ive just replaced the wheel bearings in my car and have put the rotor back on. since then i have become paranoid and want to tighten that bolt to the exact position with a gauge. how do the spring gauges work? and how much?

 

From what I understand, you hook it to a lugnut and tighten the wheel bearing until you reach a certain amount of resistance while turning the rotor. Hard to explain. The bearings are adjusted according to the resistance while trying to rotate it, rather than by torque on the nut like anyone else would. They probably have good instructions in the service manual, and I'm pretty sure that there is a copy to be found in the FAQ section so check that out.

I don't know how it is in the land of Aussies, but around here you can usually borrow a tool like this from a parts store so you don't have to buy it. Good luck...

 

When I read up on installing new bearings, the method was said to be:

Tighten until the hub binds and will not move freely, then loosen the nut one sixth of a turn.

Grab the rotor and move it in all directions..If there is any play snug up the nut a small bit.

Spin the rotor a few times to make sure everything is seated nicely before putting any weight on the spindle.

And thats it!!!!

 

 

The manual says tighten the nut to 18-20 ft/lbs. Spin the hub a few times then loosen the nut.

Hook a spring scale to a hub bolt and tighten until a drag reading of 0.99 to 1.5 lb is obtained. Pull squarely on the bolt, like if the bolts are aligned like this + then pull straight ->.

^^What Gen1onr said works too and is much easier.

Now for the OP's question, spring scales measure weight by hanging weight from them, or in this case you're pulling to get the measurement. You won't find many in auto parts stores, but any fishing supply store will have them.

 

i think that tighten it up till it binds then back 1/6th thing is like vaigish. its not like the rotor is not binded, then binded. i dunno, im probably being too pendantic. want to do it right tho. anyone else noticed all the loose crap inside the core of disk rotors (new ones) ? hope mine good enough.

 

hey guys i bought one of the spring thingos ($20) from finishing shop, thanks for that tip btw) , i was about 1 kg over tightened, dunno whether that equates to anything but least its good now. so then i went to pack the casings into the other rotor and looks like the outer bearing hub has been machined to much and the casing can be pushed in all the way by hand. f#ck, now i have to wait like 5 days to swap it. has anyone had this happen to them before??

 

Anyone ! ? !

 

I just do it by hand.

 

How old are those bearings? Sounds like it's just bad.

 

Did mine 3 weeks ago this same way, works great, no slop/play or bearing bind.

 

j tso - the bearings are brand new, in all 3 other rotors you have to JAM them in, im going back to replace it cos i dont want the casings spinning in the rotor