telescoping steering wheel
#1
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telescoping steering wheel
Sounds like a common issue. I had the same problem and found some good answers on the forum. Here's another fix which I used and seems to have worked quite nicely. Doesn't require to pull the whole steering assembly.
It is possible to remove the steering column sleeve and fix the telescoping rod in situ. This method has the added advantage of allowing repair to the grounding horn wire if it's been broken.
By then, the column is free, except for the one bolt holding the steering box to the frame. Pull gently and steadily on the steering column sleeve and it should come out. You can then work on the telescoping rods.
I found that drilling holes straight through them at the site of the previous plastic brackets provided enough holding area to use epoxy glue. It practically turns to plastic and is a nice substitue for the old plastic brackets.
To reassemble, reverse the steps but be careful of the rubber gasket in the steering box. Having a buddy guide the sleeve into it while you push from inside works well.
Here's another thing that I couldn't find mentionned anywhere: VERY IMPORTANT. When you put the sleeve back in, the ignition key must be in the lock and turned on. Otherwise the steering locking pin will prevent the sleeve from going all the way in and if you push too hard you'll wreck your repair. Turning the ignition on retracts the locking pin out of the way.
It is possible to remove the steering column sleeve and fix the telescoping rod in situ. This method has the added advantage of allowing repair to the grounding horn wire if it's been broken.
- Remove steering wheel
- Remove plastic covers around steering wheel and the one below including the air duct
- Disconnect all wires going to the ignition switch and the combination switch. Release all the holding brackets on the column
- Inside the hood, remove 2 bolts from steering box and loosen the third one a lot. This will allow some play but keep the box still while you're pulling the sleeve.
- Disconnect the Pitman arm from the centre link.
- Back in the vehicle, remove the two bolts that hold the steering column to the dash. They're behind the ignition switch, up high.
By then, the column is free, except for the one bolt holding the steering box to the frame. Pull gently and steadily on the steering column sleeve and it should come out. You can then work on the telescoping rods.
I found that drilling holes straight through them at the site of the previous plastic brackets provided enough holding area to use epoxy glue. It practically turns to plastic and is a nice substitue for the old plastic brackets.
To reassemble, reverse the steps but be careful of the rubber gasket in the steering box. Having a buddy guide the sleeve into it while you push from inside works well.
Here's another thing that I couldn't find mentionned anywhere: VERY IMPORTANT. When you put the sleeve back in, the ignition key must be in the lock and turned on. Otherwise the steering locking pin will prevent the sleeve from going all the way in and if you push too hard you'll wreck your repair. Turning the ignition on retracts the locking pin out of the way.
#3
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Why are you changing your turn signal? If it's because it's not shutting off after your turn, all you need to change is the plastic pins behind the steering wheel. They tend to break once your steering wheel starts telecoping.
You can still get that from Mazda dealership for about $6. I have the part number somewhere. I got it off one of the forums on this site.
You can still get that from Mazda dealership for about $6. I have the part number somewhere. I got it off one of the forums on this site.
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My turn signal just flops around, so I have a small piece of electrical taped rolled up and propped under it so its not constantly blinking a left turn. But I bet you're right about the plastic pins, let me know if you find that part number. Thanks again.
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