I'm looking for someone who's done this mod before. I know what has to be done and whatnot, but I don't have the time. I'd like to pay someone to modify the components needed to correctly install a TII tranny into a FB. I'm doing the TII swap as well, and I've now got all the parts required to at least install the engine and trans, except the tranny mod. Please include the price you would charge. I can either send my parts, or buy your parts and send you my cores back, whichever. I'm not trying to spend a fortune, but I also know that good machinists are not cheap. I just need to get this thing together.

Please post here, or PM me.

Thanks

Bryan

PS There are no machine shops around here that I'm comfortable taking these parts to, that's why I'm requesting the services of one of my fellow 7 members.

 

You don't need to goto a machine shop... You'll need a driveshaft made by a shop that *specialize's in making and balencing custom driveshafts (TurboII front end of driveshaft - FB rearend of driveshaft). There's one here in Long Island, I could get you a price if you want. I think mine cost $200 3 years ago.

Also the tails on your transmission swapped out, meaning... the tail from your 1st gen transmission into the Turbo II transmission so your shifter sits in the orginal postion.

There was just a detailed thread about the whole thing and I'm sure there are more then one if you look it up on the search button.

 

Yea, I read that whole thing. I've already got the driveshaft. What I need is someone to modify the shifter rod, and the tube that the rod goes in.

 

Any machine shop should be able to do that modification....all you need to do is give them the measurements.

 

I'd rather have someone do it whose already done it before. Plus, alot of the machine shops are pretty shady around here.

 

I thought you couldnt order your drive shaft untill you had the transmission installed to make final meaurements, which include car sitting on suspension and not on jacks. And when you say tail section is that the shifter housing?

 

Give me a day or so and I will write something up.

 

This has been writin up already with clear pictures and measurments. The chronicles of a TII swap in the FAQ page.

 

All you need is a hacksaw (to cut off the approx 10mm off the rod)
and a drill press with a vice to drill a new hole (approx 10mm closer)

 

Yea I know what you mean--I had my brother-in-law's machine shop do the work and he's like 300 miles away. It's amazing how many crappy machine shops are out there.

I don't know that he will do it for you but I could ask. Normally the shop only does petro-chem stuff. Let me know if you're really hard up and I'll ask him.

Scott

 

Just for clarification the distance is 31-32mm

 

Probably right - I remember it wasn't much.

 

Yea,I remember it was around an inch,maybe a little more.I never actually measured it,I just laid the 1st gen annd 2nd gen parts next to each other and marked/cut.

BTW,you dont even need a drill press or any special tools.I used a hack saw and a hand drill.The selector shaft was surprisingly soft,I expected hardened steel,but it drilled like butter.
The 1st gen rubber mount works fine,you just have to work it a bit with a small 4" angle grinder to clear/mount to the TII box.
A couple 1 to 1.25 inch spacers between the 1st gen crossmember and the body to provide tunnel clearance....and your good to go.

For the driveline.....hold off until you are final mounted.Theres no reason jumping the gun and getting the length wrong.Itll cost you to recut and balance it and you could do catastrophic damage to the car and yourself if you run with the driveline too short or too long.
And if your planning a TII engine swap,dont rely on the stock size FB u-joint in the rear.Have the whole driveline be one size, and greasable/replaceable.Use a lightly modified TII rearend yoke if you need to,in order to have a big driveline.I went that route,its only a few bucks to have the yoke machined,and youll never have to worry about driveline integrity.....

 

Hey Steve what kind exhaust you running?

 

3" stainless RB downpipe,3" Bonez cat,3" stainless mandrel pipe to the RB muffler.

I purposefully had the new system made to go straight down the side of the car,but remain under the heatsheilding.That way I can pull the tranny without the exhaust system coming off....plus I was able to cut away about 50% of the heatshield mess,saving weight and making my driveline servicable "in-car".

 

Steve, What is the exact thickness of spacers that is needed between the crossmember and the body. I just want to make sure that my pinion angles are the same. If you have the thicknes it would make the fitment a little easier.

I plan on measuring the angles anyway.

 

The driveshaft I have was in a car already with the same motor/trans combo. The guy blew it up, and is going back to the 12A. Don't ask me why, that's just what he wants to do.

 

Getting the driveline angle perfect will also depend on how low your car sits.Mine is lowered 1.5".

My crossmember spacers are about 1.25" long....roughly.
Its been almost 5 years so I cant remember.
Before I machined a permanant set out of aluminum,I just used a couple tool sockets.1/2" drive, and about 1.25" long.Just set them on the crossmember,slide some bolts through them and attach to the underside of the car.It might seem ghetto,but they worked perfectly and are tool steel,plenty strong to hold up a tranny.

 

huh, interesting idea. Thanks for the information.

 

nice info..