit where you can move the Trailing ignition over to the leading positions on the distributor cap reducing from two spark gaps to one.

Search for more info.

The black soot on your tail pipe is EXCESS fuel... If you have a catalytic converter, you're killing it and it's probably glowing after you drive.

You're also covering your spark plugs with similar carbon and soot, reducing your spark and burning even LESS fuel...

Adjust your carburetor. You're dumping too much fuel into the engine. It's wasting fuel and killing your power.

 

so, adjusting the mixture screws isnt enough . I have to rejet and change metering rods right?

 

Not sure, I'm not terribly familiar with carbs.

Perhaps talk to RX7Carl or Sterling.

 

I know that the msd is the way to go, switching form inductive to capacitive discharge.... BUT, for the time being, could I run direct without the msd for now? just run two coils off the leading ignitor? or hook a second ignitor to the leading pickup? trying to do what I can low budget for now then get the msd later. i already have a spare dizzy and an extra coil

 

2nd ignitor to the leading pickup is DLIDFIS... This is what you want...

But fix the carb first. That's gonna make your major difference.

 

from what i know of ignition systems, the real way to go is dlidfis, not msd... not to mention dlidfis is cheaper

 

Be sure to read this article before attempting any ignition mods. The info is a little old now, but it's a great way to get started. http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/dlidfis.html

 

I found that same site after I posted my question, should have done a little more research first, hehe. I went with the dlidfis, started right up, ran smooth, pulled it out of the driveway and it died, LOL. can't get it to restart... I'll figure it out tomorrow hehe. Then I need to see if I can order specific jets and metering rods. So far all I'm finding is the edelbrock tuning kit with bunches of jets and rods. Hoping I dont have to spend that much money, since I found on here which ones I need

 

ok, figured out why it died, fuel pumps not on, obviously I screwed something up in the wiring, hehe

 

Torque increased most heartily EVERYWHERE. More torque at 8k, more torque at 4k, more torque at 1k, torque hiding under the floormats, torque squeezing out of the glovebox, torque *everywhere*.

Any car will accellerate from 1500 in 5th. Just that mine would do it *hard*. Well, maybe not LS-6 Chevelle hard, but tons more than you'd expect from a 12A, or a 13B for that matter.

Intake ports optimized for flowpath and not outright timing. Exhaust ports closing much later than stock. (Exhaust ports are the main chokepoint on the engine) "Weird" intake manifold that hurt ultimate power, but hoo boy.

Torque everywhere you looked. Seemed to peak at 5500, which is where the tires'd start spinning from a roll. But that doesn't mean it didn't do anything below that point...

 

Hey PeeJay you got any port templates you'd like to sell? PM me if you can help, I'll be doing a port-job over the winter and I'm looking for something with some low-end.
Grant