craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

hi guys,
sourced a 12a tranny rear tail housing for it's shifter housing so I can install it on a S4 TII tranny. have removed the 8 bolts holding the tail housing but am a bit confused how to actually separate it from the tranny body. there looks to be some sort of plate between tail housing and the body. do i remove the plate along w/ the tail housing or keep it on the body? i would assume it would be easier for it to come out with the tail housing based on the "flanges" but wanted to confirm. I've tried to put a putty knife in between but no luck, as well as a utility knife but can't seem to get anything in between. tia.

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

ok, the plate under the tail housing (FMS calls it the extension housing) is the bearing housing so i should not remove that. am still not sure how to remove the tail housing though as I can't even put a utility knife in between it and the bearing housing to break the seal. anyone have any suggestions?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Get a rubber mallet and tap it thru newr shifter tower and tranny mount. I just finished installing an 81-85 tailshaft shifter and speedo on an 89 tranny. Took me 1/2 hour. Im surprised that this s5 trans has no counterweight like the other S5 trans that i worked on years ago

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Do you have to remove what I call the "shifter block" where the shift handle goes to remove the tail section? I had to realign the shift rods and replace the "auto center" spring one time and seem to remember this block had the be removed first.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

You need to unbolt the shifter rod from the tower as well as those 2 things on the side where one has a steel ball and the other with a piston/sliding looking thing as well as the reverse light & 5th gear switches. unbolt the long 12mm bolts, use a rubber mallet to separate and remove the tailshaft and the shifter/remote rod housing as a unit.

For reassembly, apply a light coat of silicone on the trans housing. Slide the shifter spring/tower to the shifter rod and guide the end of the shifter rod to the gear forks. After torquing down the 12mm bolts, reinstall the 10mm bolt on the shifter rod and shifter to ensure that it doesnt bind when shifting gears. Then reinstall the rest

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Removal and install is easy with this thing loose or unbolted

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

Thanks guys...figured it out. I still had the shifter attached which would not allow the rod to move whatsoever. Once shifter was removed, a few taps with rubber mallet like Siraniko mentioned and it came loose. The shifter block does not need to be touched at this point yet as there is enough room for the rod to move in order to detach the tail housing (lifting up on the tail housing and rotating to remove).

As for the pin, that was a bit tricky as it's pretty long. When I started knocking it out, rod/shifter block was still in its regular position so it hit the side of the housing. What I ended up having to do is to move the rod/shifter block all the way towards the front of the tail housing and rotating it to give as much room in the back of the block as possible for the pin to slide out.

Now for the comparison of the shifter rods. What I have on hand is the 12a and s4 TII rods. So my research tells me the s4 TII rod needs to be modified and shortened by 3cm (which is the difference between the two shifter housings). If u want to use the 12a rod, a new hole has to be drilled 1.5cm (instead of 3cm) compared to the 12a hole. Just FYI. I'll try to take some pics tomorrow to show this.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

That's the block. I fought with mine for a couple of hours. That pin is pain in the ***.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I chopped the end of an old and worn out screwdriver and slightly grounded it down to punch out the roll pin. Im too cheap to buy a set of nail punch.

Yeah this is actually my first time to make a frankenstein S5 tranny as i usually shorten them for old school RX and RX conversion.

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

here's where i ended up putting the block in order to tap the pin out enough to slide the rod out.


here's the comparison between the 12a (on the left) and s4 tii rod (on the right). pay no attention to the 2nd hold of the 12a as it was me practicing with a hand drill but as you can see, a 12a rod can be used so instead of 3cm, it would only need to be shortened 1.5cm. as a note, the 12a rod actually used a bolt instead of a pin.


i did not like the way the practice drill came out as it was not perfectly centered so when it came time to do the real mod, i used the block as a guide as well as the original pin slightly tapped in place to give me reference.


i'm wanting to taper the opening a little so that the pin will self guide in place. will probably use a dremel and grinding bit to do so as my drill bits have the pilot points to them which won't work.

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

alright, last question before i start putting the thing back together. do i need to grease anything inside the cover plate?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

A light coat wont hurt

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

thanks, will be using a little grease on the "block".

zaridar

iTrader: (3)

Did u change the output shat too or just do this for length... When I swapped in my s5 TII trans I just swapped the 12a shift shaft housing piece and racked off the rod am inch or so... Didn't mess with the extension / tail housing

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

i used the 12a shifter housing and the modified tii shifter rod and tube. they all go back onto the tii rear tail housing.

zaridar

iTrader: (3)

Ok I'm thinking we did the same thing so never mind. I was overthinking it I think..