well your statics numbers are right

 

i don't know where it is, or what it is, but somewhere there is a mathmatical equation for this... i think its shadetree mechanics at its best.

 

Well if I could pulla 350 ft lbs torque wrench out you know where and apply it I would. But since im a cheap lazy bumb. I know the craftsman sockets really isn't cheap but that where the lazy came in. Just tired of looking for it.

Foot x pound = foot pound I think thats the equation simplifed and shady. Just wish I had a tree:p

 

Yeah you got it right. I did a similar thing. My girlfriend 120lb did chinups on a three foot pipe slid over the breaker bar. 360 foot-pounds.

When that motor blew an oil seal a few months later it was easy to get the flywheel nut off, with the same 3' pipe. but I did put a dab of anti-sieze on there during assembly. and cleaned up the threads. didn't have time to rust and heat seize; that takes a few years to make it a bear to come off. plus it's common for engine builders to put some loctite on there too.

 

If you are going to tackle the engine rebuild you will need to break down and buy a torque wrench anyway - there is a lot more than the flywheel nut that you have to worry about in terms of getting the torque right. But you don't need to buy an exotic one to do the flywheel nut. The minimum torgue for that nut is 280 ft/lbs, so bring it up to 250 ft/lb with your standard torgue wrench, then give it another 1/16 or so more rotation with a basic wrench and breaker bar. Since at 250 ft/lb you are only 30 ft/lb below the minimum, this will put you safely in the 280 ft/lb to 340 ft/lb range specified in the manual. Another option, buit one that I don't feel comfortable with, is to mark the nut relative to the lywheel before you remove it, and make sure you bring it back so that the marks line up when tightening it back up.

 

If you are going to tackle the engine rebuild you will need to break down and buy a torque wrench anyway - there is a lot more than the flywheel nut that you have to worry about in terms of getting the torque right. But you don't need to buy an exotic one to do the flywheel nut. The minimum torgue for that nut is 280 ft/lbs, so bring it up to 250 ft/lb with your standard torgue wrench, then give it another 1/16 or so more rotation with a basic wrench and breaker bar. Since at 250 ft/lb you are only 30 ft/lb below the minimum, this will put you safely in the 280 ft/lb to 340 ft/lb range specified in the manual. Another option, but one that I don't feel comfortable with for some reason, is to make a mark across the nut and the flywheel before you remove it, and make sure that the marks line up when tightening it back up (just not sure if there is a direct link between position of the nut and actual torque, given that threads will stretch a bit during removal and replacement, but I have heard of others doing this with no problem).

 

(sorry about the double post above)