TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

Seeking confirmation prior to purchase.

Clutch operated as normal, but seemed to grab when pedal closer to the floor, sometimes.
Tonight, pulled into driveway after a drive, stopped, put into first, clutch pedal to the floor and the car moved forward then stalled. Clutch pedal on floor after release. Pulled pedal back up and it worked correctly.

Replaced slave last October with engine rebuild.
Fluid in master is almost black and opaque. It was new & clear when I replaced the salve. Master appears to be the original. Dad was the first owner and no service records of replacement, and he kept everything.

I'm almost certain it needs to be replaced.

Atkins, Mazadtrix or other recommendations welcomed.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

I just bought one on a site that rhymes with flea day for 18.00 delivered. Slave cylinders can be had for approx. 16 dollars. Change the MC and the fluid and you should be good for a bit.

Good luck

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

clutch fluid is NASTY... Always.

I had a NEW master, slave, hard line, and hose (another words ALL brand spanking new) in my 84... Month or two later brown, year later black.

Just think about how many more times you depress the clutch over the brakes. 5 shifts to get a car up to 70 (well without screaming), but only one push of a break pedal to get it back down to 0.


As for replacing the master, why not? $18 bucks. And yeah, if I understand you correctly sounds like a failing master.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the insights.
The master is easier to access than the slave.
Time to replace.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Yep. Seeing as how the clutch LINE is also original, pop for the cool stainless steel clutch line Tim!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Get it from rockauto cheap. Like Stu says replace that line as well.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

Excellent suggestion.
31+ years on the original with 160K miles, not too bad.

LongDuck

I always replace both Master and Slave cylinders at the same time - inevitably, changing one results in the other becoming the weak link and then it fails soon thereafter.

Also, anytime you look down into your master cylinder reservoir and the hydraulic fluid is black, it's due to the black rubber piston seals degrading and that residue floats in suspension. It's a sure sign that the piston seals are blown. Good luck,

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

Replaced the master last night.
The fluid in the reservoir was opaque black, and seemed a bit on the thick side.
Bleed the system till it ran clear out the bleeder.

Its nice having the clutch engage in the same pedal position each time, rather than guessing.

Sh00bs

iTrader: (8)

wheres a good place to get stainless line for slave cyl?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Mazdatrix is where I get mine.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

I got mine from RB, but I didn't pay for it; it came with the car. I made a hard line from just some parts store line (12" If I remember correctly).

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

You made the soft line into a hard line? Talk about stiff pedal feel - great idea! Only issue I see is trying to remove an old slave though.