vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Hey All,

So I get down to work on the Rx7 today to get some stuff out of the way before I install a new (to me) carb tomorrow. I fill the rad with coolant flush stuff, and hook a new battery up, cap off some vacuum lines, and get in. I took out the spark plugs and wanted to test to see if the starter motor still turned and the fuel pump still pumped.

So I hook up a container to catch the gas falling where the carb would be, get in, turn the key and... nothing. Not a click.

I tried all the internal electrical, the clock, dummy lights, radio, fans all work. The lights pop up, the brights work and it doesn't dim when I turn the key, so I figure it's gotta be some wiring problem. With one of those 12V lightbulb circuit-tester thingies and a friend I test all the fusibles, they're all good. So I take out the starter, and test that there is power going to it. At first there wasn't, fixed that.... I hooked a pair of jumper cables to the battery and touched them to the terminals of the starter... it jumped, kinda turned, but not really.. I try again.. same effect... (switch pos/neg to see if it's that, nothing, switch back) and try a third time.. This time instead of turning the gear, it kinda just pushes it forward...

So I hook it back to the car, test the circuit again, turn the key, and now all I get is a loud "click" from the starter, like it's pushing the gear forward instead of turning again.. At least now it's getting power. Still no action from the fuel pump....

So did I just blow my starter like a complete n00b? or what else could this possibly be? On the starter solonoid (I believe that's what the smaller cylinder mounted on top is called) there are two studs, with bolts on them, and a small clip. The clip I clipped the white electrical connector that was higher up, and the other wire I wired to one of the two bolts (the outer one, more towards the driver's side... left).

I just bought this thing last summer, but I got it used from a part yard.. It was working then, but not now... If it's blown, do any Canadians know where I can get a rebuild?

Sorry for the Novel, I always tend to do that, seems to happen when your typing goes almost as fast as you think

Jon

Pele

iTrader: (28)

You think that's a novel, search for the word "Start" with my name as the creator, and in the first gen section.

You're lookin for "The end all for no start threads."

In short, yes the starter is gone. You can get a rebuild at most auto parts stores. Not sure if you have a chain called "PepBoys", Advance Auto Parts", or "CarQuest" Those are the ones I trust the most here...

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Pele,

Actually, not only have I already read the thread you referred to, but I archived a copy, voted it 5 star and I believe even posted a reply to the effect of "admins, if this isn't in the archive yet, put it there!"



How much does a starter rebuild usually cost? and is it possible I connected the wire to the wrong stud, or does it matter? (as I said, there are two, I connected to the left one.... Oh, and no PepBoys, Advance or CarQuest that I know of in this area. Ottawa boys, please correct me if I'm wrong!
Jon

Pele

iTrader: (28)

There's only two studs, One has a braided or bare wire going into the starter body, the other should have the positive battery cable going to it... I doubt you messed it up... Double check the small wire to the tab... I'll refer you to the pic in the starter post...



Perhpas I have the studs reversed, but the labeling is correct... Use the one OPPOSITE the one with the bare/braided wire.

If everything is hooked up right, the battery is good, then using a screwdriver, or a piece of wire, connect between the positive battery wire and the thin tab, the starter should crank... Click means bad starter. No click means bad solenoid.

Rebuild maybe costs US$50 plus a core fee which you get back when you bring the old starter back.

REVHED

This isn't the correct way to test the starter and solenoid. If you read Pele's diagram you'll see that both the terminals on the solenoid are actually part of the positive current path for the starter. The solenoid is simply a switch. The ground is directly through the body.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys, I'm going out to check this right now.... Perhaps I *did* connect the "red" wire to the stud with the braided wire... if not.. I'm screwed and need a new rebuild, but there's always hope for yesterday's mistakes!

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Update:

Well, I got a new starter from one of the guys at the meet (HUGE thanks to Rxcetera (Will) for that one) and threw it on.. hmm... it was still giving the same problem... so I finally found out what it was and smacked myself rightly for it.

what I was mistaking for the "big positive" was actually what I believe is a big wire that goes to the fuel pump! The big positive I had taken off and pushed way up and out of my way last year when I was replacing the *actually blown* original starter. I reached up seeing a rubber boot, pulled it down, connected it to the new starter from Will and it worked no prob.

Tested yesterday's "burnt" starter the PROPER method using the same jumper cables and the diagram from above this time, and it worked like a charm, so I guess I didn't blow it. But it's always good to have a spare.

Oh well... Easy come easy go. What buggers me the most is that because of the ignition "small" positive, it was enough to get the starter to make nice *loud* clickity sounds, which lead me to believe it was shot.

Jon