warwickben

iTrader: (1)

hey guys i just have a simple question.
i hope it hasn't been asked to many times. iam replacing all the bushings on my car, and would like to know how to setup my tie rods. like how do i adjust them correctly.
where would that info be.

edit i forgot i had the fsm, its not the tie rods iam asking about.
its the tension rod. how do i adjust it back to specs. i cant find that listed in the fsm.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

my fsm is missing parts of the pages about setting up the tension rod's. all so i ordered my bushing kit from respeed. the bushing don't look the same so i dont know if i can use the specs listed in the fsm

Kentetsu

Just tighten them down far enough to get the cotter pin back through. Then, take it to a shop for an alignement...

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

i just wanted it to be safe to get it to a hop to get a alignment and corner weighted .

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i'm not sure how much the tension rods affect the alignment, as their purpose is to not let the front suspension pull under the car when braking. the tie rod ends are a big part of your car's alignment.

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

It is where you adjust your caster stock. It does have a huge effect on the alignment. Get it done at a reputable shop. Sorry not hating on your reply just trying to make sure people understand the actual purpose. It of course depends on how you bolt up the stock strut tower blocks. They have more or less caster and camber dependign on how you bolt them up. If you have aftermarket plates then your tension rod is the only caster adjustment left unless of course you have camber/caster plates then you have two caster adjustments like you would when you had your stock upper mounts.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the caster adjustment at the tension rods would have to be very minimal, as there is not much one can do with the tightness of the nuts that clamp the bushings and there is nothing once can do at the control arm.

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

in the fsm they tell you how to set it up. i had to down load it because mine is missing bits.
it says have x amount sticking out the front and tourq the back bolt to x spec. ill go with that and drive i to my uncles. he own LFG, in mass. if he can do alinement's and corner balance on his race car and customers cars i think ill be safe there. now i just need to find a place to press my ball joints out and press the new ones in.

Fatman513

I just saw this link on a different thread for the ball joints: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

Hopefully it'll help.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Search for the win...
there you go you lazy SOB...

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

Ok you're still wrong. I don't see what you don't understand. Not trying to pick a fight here trying to put useful information on the board and get rid of information like your's that is only half the story and incorrect.

Go look at your factory tension rod. Do you see how the rear most nut has about 2-2 1/2 inches of thread behind it? That's because the caster is adjustable at this place. If you move the real nut closer down the tension rod then tighten the front nut you've changed your caster adjustment. I hope you can see what I'm saying because it's a basic of a lot of cars and it's a fact. You're not going to gain ten degrees here or anything but you will move the lower control arm closer to the front of the car while the top of the strut is still attached to the mount hence changing the caster.

All that being said. I still love you and am not mad at you or wanting to argue any further really. I'm right your wrong. Actually I'm not right I'm just telling you how it works. Not trying to get personal.