thirdtimesthecharm

How can I get the tie rod adjusting sleeve out of the outer tie rod... the sleeve will only come out of the inner.

Is heating the tie rod a bad idea? I am replacing it anyway, i just dont want to harm the adjuster as ill be reusing that.

85 FB

Use PB Blaster and/or SeaFoam Deep Creep and bang the adjusting sleeve. Apply some heat if you need to; to expand the metal some.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i've heated each end with luck every time. the adjusting sleeve is threaded on both ends. bear in mind that one end of the sleeve is reverse threaded. take note of that before you go busting knuckles.

thirdtimesthecharm

Yea i used a *****-load of PB Blaster... time for heat. Im actually in the garage right now so well see how that goes...

Im changing some fluids right now as well.... anyone know the capacity of the coolant system? What do I use to open the drain plug on the differential... its some sort of giant square hex key...new to me.

I know i need to stop bumping my own threads like this but id hate to start twenty new ones in an hour.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

for the diff, use just your 3/8 wratchet with no socket on the end. use an extension if you need to. the fill plug is removed and reinstalled the exact same way. sometimes the plugs are pretty tight and a cheater pipe helps a ton. as far as the fluid capacity on the cooling system is concerned, you're looking at 10 gallons.

thirdtimesthecharm

Oh ok sounds simple enough.

Sorry to waste your time, I found the cooling capacity in the FSM...whaddya know?!

You meant Quarts not gallons i think.

Thanks.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

yeah, i did mean quarts, lol. oh well though. at least you found what you were looking for. how did that tie rod job go?

Kentetsu

Replacement adjusters (and tierod ends) can be found dirt cheap at www.rockauto.com

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Word of advice, always remove the fill plug before draining the diff. I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the fill plug from a members car that someone else buggered up. If you drain it and can't remove the fill plug, well, have funn fillig it back up.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

great piece of advice!!! how was it messed up? did someone round out the square opening?

thirdtimesthecharm

Yea gotta bring this one back to life....

Tie rod job went well, until i realized the right inner needs replacement. Anyone advise against "shocking" that one out by banging on the center link?

Yea Trochoid i saw that advice about the filler plug in a thread a few weeks ago...good precautionary measure.

Kentetsu

I picked up a small sized pitman arm tool for under ten bucks at autozone. I use this for the tie rod ends on the 7, because it is just the right size. Also, it doesn't mess up the boots like a pickle fork does.

85rotarypower

I've actually had pretty good luck with a pickle fork. If used correctly, it shouldn't wreck the boots. But if it does, its most likely time to replace that ball joint or tie rod end anyway.

thirdtimesthecharm

Im putting in all new tie rods rather than new bushings so a big-ole hammer did just fine for me.... now for an alignment.

a bit of brake fluid on the outer tie rod bushings...uh oh?

85 FB

Get under your car again with a flashlight and look for dampness around the end points of your brake hoses. If your hoses are shot, I strongly recommend getting SS lines. I have them, and they're well worth it.

thirdtimesthecharm

Oh sorry let me clarify, I dripped fluid on em myself when changing to reman. calipers and SS lines.