I swapped out my beehive for a FMOC and i cant seem to figure out why i cant get my oil pressure gauge on the dash to work? Was there a plug and harness on the beehive or did i disconnect a wire somewhere?

 

There was nothing on the beehive. It's possible that you knocked the wire off of the sending unit.

 

That sucks, got a pic of the correct setup and wiring, i have the wiring diagram, but, is it just me or is that some hard reading stuff?

 

sending unit is located here.

 

not sure what thats a pic of. looks like the drain plug to me. the oil pressure sender is located below the beehive and is threaded into the rear iron.

this is a pic of the engine out of my 88 10th Anniversary. the location of the ops is the same as are the looks of it. you'll see it directly below where the oil filter threads on.

 

So, something plugs right into that thing under the filter pedestal?

 

its one with a wire blade connector. i believe its yellow with a red stripe. i'll see if i can dig up a pic for you...

 

ok, here's a pic from an 84 GSL-SE that i had. you can see the wire withthe blade connector going to the sender under teh oil filter. in this case its orange with blue stripe. should be the same for other years and such. i must have been thinking YR for the coolant temp sender. here's the pic:

 

 

I have a 84 gsl with the beehive and my oil pressure gauge has never worked. The wire is not connected to any thing I dont see the sender. did some year blocks not a port. i look where it is shown in the pics and i don't even see a pluged hole.

 

its not like a regular male and female connection...its more of a slide connection. Think like tongue and groove flooring...lol

 

All 12A's have the oil pressure hole and sending unit in the location others have shown. I say look again, it's easy to miss and very easy to knock the wire off. The wire also gets brittle and breaks because there is extra heat in that area.

 

am i close. i must be looking in the wrong spot. where from there is it

 

You sir, have a weird engine. Is that a rebuild/modded engine or is it original?

 

That's not a weird engine. That is an R5 rear plate. Quite common around here.

 

I learned something. If the R5 iron is what you have, then the best bet would be to get a oil pedistal sandwich platte to goes betten the iron and beehive. I went fromt mount oil cooler so I have a RESpeed oil pedistal for the oil pressure and oil temp.

 

If you keep the beehive if you have to, get the Racing Beat Type II oil pressure and temp adaptor. It's the blue anodized aluminum thing that costs 68 bucks. It fits between the filter and the beehive. I've done two beehive setups and they work great. Just be careful with the o-ring (I've crushed one and almost crushed the new one *gulp*). Tighten the plated steel fitting carefully to 30 foot pounds, as the instructions say, and you'll never have a problem with leaks. The o-ring is $2 at Mazdatrix.

One note about R5 engines is possible low oil pressure at idle due to "competition" shafts which have full flow oilers instead of checkballs and springs. It seems all nitrided modern J-spec R5 engines had these, 12A and 13B. You have peace of mind knowing the rotors are cool enough for any type of driving from boosted apps to high reving NA. Just keep an eye on oil pressure at idle. The highest I've seen is 20 and the lowest around 10 at around 900rpm. It depends on stat bearing wear/mileage.

I think Mazda knew they'd have low pressure at idle and made a corporate choice to delete oil pressure gauges from cars that had competition shafts.

 

wow i just learned alot. I had no idea there were so different types. did come this way factory? i have very little info on the car.

 

You might have a 79-80 SA RX-7 engine. Or it could be a J-spec R5 12A. They both had R5 plates. The flat quick disconnect water temp sender says J-spec. US cars had a bullet connecter.

One way to be sure is to yank the exhaust manifold or header. If you see a set of diagonal air bleeds which fed a thermal reactor, you've got an SA engine. If they're missing, but you see a weird slanty tube inside the port and no sleeve except a thick ring at the outer edge, you've got R5. I have a picture somewhere...

 

Ok here's a set of R5 housings and Y plates for reference.

Notice the weird emissions tubes inside the ports. The slanted holes are actually blocked by an aluminum screw/plug, and are located toward the end plates compare to an SA which are closer to the intermediate plate (easy way to tell which housing was front and rear if you know which housings you have).

This is the rear housing of an R5.

 

Thank you very much i will check today.