RotaryRevn

Just two quick questions. On this first pic, you can see that the spring lying on the cardboard is broken. This is the spring that came out of the fb shifter housing. Will the t2 shifter housing spring be the same and work in the fb shifter housing?? I believe my t2 spring should be intact. If they are not the same, is this spring sold seperately at Mazda? Dont mind the finger, I was pointing at something else












Now on this next pic, what all is supposed to be in this hole? In the factory workshop manual it says to remove the cover, spring, and select lock spindle. I removed the cover, a spring came out and nothing else. Is this piece that my pencil is pointing to the "select lock spindle"? Also, my friend thought there should be a bearing in this hole which there wasn't. Is there supposed to be a bearing in this hole? If I am missing something in this hole can it be replaced with the parts off of the t2 tranny?

1984se

I see ur working hard John. Good luck.

Call me if you ever need a hand.

-Ryan

RotaryRevn

Well, I'm working on it, I don't know about working hard yet.......lol SOOO much to do, SOOO little time!!!! I'll let you know if I need help, thanks for the offer.

1984se

Lol.

Np

Rex4Life

As far as the broken spring, yes, I think you can use the T2 spring. That spring is what makes the shifter pop back into neutral when deflected left or right.

About the missing parts in the hole, my brain is failing me early this morning and I can't remember.

HTH,

Scott

Gregs

why dont u just cut out like 2 inches in the shifter hole and not modift the shifter?

CarlRx7

ghetto!!

RotaryRevn

Believe me, I thought about it, Still kinda thinking about it because I haven't dissasembled the T2 tranny yet. I just don't want to get in my car and notice that the shifter is in a different location. Also I believe it will hit that stock silver plastic shifter surround so I wouldn't be able to use it.

RotaryRevn

Well, I started on the T2 tranny today. Hit a slight roadblock. I can't seem to get this pin out of the shifter rod. As you know on the fb it is a bolt. On the T2 it's a pressed in pin. I believe I'm supposed to use a punch and knock it out the back? Is this right? I just want some assurance before I start hammering away at it. I did try to hit it a few times with a punch on one side of the pin but it didn't move. I may have to buy a bigger punch that covers the entire pin.

I just need to know how to get it out? Knock it through or what?

thanks, and here's a pic of what I'm talking about

Gregs

robert@rotaryshack told me the cutting method and he also showed me some pics of hte tII tranny in a first gen with the hole cut, it looks just fine, yeah it sits back an inch or so, but it doesnt look bad at all. i could hardly tell....

RotaryRevn

about the missing parts in the hole? I think it's fine. Upon dissasembing the t2 tranny, it was exactly the same, just the spring in there and that other piece that the pencil is pointing to on the earlier picture. The t2 spring was also broken a little. Not nearly as bad as the fb spring. Dealer must sell this spring because it seems to be common for them to break.

RotaryRevn

Are you able to use that stock shifter surround piece if you cut it? You know, that silver plastic that matches the stereo surround?

Lotus00

You do need to use a punch and hammer to get that pin out. When I was tearing apart my miata tranny it was full of those things, I just used a bolt the same diameter as the pin.

Gregs

Yes. and the stock boot also

Rex4Life

I couldn't get the pin out either--ended up just drilling it out.

BTW--The reason I didn't cut up the tunnel is cause I wanted it to look stock--works great. Don't do a hack job--do it right.

steve84GS TII

That roll pin will punch out,try not to drill/destroy it as youll need it after you cut and redrill the TII shaft.After you dissasemble the shaft,youll cut 1" off the end,then you drill a new hole in the TII selector shaft,1" furthur in from the original.The selector shaft seems like it would be hard as hell,but it drilled quite easy. Just be sure you get the hole centered and not too big.Use the big shifter block as a drill guide so you dont stray.
Then,cut the outer sheetmetal tube down 1",slip a rubber hose over it,clamp,and reassemble the whole thing.It really is easy and the placement of the shifter will be perfect.
Heres mine.....dead center.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01491.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01505.jpg

The cap thing under the shifter box is the spring/ball detent that helps hold the shifter in position.Kinda works like the wire spring on the shaft,except in the other direction.BTW,that shaft spring is almost always broken after a few years.Every tranny Ive pulled apart had a broken one.

RotaryRevn

Thanks for all the help guys, It's starting to sound a little easier now. I'll keep everyone updated as I progress this long road to forced induction!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The pin will drive out fairly easily. You drive it into the housing, but you have to make sure the is enough room for it to come all the way out. If you don't it will jamb into the housing on the other side and then nothing moves. I know this one from experience.

Most of the springs I've seen are broken. It's not a big deal.

RotaryRevn

Ok, so should I turn the block or shift into a certain gear before trying to punch it out so I don't jam it into that back wall?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Yes, but I can't remember what position it needs to be in and I just did one last week. the FSM says to put the tranny in 1st gear before disassembly, but I don't remember if the roll pin was why. I'll go look.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Ok, if you have the tail housing off the tranny, the turn the 'change rod end' (shifter cup) so the roll pin is at the bottom edge of the opening and towards thefront of it. That should give you enough room to drive the pin ut.

Rex4Life

One more thing. BEFORE you put the tranny in the car, make sure you shift it into all gears and make sure you can put it in neutral and that the input shaft will spin freely. So yea you may need to put the shifter on to test it out.

Look like you're getting pretty close.

Scott

RotaryRevn

Ok, got the roll pin out this morning.....YEAH!!! It really wasn't hard once I had the proper punch. I did jam it into the back housing (very scary moment) I was able to get it unjammed by removing that other piece that sticks into the side of the housing that my pencil is pointing at in the first pics a bearing popped out of there!, then lifting the tailshaft housing up a little, and continue knocking it back. I guess that's what my friend was talking about with the bearing. anyhow, I will have a few more questions about which block (the piece that the shifter lever ball goes into) to use. I can use the one from the t2 right? I am planning to use the roll pin during re-assembly as I believe it will be easier for the machinest to just drill a hole rather than drill, tap and drill again if using the bolt from the fb. Then my other question would be about that metal pin like thing that comes out of the wall in the shifter box. As Rex4life mentioned in his monster write up of his t2 conversion, the one in the t2 box has a taper or is cut at an angle at the end. The one in the fb box is straight. The blocks (the piece that the shifter lever ball goes into) appear a little different as well between the fb and t2. For this reason, I believe that if I use the block that is from the t2, I would need to use the tapered or angled pin correct? That is if I can use the block from the t2 box in the fb box. You guys confused yet? I know I am.......lol I'll try to post pics when I get a little more time.

thanks
John