Jere Urso

I was checking the purge valve by feeling suction at 2000rpms. I can't really tell if there is suction but I think they're might be, what are the symptoms of a bad purge valve. Is there suppose to be large suction or small suction?

Jere Urso

Could there be a problem before the purge valve causing it not to function properly?
I don't want to replace it for $50 and have it not work again.
I'll be checking foxed.ca and some manuals also.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yeah i'd look in the manual.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Apply vacuum at the top hose and you should then be able to suck or blow through the other two hoses on the bottom. No vacuum at top hose = no suction at bottom hoses. If the top hose wont hold vacuum PCV is bad and basically a vacuum leak.

Jere Urso

The reason I checked my valve was because there was a build up of of oil/water/fuel debri in the filler neck around the piping of where the hose for the purge valve goes too. It looked like mucus and I cleaned it out of the filler neck. I'm going to check it with vacuum Wednesday but would that be a symptom from the valve not functioning correctly?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Or failing coolant seals.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Or get a PCV valve from the auto parts store because they were designed to work in situations like this.

Hook it to the middle nipple on your carb spacer and the other end to your oil filler neck. You might need to adapt from 5/16" to 3/16"

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the oiling system and water system are so separated that it is pretty much impossible for water to leak into the oil.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Not if its coming into combustion and seeping past worn oil control rings. Same happens with gas when you flood or run premix.

Jere Urso

My coolant level has barely went down since I flushed it a few months ago. But it could be from flooding recently.

wankel=awesome

That would be a stretch imo, unless the engine wasnt being run for long periods or something. Just running the engine now and then would flush the coolant out and not let it soak past the oil control rings. The motor would have to fill with coolant and then slowly drain into the oil pan regularly to happen...

What you describe is "Lung butter" and is common if the factory emissions system isnt working properly.

Ditch the rats nest if you already havent, and run a PCV valve. Any real source of vacuum seems to work for the PCV valve. Not just the middle nipple on the spacer. I run mine from an open 5/16 port on my SA intake mani.

HOWEVER, although adding the PCV valve to my setup actually causes my engine to blow wipsy gray smoke out of the exhaust on decel. There is also a coating of black suit on the inside of the filler neck now. No lung butter at all, but I cant help thinking the amount of vacuum on the engine on decel is allowing oil to suck past the oil control rings. Seems to be related in my mind at least. Its also possible that I have my lines run backwards on my filler neck to the PCV valve. Bottom line is it didnt do the smokey thing until I installed the PCV valve.

Good luck with yours lol!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

basically the heat of the oil boils the water out of the air, and mix a little steam with a little oil vapor, and you get "lung butter". its common if the emissions system is working, its common if the oil isn't new, and its most common if the oil isn't up to temp enough to burn all the water off.

its not even a problem, just a thing that happens.

Jere Urso

Thanks for the info!

wankel=awesome

Well, I have cars that dont do it at all, and some that do. My 84 SE never has any lung butter, anytime I check.

My 85 never did until I installed an aftermarket carb on it. Stopped doing it on the installation of the PCV valve, but did also start smoking a bit.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

My RX8 has the common bad dip stick butter. The filler is way too high on a RENESIS to have lung butter there.

Jere Urso

I applied vacuum to the top part of the valve and it wouldn't let me blow or suck through the hoses on the bottom. Also it wouldn't hold vacuum by itself. As soon as I applied it, it escaped. Should I go ahead and order the part?

Jere Urso

I'm pretty sure I tested it right, but I'm not 100% sure if I should replace it. You guys think I should?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

What's the harm in replacing it? At least then you can rule it out.

Jere Urso

I suppose, as soon as i can get the checkout to work on Mazdatrix I'll order it lol

NCross

iTrader: (18)

You have to use internet explorer.

Jere Urso

Still haven't order it yet but I want to. I've tried Mazdatrix on internet explorer, my computer and my phone, no luck yet. I order from them all the time just the site might be down or something. I've been reading about canisters failing and having carbon deposits get trapped in the purge valve causing it not to work. I blew it out with air and nothing came out. Since all the tests I've been reading say that it should hold vacuum for about 20 seconds and mine doesn't leads me to buying a new one. Maybe this is my vacuum leak causing rough idle too?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

More like over pressurized fuel system causing rough idle. Run the car with the canister removed to see if your problem goes away. Do not cap any lines off. They need to breath

Jere Urso

I ran it without the canister hooked up in the shop and nothing changed. My purge valve had a crack in the plastic and when I tested with air blowing through it, the air got trapped inside too quick and the valve basically exploded. So I just ordered a new purge valve from Mazdatrix and capped the line that induces the fuel vapor into the intake (I think it's that line, trying to follow the lines in my manual) because that caused a huge vacuum leak now that the purge valve was taken off. Is it okay to run the other 2 hoses to atmosphere? This is just temporary as the purge valve is literally in 3 pieces.

Jere Urso

This is what an exploded purge valve looks like by the way.