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Im also interested to hear some updates on how the car handles.
If they are no good then im building new coil towers in the back of my mazda and fitting FC rear overcoils so i can just buy something off the shelf
I am very pleased with my kit! Handles much better now but that is to be expected as I pretty much doubled my spring rates.
Install was straight forward and build quality was very good.
I will caution that if you end up using roll center spacers and 13' wheels you will need to use wheel spacers because the wheel will rub on the lower control arm.
Lol, I made them from some worn out brake rotors from a civic. tossed them on a lathe and removed all but the hub face and then re-drilled them for a 4x110 bolt pattern
I installed my camber plates from T3 in the spring and have not had any issues with them. I've been driving my car a lot during the summer too and raced in 2 autocross events.
Hey guys, this is an old post but just curious about the performance and comfort of the TTT front and rear coilovers.
This is my restore and I'm planning on buying both front and rear coilovers. This FB won't be used for any racing, but just to drive around and basically what I'm looking for is to lower it a bit and have a comfortable ride.
Hey guys, this is an old post but just curious about the performance and comfort of the TTT front and rear coilovers.
This is my restore and I'm planning on buying both front and rear coilovers. This FB won't be used for any racing, but just to drive around and basically what I'm looking for is to lower it a bit and have a comfortable ride.
Compared to GC the camber plates are not as good. Sleeves are tophats are fine. On my car I got sleeves and springs by themselves from speedway motors for the front and it was cheaper. I am running shorter 5" springs in the rear and KYB gas a just shocks for a fox body mustang
Have any of you guys tried out the T3 rear lower and upper trailing arms?? Do they bind? These are the last pieces I need to change on my car to have my whole suspension restored. I have been debating on getting the T3 arms or OEM Mazda. I am planning on switching over to all T3 suspension next year. Since the current setup is still not where I want it to be.
The research I did pretty much showed to stick with the OEM rubber bushed links. At the most, i think i read that it was ok to install the solid lower links as it is the upper ones that bind the most.
I have all of the TTT front suspension hardware on my FB (Control arms, tension rods and strut tower brace) and I am extremely happy, very nice hardware and good adjustability. Also no bushings.. all solid rod ends feels awesome. I am running Stance coilovers front/rear.
Have any of you guys tried out the T3 rear lower and upper trailing arms?? Do they bind? These are the last pieces I need to change on my car to have my whole suspension restored. I have been debating on getting the T3 arms or OEM Mazda. I am planning on switching over to all T3 suspension next year. Since the current setup is still not where I want it to be.
What is your current setup,have you lowered the car,what springs? Any driveability/vibration issues?
What is your current setup,have you lowered the car,what springs? Any driveability/vibration issues?
My current setup is racing beat springs, illumina struts in the front, kyb agx shocks in the rear, racing beat front swaybar, stock rear sway bar and all new bushings and tie rods from moog in the front. I just need to change the rear links to have everthing refreshed on the suspesion. But I feel like the car still handels bad and I get a lot of of body roll on turns.
I have the T3 front coilover struts installed. Did not go with rear coilovers as rear shock tower is not strong enough to handle rear corner weights.
Front struts are great - I had to use spacers under shock towers (from T3) to get to desired ride height. Had to fab an adapter shim to get brake line retaining clip to hold - small issue easily resolved. Larger diameter Koni shocks come with the struts and they work well on track. Use Ground Control caster/camber plates. Use Illumina race adjustables in the rear. With a trilink / panhard setup in rear I use spring rates of 425 lb/in front, 275 lb/in rear. Large dia front swaybar, no rear swaybar. Car is very neutral on track.
I bought the T3 front weld on setup, but copied their style by buying parts myself online (far less than half price), I also made my own drop brackets in about 30mins but I have the advantage of being a machinist and having a tonne of machines like a flowjet and mills etc at my disposal..
I to cannot say enough about Gabriel and his customer service.. answered a lot of my questions and was always prompt even when I said I was making my own version of the rears...
being as mine is about 8mths form being on the road if all goes well i cant speak for how they ride.. but I sure liked how it sat when I was trying to see how it leveled out for wheel fitment....
I made the drop mounts, the rears I pieced together from online, the top hates I made myself, the camber roll centers I made (pictured with brake pic - also designed and made my own BBK too )... fronts was the T3 kit...
I havent made or added anything else... I did have to turn down the shaft on my shocks to fit the camber plates (which Gabriel said I would have to)
I made the drop mounts, the rears I pieced together from online, the top hates I made myself, the camber roll centers I made (pictured with brake pic - also designed and made my own BBK too )... fronts was the T3 kit...
I havent made or added anything else... I did have to turn down the shaft on my shocks to fit the camber plates (which Gabriel said I would have to)
The camber roll center pieces, I call them an RCA (Roll Center Adjuster) but I could see how that could be confused as Rear control arm. I like the BBK you did, I made one similar from steel.
05-10-14, 12:57 PM
