These cars stink!
TT, you still should be able to clean up the exhaust (ie emmissions) even with the race pipe. Do some of the carb-leaning adjustments suggested in this thread, you might be surprised. That yellow spot over the tail pipes might even go away.
Ray
Ray
Junior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Boulder, Co
First off if you tearing up in the garage at idle. Warm up the car. Take your idle mixture screw and crank it all the clockwise slowly until the car starts to stumble/miss a bit . Then crank it counter clockwise 1/4 turn. This should help with the overly rich idle.
Next, I don't think you have to settle for "stinky" exhaust.
The main reason rotarys get such a bad rap is because people tear off all the rats nest and emissions equipment and expect the carb to some how know & adapt to the new setup. This isn't fuel injection people there are no o2 sensors that tell a computer to adjust fuel mixtures.
Most of the smell can be eliminated by adjusting the air bleeds and jet sizes in the carb. to bring the A/F ratio back to stoich.
I'm not going to pretend I know how to do this on a nikki. But I'm sure it's similar to a holley which I do know about.
You need a WB02 sensor first off. Then you need the means to lean out your cruise and idle mixtures. I.E. jets and air bleeds. Any good performance shop should be able to help you out. I'm sure the sterling carb guys could send you a bolt on carb that is in the ball park and would just need some fine tuning.
Doing this will not only help with the smell but it will make more power and get better gas mileage if done correctly.
Good luck...
Next, I don't think you have to settle for "stinky" exhaust.
The main reason rotarys get such a bad rap is because people tear off all the rats nest and emissions equipment and expect the carb to some how know & adapt to the new setup. This isn't fuel injection people there are no o2 sensors that tell a computer to adjust fuel mixtures.
Most of the smell can be eliminated by adjusting the air bleeds and jet sizes in the carb. to bring the A/F ratio back to stoich.
I'm not going to pretend I know how to do this on a nikki. But I'm sure it's similar to a holley which I do know about.
You need a WB02 sensor first off. Then you need the means to lean out your cruise and idle mixtures. I.E. jets and air bleeds. Any good performance shop should be able to help you out. I'm sure the sterling carb guys could send you a bolt on carb that is in the ball park and would just need some fine tuning.
Doing this will not only help with the smell but it will make more power and get better gas mileage if done correctly.
Good luck...
A point not generally known is that fuel flowing through the jets erodes them and enlarges them. If running a carb with over 50,00 miles and removed emission controls, it is safe to replace the primaries with 2 sizes smaller than stock, then play with the air bleeds.
Have driven rotaries for around 400,000 miles with no pollution controls and was able to pass Colo. tailpipe emissions standards with proper tuning. Tailpipe color ran light grey, not black. I always run 10% ethanol unleaded and an alcohol/water bubbler into th manifold.
Smell can also come from gas brand and the additive used by the refinery or the oil brand. Get it tuned right.
Doc-Watt
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Mine has a light smell, but I know for a fact that it's because the carb I have on there right now isn't running anywhere near the ideal air/fuel mix.
If you're getting burning eyes and a smell of pure gas, you need to do a tune up (plugs, plugwires, air filter, fuel filter), and get tweaking on that carb of yours.
Jon
If you're getting burning eyes and a smell of pure gas, you need to do a tune up (plugs, plugwires, air filter, fuel filter), and get tweaking on that carb of yours.
Jon
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 244
Likes: 1
From: baltimore maryland
I ran across a thead in the past two days in this sectiom ( 1st Generation Specific (1979-85) ) about sythectic oil. the general comment was some do not burn up well in the combustion chamber and cause eyes to water
I don't see a reason to use synthetic in a rotary. If you have to change it every 3k miles anyway, might as well go with the cheap stuff. Plus there are no issues with whether it will burn or not.
Synthetic oil = no thanks
ATF = no thanks
I guess my car does in fact have a light smell. But like Jon's it's only because the mixture is not set perfectly and I haven't performed the ignition upgrade. If it's anything like the major improvement you can get from the older thermal reactor carbs that were jetted rich from the factory, this much leaner running Nikki should improve a bit.
Synthetic oil = no thanks
ATF = no thanks
I guess my car does in fact have a light smell. But like Jon's it's only because the mixture is not set perfectly and I haven't performed the ignition upgrade. If it's anything like the major improvement you can get from the older thermal reactor carbs that were jetted rich from the factory, this much leaner running Nikki should improve a bit.
Wassup!!
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 1
From: Longmont Co.
Having run and tuned rotaries from 73 till 91, I agree with vxturboxv 100%.
A point not generally known is that fuel flowing through the jets erodes them and enlarges them. If running a carb with over 50,00 miles and removed emission controls, it is safe to replace the primaries with 2 sizes smaller than stock, then play with the air bleeds.
Have driven rotaries for around 400,000 miles with no pollution controls and was able to pass Colo. tailpipe emissions standards with proper tuning. Tailpipe color ran light grey, not black. I always run 10% ethanol unleaded and an alcohol/water bubbler into th manifold.
Smell can also come from gas brand and the additive used by the refinery or the oil brand. Get it tuned right.
Doc-Watt
A point not generally known is that fuel flowing through the jets erodes them and enlarges them. If running a carb with over 50,00 miles and removed emission controls, it is safe to replace the primaries with 2 sizes smaller than stock, then play with the air bleeds.
Have driven rotaries for around 400,000 miles with no pollution controls and was able to pass Colo. tailpipe emissions standards with proper tuning. Tailpipe color ran light grey, not black. I always run 10% ethanol unleaded and an alcohol/water bubbler into th manifold.
Smell can also come from gas brand and the additive used by the refinery or the oil brand. Get it tuned right.
Doc-Watt
To me, the smell of a rotary is one of the best ones in the world. My stock '7 still has the polution gear and unfortunately *doesn't* smell that much!
Even better is the smell of a rotary at the track, with racing fuel, cooked brakes and tyres
Even better is the smell of a rotary at the track, with racing fuel, cooked brakes and tyres
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 8
From: SF Bay Area, California
kinda unrelated to the smell of fuel but i believe my exhaust stinks in a different way. kinda smells like a rotten egg or something foul... am i running too rich? i have all emissions control on runnning with a bonez cat system. any help is appreciated.
smogs coming up.. yikes.. so ill definitely run seafoam, oil change + filter, and new plugs and drive it for a while until its super hot.
smogs coming up.. yikes.. so ill definitely run seafoam, oil change + filter, and new plugs and drive it for a while until its super hot.
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